Full Quarter Panel Replace
#1
Full Quarter Panel Replace
I am new to this forum and wanted to see if I could get your opinion as to how hard it really is to install new full quarter panels on a 1968 mustang. I am in the process of sanding down all of the parts that will be painted and have these nasty quarters that are an eye sore. If they are not too hard to do I would like to do it myself to keep costs down on the project. Also, what all tools are necessary. Note: not building a show car, just a nice daily driver.
Thanks,
Nathan
Thanks,
Nathan
#2
You might want to check out this link to a thread. There area lot of pics to see. Do you need to replace the whole panel or just partial areas of one?
https://mustangforums.com/forum/clas...g-opening.html
You can also do a search here using "quarter panel"
https://mustangforums.com/forum/clas...g-opening.html
You can also do a search here using "quarter panel"
Last edited by photocliff; 08-31-2009 at 01:02 AM.
#3
Your skill level is the most important factor but generally speaking quarter panels are not a good project for the first timer. You might want to check with some local body shops and see what they would be willing to do just the quarters for. A good bodyman might be willing to do 2 quarters in a couple of days for some quick cash.
#4
Nathan, you'll need special drills or spot weld cutters (I prefer the drill) a bunch of little C clap style Vise-Grips, a few Klick Pins, a sheet metal punch to make holes for rose welds, a hand grinder to smooth the welds, and most importantly, a MIG welder and the ability to weld sheetmetal with it.
If you do this, make sure you do the worst side first, and support the car at the rear torque box, and at the back end. The outer skin was 20% of the design strength of the rear, so with the skin off it'll sag. If the above list and this photo don't scare you, you might have a shot.
If you do this, make sure you do the worst side first, and support the car at the rear torque box, and at the back end. The outer skin was 20% of the design strength of the rear, so with the skin off it'll sag. If the above list and this photo don't scare you, you might have a shot.
#5
Nathan, you'll need special drills or spot weld cutters (I prefer the drill) a bunch of little C clap style Vise-Grips, a few Klick Pins, a sheet metal punch to make holes for rose welds, a hand grinder to smooth the welds, and most importantly, a MIG welder and the ability to weld sheetmetal with it.
If you do this, make sure you do the worst side first, and support the car at the rear torque box, and at the back end. The outer skin was 20% of the design strength of the rear, so with the skin off it'll sag. If the above list and this photo don't scare you, you might have a shot.
If you do this, make sure you do the worst side first, and support the car at the rear torque box, and at the back end. The outer skin was 20% of the design strength of the rear, so with the skin off it'll sag. If the above list and this photo don't scare you, you might have a shot.
Makes me wonder if body shops would know to do that or if we should tell them.
#8
I'm currently in the process of replacing a full quarter on my 66. Completed the trunk last month. This is my first attempt. Patience and a tape measure is the most important tool. Do allot of reading and studying before you take this on. I've turned my own wrenches most of my life and this is not difficult but very time consuming, something you can not rush. Be very careful if you take it to a shop, cuz shops will take short cuts and rivot on a panel, throw on some bondo, paint, and call it beautiful. The quarter I'm replacing is one a shop did with the previous owner. If you have reasonable welding skills and a good 110 welder, and a compressor, piece of cake. As for a quote, if you have the tools, you can screw it up 3 times over before you achieve a shop cost. The quote out west is nearly $900 per side, for a patch, no a full panel. BTW, carefully measure your replacement panels before you buy them. I had to reorder my down panel 3 times for a got a proper panel; it was short by nearly 1/2 in.
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