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Wheels and Ride Height

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Old 06-19-2010, 05:26 PM   #81
chillininnh
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They are bullitt style wheels I bought on fleabay. I think I paid about $650 for them.
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Old 08-20-2010, 09:27 PM   #82
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1967 289 coupe v8
not sure about the wheels ill update soon, i like the white on 'em
ride height: im new, where do i measure it from. ground to ???
originally was olive green was repainted before i bought it to this aqua color, i like that dark blue color some one had on the first page though needs a paint job anyway :P.

~before restoration
~always a go car never a show car
~any suggestions for a color?
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Old 08-20-2010, 09:31 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MustangFTW View Post
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1967 289 coupe v8
not sure about the wheels ill update soon, i like the white on 'em
ride height: im new, where do i measure it from. ground to ???
originally was olive green was repainted before i bought it to this aqua color, i like that dark blue color some one had on the first page though needs a paint job anyway :P.

~before restoration
~always a go car never a show car
~any suggestions for a color?
pic didnt load for some reason here ya and its a huge pic
http://www.imgupload.org/images/777_...00818_2005.jpg
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Old 08-31-2010, 08:02 AM   #84
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Default 66' Conv.

Wheels: Vintage Wheel Works v50 - 15x7
Tires: 215/60/15 Front 225/60/15 Rear
Suspension: 1" cut front springs - stock rear (Rear diff/springs and discs are a later project)

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Old 09-12-2010, 08:32 AM   #85
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How do you choose your backspace? One manufacturer says it should be 4.25, another 4.75 for a 17x8 wheel. They can't both be right -can they?? How does offset play into the backspace discussion? I'm selecting wheels for a 67 FB now and have 1" drop spring in front, all other components heavier duty, but stock. I don't want to have 5-6 inches of air above the tread, especially on the rear. Thinking of the 17x8 Coys "67" wheels, with 245/45/17 front and rear. Advice and experiences appreciated.
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Old 09-12-2010, 12:45 PM   #86
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Offset and backspacing are related, though you also need to know the wheel width (which is measured inside, between the bead seats) and overall flange thickness(es).

Roughly for alloy wheels,
[Offset] = [Backspacing] - 0.5 * ([WheelWidth] + 1")


For steel wheels you might want to use 3/4" instead of 1" in the above formula, for heavy alloy wheels maybe a bit more than 1".

Backspacing and offset don't directly affect ride height unless a bad choice makes you lift the car just to keep the tires out of the sheetmetal when you add passengers or drive over bumps.


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Old 09-13-2010, 08:24 PM   #87
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In making a selection then, I need to know both backspace and offset, or at least know if the offset has been included in the advertised BS? I also gather that it would be better to err on the side of too much BS and be able to use a spacer to correct rather than too little and have the wheel too far out and nothing to do to fix it. Trying to learn...
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Old 09-14-2010, 06:08 AM   #88
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Three main variables here. Wheel width, backspacing, and offset. If you know any two you can determine the third (with a little math). Most times, flange thickness does not vary enough to matter.

Offset is not a separate kind of wheel dimension that is either included or not included in a backspace number.

Backspacing is a measurement between two "hard points" on the wheel, but I think it is really a consequence of wheel width and offset (offset is a more useful thing to know when front suspension geometry is being developed). However, backspacing tends to be more useful when you're trying to physically fit wider or otherwise nonstandard wheels to an existing car.


I would not ever plan on using a spacer just to make a particular wheel fit before I bought it. That's a whole other can of worms involving stud length and nut thread engagement, strength, wheel centering, etc. If I ended up needing one for any unexpected reason I'd be unwilling to go much thicker than 1/8". If you think it's going to be close, double check all of your measurements, and when you think you've measured enough clearance points, go back and look for a few more.

If your new front wheels have offset that's much different from the offset on the OE wheels, they can affect the way the car drives or how it behaves under heavy braking.


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Old 10-12-2010, 03:42 PM   #89
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Alot of nice cars right there!
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Old 10-13-2010, 01:45 AM   #90
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OPR track roller control arms, track perches 1" 560lb springs 1/2 coil cut, 4.5 leafs reverse eye grab a trak 1.5" shelby drop, 70' spindles, baer bump. kit monte carlo bar, tinman conn. soon gas a just front, stock rear 1.125" front sway bar, 70" manual steering linkage
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2006 GT wheels
1.5" Spacers all around
Continental Extreme Contact DW tires 235/45/17
stock everything else
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Old 10-15-2010, 11:55 AM   #91
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OK Guys, I'm new to all of this so please excuse my ignorance. My 69 Mach will be driveway next week. WHAT IS the Shelby drop
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Old 10-15-2010, 06:23 PM   #92
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It's not a ride height drop, per se. It's an upper control arm relocation where the chassis attachment of the UCA is moved down and sometimes rearward. The purpose is to provide front suspension geometry that is more favorable to hard cornering, when otherwise the body roll has you cornering on the outer shoulder (and even down into the sidewall) of the outside front tire.

There is a slight lowering of the front of the car that is incidental.


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'10 Legacy 2.5GT, 6M (hers)
'01 Maxima 20AE, 5M (spare, winter driver)

Gone but not forgotten dep't: '95 Mazda 626, V6/5M; '79 Chevy Malibu, 4M/5M; '87 Maxima, 5M; '72 Ford Pinto, 4M; '64 Dodge V8/3A . . .


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Old 10-16-2010, 08:07 AM   #93
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Thanks for clearing that uo for me Norm. Definately something to consider
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Old 11-29-2010, 10:33 PM   #94
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Will the 2008 Bullitt wheels fit on a 67/68 fastback 5 lug? Thanks, David
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Old 11-30-2010, 05:42 AM   #95
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The bolt pattern is the same, but the offset is WAAYYY different.

OE wheels for most 1960's cars had offset close to zero. The 2008 18 x 8.5 Mustang wheel has +50mm offset (about 2"). Backspacing would be over 3" more than what's on the OE 14 x 6 wheel.

People have been known to run a large spacer in order to use late-model wheels, but that's a poor band-aid for anything that actually gets driven. OK for a trailered show car.

Bullitt-style wheels can be found in offsets that are "friendly" to 1960's cars in 17" and larger diameters if you look around.


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'08 GT coupe, 5M, suspension unstockish (mine)
'10 Legacy 2.5GT, 6M (hers)
'01 Maxima 20AE, 5M (spare, winter driver)

Gone but not forgotten dep't: '95 Mazda 626, V6/5M; '79 Chevy Malibu, 4M/5M; '87 Maxima, 5M; '72 Ford Pinto, 4M; '64 Dodge V8/3A . . .

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Old 11-30-2010, 06:56 AM   #96
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That is what I was afraid of. I found a set of wheels for cheap and just knew they would not be close. Thanks
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Old 12-02-2010, 08:38 PM   #97
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Back has alot of air in the air shocks thats the way my dad like it and he was driving it.

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Heres the rear ride height i run it at quarters arent rolled so rubs on high ways over big bumps, rolling them would fix it.
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Heres how close the fronts are soon after i put the 67 lower control arm adj brackets in so i gained about a half an inch so plenty of room
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Old 12-02-2010, 08:54 PM   #98
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Ohh sorry for mine above I have 620 1 inch drop coils in the front with shelby upper control arm drop, running Grenada disk kit from open tracker racing their spindles have a little different geometry then normal Grenada spindles i think. For this i would recommend Lower control arm camber adj. kit. The rear is stock v8 leafs with air shocks altho i only raise it about 1/2 to 1 inch. The wheels are vintage wheel works 16 inch rims and tires for the front are 225 50 16 and backs are 245 50 16. The back tires i think are a little to wide if you plan to drive the car alot i would not go that wide as they rub, rolling the quarters might fix this tho.
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Old 12-07-2010, 06:42 PM   #99
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Thats a great looking coupe. I like the color, I would advise removing the air shocks. The area where the upper shock mounts is not designed to support weight and can bust through into the trunk. They need to be replaced with some good gas shocks. If you need it to sit a little higher in the rear get some of these slightly extended shackles. I have them on my car. They raise the rear about 5/8 of an inch, and stay hidden behind the rear valance.

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Old 12-08-2010, 12:35 PM   #100
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[QUOTE=tx65coupe;7323551]Thats a great looking coupe. I like the color, I would advise removing the air shocks. The area where the upper shock mounts is not designed to support weight and can bust through into the trunk. They need to be replaced with some good gas shocks. If you need it to sit a little higher in the rear get some of these slightly extended shackles. I have them on my car. They raise the rear about 5/8 of an inch, and stay hidden behind the rear valance.

Ya i want to lower it. Have the explorer rear now just needs to be cut and ill gain enough room to drop the rear the 2 inchs i want. Had good gas shocks in it but i drive the **** out of it and driving on the high way it would rub so put the air shocks in to fix for now. College seems to take all my money. Hopefully i can get some of it done this winter.
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Old 12-08-2010, 12:35 PM
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