Converting to Manual Steering
#1
Converting to Manual Steering
Ok so my power steering is giving me MORE problems (started leaking from control valve now, but I think tightening the hose may have fixed it...) so I am seriously considering taking out my power steering and converting to manual. Now I have a number of questions:
1. Am I good if I just buy the manual steering converter piece to replace the control valve? Or is getting a manual centerlink and pitman a better route? There does look like there is a big difference between the pitmans, but whether or not they perform the same I don't know... EDIT: I can pick up a manual steering adapter from a local mustang shop for $135 (or so says their '07 catalogue), which sounds pretty good considering i've only found them online for 150-165, plus 10-15 bucks shipping. I have to pay tax locally, but its still way cheaper... Getting a new centerlink and pitman comes out to close to 200 bucks... right now I'm leaning towards the adapter.
2. Will it be a problem having a PS idler arm? Last week I ordered a new idler arm and tie rods and got the PS idler. There didn't look like there was much of a difference between the PS and MS versions, just a taller bushing on the PS version I believe.
3. What's the best (and hopefully inexpensive) converter to get if they are good enough?
I'm really just tired of this power steering crap and don't have the money to overhaul everything to the point that it works perfectly (yet will probably still leak in a couple of years). I need to get my car up to college in september and need this problem taken care of and I honestly think manual steering is safer than the power steering because the power steering is so loose, no road feel.
I also know that a roller idler arm is an option for me as well, but seeing as I just bought a new idler arm that will be here in a day or two I can't justify upgrading that right now lol.
Any help is appreciated!
1. Am I good if I just buy the manual steering converter piece to replace the control valve? Or is getting a manual centerlink and pitman a better route? There does look like there is a big difference between the pitmans, but whether or not they perform the same I don't know... EDIT: I can pick up a manual steering adapter from a local mustang shop for $135 (or so says their '07 catalogue), which sounds pretty good considering i've only found them online for 150-165, plus 10-15 bucks shipping. I have to pay tax locally, but its still way cheaper... Getting a new centerlink and pitman comes out to close to 200 bucks... right now I'm leaning towards the adapter.
2. Will it be a problem having a PS idler arm? Last week I ordered a new idler arm and tie rods and got the PS idler. There didn't look like there was much of a difference between the PS and MS versions, just a taller bushing on the PS version I believe.
3. What's the best (and hopefully inexpensive) converter to get if they are good enough?
I'm really just tired of this power steering crap and don't have the money to overhaul everything to the point that it works perfectly (yet will probably still leak in a couple of years). I need to get my car up to college in september and need this problem taken care of and I honestly think manual steering is safer than the power steering because the power steering is so loose, no road feel.
I also know that a roller idler arm is an option for me as well, but seeing as I just bought a new idler arm that will be here in a day or two I can't justify upgrading that right now lol.
Any help is appreciated!
Last edited by 4reboy; 08-11-2009 at 06:44 PM.
#2
Yes, I know all that Chokostang, you have put the same exact post in another thread of mine. I've already tried to fix my power steering, this thread is about converting it to manual, not fixing what I have.
#3
Converting to the manual steering parts would be ideal, but you can get away with just getting the adaptor that replaces the control valve. In the end, it's up to you. You have to decide if you want to spend the extra money and time.
#4
Thanks tad, I just don't know what the best route would be and if it would make THAT big of a difference. Using a power steering idler arm won't hurt it right? they look near identical to me...
I just need to get it rolling and ideally I will just save up a ton of money and put on some rack and pinion So the $135 conversion piece might be ideal for now...
It's all just a work in progress right? haha
I just need to get it rolling and ideally I will just save up a ton of money and put on some rack and pinion So the $135 conversion piece might be ideal for now...
It's all just a work in progress right? haha
#5
Idler Arm
The idler arms are basically the same between manual and power - except the diameter of the hole through the bushing.
Both manual and power center links have a stud on the end that goes through the bushing on the idler, but the diameter of the stud is different. I don't remember which is which, off-hand, but you may find that the fit is too loose or to big to go in if you get the wrong part.
Both manual and power center links have a stud on the end that goes through the bushing on the idler, but the diameter of the stud is different. I don't remember which is which, off-hand, but you may find that the fit is too loose or to big to go in if you get the wrong part.
#6
The idler arms are basically the same between manual and power - except the diameter of the hole through the bushing.
Both manual and power center links have a stud on the end that goes through the bushing on the idler, but the diameter of the stud is different. I don't remember which is which, off-hand, but you may find that the fit is too loose or to big to go in if you get the wrong part.
Both manual and power center links have a stud on the end that goes through the bushing on the idler, but the diameter of the stud is different. I don't remember which is which, off-hand, but you may find that the fit is too loose or to big to go in if you get the wrong part.
#7
#8
I was very happy converting to MS. I have never regretted it.
It should be as simple as switching the drag link over to the MS conversion.
I replaced my gearbox with a flaming river gear box as well. You might consider rebuilding your original box if there is much play in the system.
in reality the conversion is as simple as removing the old stuff and the control valve and placing the conversion kit in its place.
-Gun
It should be as simple as switching the drag link over to the MS conversion.
I replaced my gearbox with a flaming river gear box as well. You might consider rebuilding your original box if there is much play in the system.
in reality the conversion is as simple as removing the old stuff and the control valve and placing the conversion kit in its place.
-Gun
#9
I would get a MS pitman arm and drag link if you are going to swap out. It will be lighter, lest cluttered, and probably more reactive. It really is not a hard install, but get a pitman arm puller That really makes the job easier! Remember to get the front end aligned after you are done.
#10
I think what I'll be doing is getting the converter piece for now, and just save up some money towards some rack and pinion!!!
I just need my car rolling again. Hopefully my mustang shop will honor my return of my power steering cylinder, then I'll use that money for a converter piece, new motor mount, and probably a few other things. If I have to spend it all right then and there I may just get the new center link with pitman arm.
I'll probably check my steering box screw again, I tightened it about 2 years ago and think I did it right because no more play came back, but I just want to check it again, maybe I can get it tighter without causing drag.
I just need my car rolling again. Hopefully my mustang shop will honor my return of my power steering cylinder, then I'll use that money for a converter piece, new motor mount, and probably a few other things. If I have to spend it all right then and there I may just get the new center link with pitman arm.
I'll probably check my steering box screw again, I tightened it about 2 years ago and think I did it right because no more play came back, but I just want to check it again, maybe I can get it tighter without causing drag.
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