markrazz

ok ..so ive spent a good 6 hours now onthis damm engine ..the 351 has a holley 4160 carb ive found out (ty to forum)..i changed the gas filters,new platinium plugs,oil-filter change.reset idle to run right..
started up first turn and purred perfect..then i put it in gear,it drove a bit then stalled ..i started and restarted about 10 time to get it back in the parking spot.,. it just doesnt seem to want to drive..im assuming the gas is getting there since it runs and revs-up nicely and the jets are spraying gass when i hand rev the carb..spark must be good for same reson..now im not sure what else to check..i was thinkin maybe a vacuum leak but the carb has all the extra holes closed off..im gettin a little frustrated and not sure what else to try..anyone

nualln

check and see if the choke is closed. That would cause it to run ok at first, but once you got warmed up, it would cause it to stall.

It did it to me once.

73Cleveland

Checking to make sure the choke is open is the first place to start. A good indication of it not being open would be big clouds of black smoke.

If it idles smooth, it's probably not a vacume leak.

Scott H.

That is one hell-of-a smart car. It's trying to tell you to quit dicking with the engine and fix the brakes!!!

If it isn't your choke butterfly stuck closed then there are a few other things:

When you put it in gear, how low does the idle go? Any chance you've got a vacuum gauge you can throw on the engine. You should see steady vacuum at least 18" Hg at idle.

If it accelerates well in neutral but won't when it's in gear, it may not even be the engine. You need to do a compression check and a vacuum test to see what the mechanical state of the engine is.

Post your wet and dry compression test results, and your vacuum readings. Then we can give you a better direction to follow.

BTW: to do a correct compression test you need a fully warmed engine. Then with coil disconnected hold the throttle wide open and crank the engine 5 revolutions with the compression tester screwed into the spark plug hole (same test for each individual cylinder). Wet test is performed the same way, only squirt a little engine oil in the cylinder and rotate it a couple of times before hooking up you compression gauge. The results will tell you ring and valve wear.

Vacuum gauge will tell you valve problems, rich mixture/retarded timing, and how much empty space there is between the ears

markrazz

THE guy i bought the car basiccaly had bought this to rebuild the top end and teach his son the ropes..the heads ect. have all been done over the last few years so im assuming that they should be above par still..i did notice all the plugs where white when i replaced them so its running way lean..im thinkin it might be a vacuum or distrributer problem so i will get a vacuum hose tommorr and check the hoses.
i renember spraaying carb cleaner around my hoses,carb,ect on my jeep when we put in a new carb..it revved real high where the leak was so i will try this poor mans method first thing and maybe find a easy leak .i took a pic of my engine to get some input on the aftermarket parts,distributer,ect. so id know what kind of points ect to replace if someone could help me post it..ty

1970 mach1

You also need to check timing, you will be able to rev engine with timing off, but once in gear car will fall flat on it's face if poorly timed or stretched timing chain.