Clear up Start, & Run.
#1
Clear up Start, & Run.
I was working on my car yesterday, trying to finally get it running again (doing the efi swap). First I was having trouble with it not having any spark, then it not doing anything. It ended up being that I had the solenoid just on top of the car not bolted on, also had the wires wrong. I thought they were passenger to driver side 1-8. ended up being pass. side 1-4 driver side5-8. Good thing for google. Too bad I didn't check earlier. Now it cranks and wants to start but as soon as I let go of the key it will turn off. Can anybody define let me know which is the key on and which is constant. I thought start was just to turn it on no power only when the key is triggered (key on). Run keep it on, constant. Crank same as start. Am I right?
#2
#3
as addition to 2+2's wiring diagram link.
I have no idea about EFI in those cars. if your ignition system is still the same then it seems you have no wire from ignition switch to coil+
If you have the cable from 'I' port of selonoid going to coil+ then this is why it's starting during crank, but not when the key is on ignition position (if the cable from switch to coil+ is missing). Maybe your resistor needs bypassing?
what on the ignition system was changed?
Kalli
I have no idea about EFI in those cars. if your ignition system is still the same then it seems you have no wire from ignition switch to coil+
If you have the cable from 'I' port of selonoid going to coil+ then this is why it's starting during crank, but not when the key is on ignition position (if the cable from switch to coil+ is missing). Maybe your resistor needs bypassing?
what on the ignition system was changed?
Kalli
Last edited by kalli; 08-10-2009 at 04:29 AM.
#5
The engine,trans, wiring, is from a 90 mustang 5.0. the distributor is the original. After I wired the plugs up using pass1-4 driver 5-6 using 13726548 it works. I am using the original wire from my 65 connecting to the 90. kalli what resistor are you talking about. Right now I don't have the wire going to the coil of the 65 connected.
#6
i'm unsure with what you mean by:
Right now I don't have the wire going to the coil of the 65 connected
Basically IU have no idea about EFI, but I thought the ignition is regulated with computer. not stock ...
Anyway the resistor I am talking about is a normal wire but it has high resistance.
you need the wire from ignition switch connected to coil+
If you have a voltmeter, just check with ignition switch on. You should have at least 8V+ at coil+ measured against battery-
Kalli
Right now I don't have the wire going to the coil of the 65 connected
Basically IU have no idea about EFI, but I thought the ignition is regulated with computer. not stock ...
Anyway the resistor I am talking about is a normal wire but it has high resistance.
you need the wire from ignition switch connected to coil+
If you have a voltmeter, just check with ignition switch on. You should have at least 8V+ at coil+ measured against battery-
Kalli
#7
If you are using the stock harness for the EFI, check the wires coming off the solenoid. They will be fusible links, and what you are describing with the engine shutting off after releasing the key from the start position is what those do when they burn through. Its common in later Fords to burn them, most times it isnt doing anything different. If you dont have fusible links (it will be printed on the wire) then you dont have a good connection to the ignition system from one of those wires that would have been a fusible link.
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