Our '65 coupe project, so it begins (Lots of pics)
11-05-2009, 05:42 AM
#21
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Location: PA
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Since I'm doing a 16 to V8 swap, I've got almost everything out off the front end now.
Will these motor mount bases need to be saved for the swap to bolt the new V8 ones to or will everything be replaced for the V8 swap?
Lynn
Will these motor mount bases need to be saved for the swap to bolt the new V8 ones to or will everything be replaced for the V8 swap?
Lynn
11-05-2009, 08:05 PM
#22
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I noticed you still have the I6 engine mount frame brackets. I would recommend using the RMP adjustable motor mounts. It makes things much easier than using the regular ones. If you do decide to use the regular ones use the 66+ style and not the 65 style. At least thats what I was always told to use by Mustang shops and people on forums.
11-06-2009, 05:57 AM
#26
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I thought about it, but I'm leaning to wanting to keep it as old school as possible.
The only reason I'll use the 5.0 engine is because it is already built, from what my buddy that I bought the car from was telling me, before he pulled out it of his GT to put in the 351 crate motor. The 5.0 engine has a good lopey cam, had roller rockers and was supercharged before he got it. The guy pulled the SC off, roller rockers out, and put the cobra intake back on.
I've got my '99 GT if I want modern technology.
I can't even get past the looks of 16"+ wheels on these cars, I just don't like the look.
Lynn
The only reason I'll use the 5.0 engine is because it is already built, from what my buddy that I bought the car from was telling me, before he pulled out it of his GT to put in the 351 crate motor. The 5.0 engine has a good lopey cam, had roller rockers and was supercharged before he got it. The guy pulled the SC off, roller rockers out, and put the cobra intake back on.
I've got my '99 GT if I want modern technology.
I can't even get past the looks of 16"+ wheels on these cars, I just don't like the look.
Lynn
11-08-2009, 06:42 AM
#27
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Update.....
A few holes I found, what is the best way to take care of them?
Both are in the bottom of the shock towers, one each, I dug them out all I could and it feels very, very solid.
Here are a couple of holes in the fire wall and engine bay panel.
Thanks for the help.
Lynn
A few holes I found, what is the best way to take care of them?
Both are in the bottom of the shock towers, one each, I dug them out all I could and it feels very, very solid.
Here are a couple of holes in the fire wall and engine bay panel.
Thanks for the help.
Lynn
Last edited by LynnBob Mustang; 11-08-2009 at 07:16 AM.
11-08-2009, 07:40 AM
#29
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After about 6 hrs on between both sides of the scrapping by hand and using a wire brush on the engine bay it is all cleaned up and ready to be covered in the Chassis Saver paint. I have gotten the all the rails underneath the front and most of the of the other side all cleaned as well.
I got my Holbart 140 handler welder the other night, so once I get some training and practice on using it, I'll tackle the rust holes.
It is still amazing me on how good of shape this car really is overall.
Lynn
I got my Holbart 140 handler welder the other night, so once I get some training and practice on using it, I'll tackle the rust holes.
It is still amazing me on how good of shape this car really is overall.
Lynn
Last edited by LynnBob Mustang; 11-08-2009 at 07:43 AM.
11-10-2009, 02:01 PM
#30
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Update..
Here is the frame cleaned up and the Chassis Saver applied to it.
I started cleaning up the radiator support and engine bay. I cleaned, sanded down, and sprayed on the Rustolium rust converter paint, then I'll hit hit with epoxy Chassis black.
This more then likely be it before the cold weather hits. I can start doing stuff with what I got in my basement and I can still rip out the rear end, this will probably be it for the painting until spring.
If I get adventurous I'll fire up my new welder and practice and rip out the floor pans on the warmer winter days.
Lynn
Here is the frame cleaned up and the Chassis Saver applied to it.
I started cleaning up the radiator support and engine bay. I cleaned, sanded down, and sprayed on the Rustolium rust converter paint, then I'll hit hit with epoxy Chassis black.
This more then likely be it before the cold weather hits. I can start doing stuff with what I got in my basement and I can still rip out the rear end, this will probably be it for the painting until spring.
If I get adventurous I'll fire up my new welder and practice and rip out the floor pans on the warmer winter days.
Lynn