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Our '65 coupe project, so it begins (Lots of pics)

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Old 06-12-2012, 03:34 PM   #201
LynnBob Mustang
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TB has been welded back together and painted inside and top outside...
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Patch on outer area has been fixed.
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Lynn
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'99 GT automatic
CDC Shaker scoop, K&N Filter
MAC cat back
Max Speed 1 ½” Lowering springs
KYB GR2 shocks and struts
Cobra front brakes

'65 Mustang coupe in progress
http://mustangforums.com/forum/class...s-of-pics.html
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Old 06-18-2012, 09:01 PM   #202
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Trunk almost done.
I decided to paint over the trunk bed coat with the Vintage Burgundy.
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It took 4 cans of Rainbow paint from CJ Pony's to do this.
I just got to go back over the undercoat with a fresh coat.
Lynn
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CDC Shaker scoop, K&N Filter
MAC cat back
Max Speed 1 ½” Lowering springs
KYB GR2 shocks and struts
Cobra front brakes

'65 Mustang coupe in progress
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Old 06-18-2012, 09:09 PM   #203
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Looks great. I like your attention to detail
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Old 06-19-2012, 08:18 AM   #204
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Thanks!!!
Lynn
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'99 GT automatic
CDC Shaker scoop, K&N Filter
MAC cat back
Max Speed 1 ½” Lowering springs
KYB GR2 shocks and struts
Cobra front brakes

'65 Mustang coupe in progress
http://mustangforums.com/forum/class...s-of-pics.html
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Old 06-19-2012, 02:05 PM   #205
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Very nice! I can remember seeing a Burgundy Coupe on the showroom floor that my brother almost bought brand new. Still love that color.
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Old 06-20-2012, 09:52 AM   #206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LynnBob Mustang View Post
Update...
I got the left quarter panel almost welded in now.
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I got to finish the sail panel area and do the inside trunk area.

Lynn
You are doing a great job on the build!

One thing I would caution you about is being careful where you attach your grounding clamp. These commonly make little arcs where they touch the body of the car. They are tiny and do not show up until years later when they start bubbling through the paint.
So you shouldn't attach the ground strap on any "show" surface.

Just a word of caution, not a criticism.
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Worst memory: 1965 Notch back, rolled end over end, 2 days after rebuild, fractured Strut-bar..... Lesson learned: ALWAYS upgrade the front suspension of an early Mustang!
Worst mustang: 1974 4-cyl auto (it was cheap, I was broke...).
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Old 06-20-2012, 08:28 PM   #207
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I did not know that, thanks!
Are you saying it burns a little spot that you can't see and it will come back later even when sanded down and painted?
Lynn
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'99 GT automatic
CDC Shaker scoop, K&N Filter
MAC cat back
Max Speed 1 ½” Lowering springs
KYB GR2 shocks and struts
Cobra front brakes

'65 Mustang coupe in progress
http://mustangforums.com/forum/class...s-of-pics.html

Last edited by LynnBob Mustang; 06-21-2012 at 06:52 AM.
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Old 06-20-2012, 10:12 PM   #208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LynnBob Mustang View Post
I did not know that, thanks!
Are you saying it burns a little spot that you can't see and it will come back later even when sanded don and painted?
Lynn
Sanding down to bare metal usually takes care of them.
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Owned 32 Mustangs & Counting.

Fondest memories: 1969 428CJ, it was stolen 60 days after complete rebuild.....
Worst memory: 1965 Notch back, rolled end over end, 2 days after rebuild, fractured Strut-bar..... Lesson learned: ALWAYS upgrade the front suspension of an early Mustang!
Worst mustang: 1974 4-cyl auto (it was cheap, I was broke...).
Favorite body style 1965/66 Fastback.
Present stable: 1997 SVT Cobra, 50k miles, Paciffic Green w/ tan leather & lots of goodies.
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Old 06-21-2012, 11:58 AM   #209
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Very nice!
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Old 07-03-2012, 01:11 PM   #210
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Getting ready to start the cowl so I figured I better make sure things are where they are supposed to be before I take the cowl out fully.

Both of my Scott Drakes products sitting in my 28K shock towers seeing if everything lines up correctly.

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They pretty much dropped right in with no issues.
Lynn
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'99 GT automatic
CDC Shaker scoop, K&N Filter
MAC cat back
Max Speed 1 ½” Lowering springs
KYB GR2 shocks and struts
Cobra front brakes

'65 Mustang coupe in progress
http://mustangforums.com/forum/class...s-of-pics.html
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Old 07-08-2012, 07:34 PM   #211
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Cowl inner fender brace brackets off.
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I decided I will fully replace the upper and lower coal, I first thought I would just try and save the lower cowl, but, I'll replace it fully and it will be good for a long time and I won't have to worry about it.
Lynn
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'99 GT automatic
CDC Shaker scoop, K&N Filter
MAC cat back
Max Speed 1 ½” Lowering springs
KYB GR2 shocks and struts
Cobra front brakes

'65 Mustang coupe in progress
http://mustangforums.com/forum/class...s-of-pics.html
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Old 07-08-2012, 10:29 PM   #212
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Looking good,....thats a Hobart 140, correct,..how many hrs do you get from that tank and whats your mixture?
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Old 07-09-2012, 05:34 AM   #213
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Thanks!!
That is correct, the Hobart 140 MIG handler. I got the argon co mix. I'm not sure how many hrs I got on it.

Looking back on my pics I see I have had that tank since at least June of last year, possibly end of May of last year. I have not filled it since. I have done one full rocker inner and outer repair, two wheel house repairs, 2 quarter replacements, one torque box install, and several misc. repairs. I have done a lot of work on it before I needed to have it refilled.

I'm now empty and I need to do my cowl. I was filling my little bottle left and right before and it cost almost twice as much to fill a little bottle then it does the big bottle.
Lynn
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'99 GT automatic
CDC Shaker scoop, K&N Filter
MAC cat back
Max Speed 1 ½” Lowering springs
KYB GR2 shocks and struts
Cobra front brakes

'65 Mustang coupe in progress
http://mustangforums.com/forum/class...s-of-pics.html
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Old 07-09-2012, 09:12 AM   #214
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Excellent call on fixing the hidden damage in the cowl.

In the noreins build post, towards the end, they show the rebuild required behind the door hinge structure. Are you going to look there as well? They had visible evidence of the damage but their paint guy found it when prepping their Mustang.
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Owned 32 Mustangs & Counting.

Fondest memories: 1969 428CJ, it was stolen 60 days after complete rebuild.....
Worst memory: 1965 Notch back, rolled end over end, 2 days after rebuild, fractured Strut-bar..... Lesson learned: ALWAYS upgrade the front suspension of an early Mustang!
Worst mustang: 1974 4-cyl auto (it was cheap, I was broke...).
Favorite body style 1965/66 Fastback.
Present stable: 1997 SVT Cobra, 50k miles, Paciffic Green w/ tan leather & lots of goodies.
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Old 07-09-2012, 04:46 PM   #215
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Just don't look at anything around your hinge structure, you really don't want to know or find what's behind it! lol

Good call on the full cowl replacement. I wish we'd have gone that route, yeah you pay up front with the price of the replacement piece, but the repair is a lot more simple and you're better off in the end anyway.
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Old 07-09-2012, 09:06 PM   #216
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Well, I got the full DC cowl with car, so I didn't buy it and it is shame not to use all of it. I was going to just use the top and clean up the bottom inside, but I think a full replacement is better in the long run and I may as well use the full cowl I got.

The thought of splitting the thing open because it is welded together sucks, but it needs to be done so I can prep the inside so it won't rust out and I have to drill holes in it to weld it up anyway. I wonder what rocket scientist who thought of welding it together needs to kicked in the nuts.

Your scaring me on the hinge structure. it looks fine, but I haven't taken the doors off yet either and looks solid on the inside as well.
Lynn
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'99 GT automatic
CDC Shaker scoop, K&N Filter
MAC cat back
Max Speed 1 ½” Lowering springs
KYB GR2 shocks and struts
Cobra front brakes

'65 Mustang coupe in progress
http://mustangforums.com/forum/class...s-of-pics.html

Last edited by LynnBob Mustang; 07-09-2012 at 09:11 PM.
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Old 07-10-2012, 12:20 PM   #217
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Hmm. Well do what you feel necessary. I mean, it's e-coated already. You could always spray something through the sides where the openings are. But I guess if the metal isn't prepped right even the toughest rust converters or primer won't adhere properly. Good lesson for us all for the future, buy the pieces seperately when you have the chance.

Yeah...don't mean to scare you on the hinge comment. I remember being excited thinking that was the one good part on our car. Yowzers were we ever wrong. That's why I said don't look at it and do NOT, God forbid, poke around with a screw driver
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Old 07-10-2012, 05:58 PM   #218
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So are you saying you wouldn't even open it to prep inside and just leave it as is? I guess it is better rust protected then from the factory now.

I would still have to drill the quadrillion holes to spot weld it in anyway I just figured I'd drill out the factory spot welds and open her up.

Lynn
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'99 GT automatic
CDC Shaker scoop, K&N Filter
MAC cat back
Max Speed 1 ½” Lowering springs
KYB GR2 shocks and struts
Cobra front brakes

'65 Mustang coupe in progress
http://mustangforums.com/forum/class...s-of-pics.html
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Old 07-11-2012, 05:39 AM   #219
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IF you cannot stand not doing something with it, which I would tend to share the same feelings, I would only think about spraying black epoxy in there as best as possible. No, I would not pull it apart. Pulling it apart only sets yourself up for a whole lot of work as well as the chance that you do not weld it back together perfectly. It's e-coated already which is already worlds ahead of how they came factory, and really are you going leave the car outside in a monsoon over and over again ...I don't know. It's your call. It sure makes for an interesting topic to say the least. The only thing I wouldn't do is use chassis saver or por 15 or kbs in there because it isn't rust and it won't bond properly. Even without being able to scuff the metal for the epoxy, it's meant for non rusted metal and it will like it over a rust converter.
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Old 07-12-2012, 07:34 AM   #220
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Thanks!!
I'll just install it as is and shoot a little color inside. It should last for a good long time for as very little time it will get wet.
Lynn
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'99 GT automatic
CDC Shaker scoop, K&N Filter
MAC cat back
Max Speed 1 ½” Lowering springs
KYB GR2 shocks and struts
Cobra front brakes

'65 Mustang coupe in progress
http://mustangforums.com/forum/class...s-of-pics.html
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Old 07-12-2012, 07:34 AM
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