Would I notice a big difference with GT40 heads?
09-10-2009, 01:33 PM
#23
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if your putting money in them...look for some procomps and work them over...
For the price of the worked over 40's you can have a set of 185/210's... that's bang for your buck
point of reference look in the new MMFF they put 1k into a 302 and made 400hp...that's machining, parts, and labor....October 2009 issue, Vol 22 No 10.
For the price of the worked over 40's you can have a set of 185/210's... that's bang for your buck
point of reference look in the new MMFF they put 1k into a 302 and made 400hp...that's machining, parts, and labor....October 2009 issue, Vol 22 No 10.
Last edited by USMCrebel; 09-10-2009 at 01:43 PM.
09-10-2009, 04:32 PM
#25
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I just came back from taking a look at a EFI 302 and came home with a 302 roller block. It had issues with the crank, but didn't spin a bearing. It was $25 so not a lot invested.
He had the 351 heads, but after listening to discussions about the money needed to get them to where they would make a difference I decided to pass.
I will call the other person about the GT40's.
He had the 351 heads, but after listening to discussions about the money needed to get them to where they would make a difference I decided to pass.
I will call the other person about the GT40's.
09-10-2009, 05:33 PM
#26
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Do most places have headers for the GT 40 and GT 40P heads for a '65 auto, or is that going to be a hard/odd ball item to get?
Basically which heads are the least PITA to get headers for and have the least fitment problems?
Lynn
Basically which heads are the least PITA to get headers for and have the least fitment problems?
Lynn
Last edited by LynnBob Mustang; 09-10-2009 at 06:31 PM.
09-10-2009, 10:05 PM
#27
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09-11-2009, 06:54 PM
#29
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Picked up the GT40 heads with new head gaskets for $195 today and in the process a Blue Point engine stand for $35. Heads are complete and in good shape. The seller has oodles of Ford small block parts and said he would help me out when I got going on my engine build. 
09-11-2009, 10:46 PM
#30
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sounds good! now strip them down, do some careful port work with a dremel or die grinder under the heads of the valves, drop them off at your local machine shop and have a valve job and resurface. thats when you should go ahead and put some stiffer springs and screw-in studs and guideplates too.
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