Need help with instrument bezel
10-03-2009, 10:25 PM
#1
2nd Gear Member
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Join Date: Jul 2007
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Posts: 281
Need help with instrument bezel
I want the original gauges for the 67-67 but I can't find them anywhere. I only found some for the 65-66 model. And do the gauges come with the wiring?
The reason I want new ones is because the speedometer and the fuel gauge aren't accurate. When I would fill up the tank the fuel gauge would only move half way. I thought it was the float(floater?) that goes in the tank but that wasn't it. If I don't need new gauges what can it be?
Last edited by xian67; 10-03-2009 at 11:22 PM.
10-04-2009, 01:46 AM
#2
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10-04-2009, 05:47 AM
#3
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Location: Cork, Ireland
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when the fuel gauge doesn't show correctly it could be the sender in the tank or the connections simply corroded.
check the connection at the fuel sender first of all. this is out in the open and craps up first
. disconnect that cable at tank with ignition on. you should show either show full or totally empty.
then put that cable directly to ground on chassis or tank. it should now show the complete opposite.
If that's the case the fuel gauge is ok. if not then it's either gauge or the cable leading to it having a bad connection somwhere
a speeedo showing too much or too little can be caused by improper gearing ration for the driven and drive speedo gear in trans. maybe someone changed rear axle ration that will throw it off.
So if your speedo is too slow or too quick the problem is 99% not the speedo itself.
If it doesn't work at all make sure that the speedo cable isn't broken. drive a few meters with speedo off and look at the speedo cable. does the inside turn?
what I'm saying is. don't spend any money on speedo/tankgauge repair. I'm nearly certain they are ok. one of them is mechanical, the other electric
check the connection at the fuel sender first of all. this is out in the open and craps up first
. disconnect that cable at tank with ignition on. you should show either show full or totally empty.
then put that cable directly to ground on chassis or tank. it should now show the complete opposite.
If that's the case the fuel gauge is ok. if not then it's either gauge or the cable leading to it having a bad connection somwhere
a speeedo showing too much or too little can be caused by improper gearing ration for the driven and drive speedo gear in trans. maybe someone changed rear axle ration that will throw it off.
So if your speedo is too slow or too quick the problem is 99% not the speedo itself.
If it doesn't work at all make sure that the speedo cable isn't broken. drive a few meters with speedo off and look at the speedo cable. does the inside turn?
what I'm saying is. don't spend any money on speedo/tankgauge repair. I'm nearly certain they are ok. one of them is mechanical, the other electric
Last edited by kalli; 10-04-2009 at 05:54 AM.
10-04-2009, 11:24 AM
#5
6th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 5,232
when the fuel gauge doesn't show correctly it could be the sender in the tank or the connections simply corroded.
check the connection at the fuel sender first of all. this is out in the open and craps up first
. disconnect that cable at tank with ignition on. you should show either show full or totally empty.
then put that cable directly to ground on chassis or tank. it should now show the complete opposite.
If that's the case the fuel gauge is ok. if not then it's either gauge or the cable leading to it having a bad connection somwhere
check the connection at the fuel sender first of all. this is out in the open and craps up first
. disconnect that cable at tank with ignition on. you should show either show full or totally empty.
then put that cable directly to ground on chassis or tank. it should now show the complete opposite.
If that's the case the fuel gauge is ok. if not then it's either gauge or the cable leading to it having a bad connection somwhere
10-04-2009, 01:21 PM
#6
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Cork, Ireland
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As I have mentioned elsewhere, none of the current crop of repro fuel senders have the right Ω values for E and F, especially at E. I have talked to Dan at Glazier Nolan, and he's working with one of the manufacturers to get them made properly. So far, better but not ready.
10-04-2009, 03:15 PM
#7
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Full is 0Ω, so adding a resistor to fix E would screw that up. The problem is incorrect number of windings on the rheostat, and incorrect taper to account for the non-flat bottom of the tank.
10-04-2009, 04:51 PM
#8
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Arizona
Posts: 300
I believe 0 Ohms is over full.
The range is 70 - 10 if I recall correctly.
Depending on the range of the sender it may be possible to correct by putting a resistor in parallel to the sender. This is what worked on my temp sender.
The range is 70 - 10 if I recall correctly.
Depending on the range of the sender it may be possible to correct by putting a resistor in parallel to the sender. This is what worked on my temp sender.
10-04-2009, 06:18 PM
#9
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: PA
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You may be right about the Ω range, I only know the repros from all sources are badly done in this regard. None even come close to OEM.
10-04-2009, 06:45 PM
#10
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Orange County, CA
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Just recently I had my mechanic replace the fuel tank and sending unit on my '68 FB. I went with the more expensive stainless sending unit. He said it Ohm'd out correctly, but the fuel gauge wasn't registering properly. He tried adjusting the float but couldn't seem to get it right. It shows "empty" a lot sooner than it should. It sits at "F" when the tank si full. This might be pretty vague, but anyone know where the problem might lie?