Question for those with 65 disc brakes

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08-07-2009, 09:37 AM

#11

4R RUSH

1st Gear Member

Thread Starter

Join Date: Feb 2008

Location: California

Posts: 114

I checked all the plumbing and it is correct. I have to still check the vacuum but I have a pretty mild cam( edelbrock performer) so I dont think that is the issue. I will check the vacuum this weekend. I just think that a 7 inch booster may not be really big enough. I will also try different(maybe a softer compound) pad later. I dont think that I can even lock up the brakes unless maybe using both feet.

08-07-2009, 10:13 AM

#12

2+2GT

6th Gear Member

Join Date: May 2009

Location: PA

Posts: 5,232

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4R RUSH

Well after a whopping couple of hundred miles I have noticed that my disc brakes just aren't up to par. They require alot of pedal pressure to stop. I originally had 4 drum brakes which were converted to SSBC fronts and I have wilwood brakes on my 9 Inch rear.
Everything is new with a proportioning valve on rear. I thought that they just needed to be broken in but they just arent that good.
They have been bled( bench and regular) and pedal pressure is fine.

I read something from "Mustang Steve" about a pedal modification and am wondering if this would help. I have power brakes( I think 7 inch boster with 1 inch piston with dual master). Do you guys have good stopping power with a stock pedal. Let me know your thoughts

Disc brakes require more pressure than drums, something the magazines and even brake suppliers often don't tell you, so you were smart to get power boost.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4R RUSH

I have stock manual K/H disc on my 66, and locking the wheels is no problem, even with ONE foot, so your booster is the problem. The straight-line conversion type boosters are a continual problem, basically they are usually just lame.

The only booster I would consider for a 64-66 is the original Bendix type. You can get them with single or modern dual master, and you can lock the wheels with your toe if you want to.

Last edited by 2+2GT; 08-07-2009 at 10:16 AM.

08-07-2009, 10:32 AM

#13

fakesnakes

4th Gear Member

Join Date: Sep 2008

Location: Connecticut

Posts: 1,839

That master cylinder bowl is for front disc/rear drum. Disc brakes need a larger volume of fluid. However, in most applications it will work. I also don't think it is your vacuum. I would say the MC bore is too large and 15/16" would be better, but I would think SSBC would select the right bore for the application. Didn't you get a new distribution block with the upgrade? There is a good chance it is keeping fluid from the rear brakes. I would replace the block with either the correct one for a disc/disc application or use a tee for the front brakes and an adjustable pv for the rear.

08-07-2009, 11:03 AM

#14

4R RUSH

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Join Date: Feb 2008

Location: California

Posts: 114

08-07-2009, 11:22 AM

#15

2+2GT

6th Gear Member

Join Date: May 2009

Location: PA

Posts: 5,232

I am running the stock distribution block with a proportioning valve( adjustable ) to the rear. I have the valve set in the middle by counting the number of turns. I know this is approximate but I havent been able to really lock it up to adjust where the rears come on.

Try this: Find a smooth gravel drive or road. Stop with increasing pedal effort until you lock front or rear. Adjust until the front locks slightly before the rear. This is way less violent than doing it on asphalt.

The booster is from a kit I got from SSBC.

That would be the lame booster I referred to. The one I posted, with dual master (which BTW has big enough reservior for disc or drum) would work far better.