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Our '65 coupe project, so it begins (Lots of pics)

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Old 11-01-2009, 12:20 PM   #1
LynnBob Mustang
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Default Our '65 coupe project, so it begins (Lots of pics)

Well, my wife and I just got our '65 coupe home today.
It was a I6 with a auto.
We got her for $2000 and that included a mildly built '95 5'0 motor with cam and Cobra intake.
It also came with all the following new metal. A complete cowl, two full rear qtr's NOS front fender, new outer wheels wells, new LT rocker, new front floors, toe panels, new gas tank.
All documentation so far points to the car only having 28K on it and it came from southern PA.
We gotta long haul ahead of us for this thing, but I think it will be worth it.

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The floor boards underneath have light surface rust only in a few spots, all the frame rails seam solid a rock.
Lynn
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'99 GT automatic
CDC Shaker scoop, K&N Filter
MAC cat back
Max Speed 1 ½” Lowering springs
KYB GR2 shocks and struts
Cobra front brakes

'65 Mustang coupe in progress
http://mustangforums.com/forum/class...s-of-pics.html

Last edited by LynnBob Mustang; 11-01-2009 at 12:33 PM.
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Old 11-01-2009, 12:41 PM   #2
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Thats decent, almost as good as my Cougar was. Dont forget to add torque boxes to it before you stuff in a V8.
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Old 11-01-2009, 07:07 PM   #3
LynnBob Mustang
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Thanks! I thought about adding the torque boxes when I do some welding on the car, they will help a lot?

What is the best way to strip off the undercoating on the engine bay walls?

This will probably end up being a in progress thread if any one wants to see it..?..
Lynn
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CDC Shaker scoop, K&N Filter
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Max Speed 1 ½” Lowering springs
KYB GR2 shocks and struts
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'65 Mustang coupe in progress
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Old 11-01-2009, 08:53 PM   #4
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I always like "in progress" threads. I like seeing what techniques others are using. Better check out that driver's side frame rail under the floor pan real well. With that big rust hole above it you may end up replacing it also.
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Old 11-01-2009, 08:58 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LynnBob Mustang View Post
Thanks! I thought about adding the torque boxes when I do some welding on the car, they will help a lot?

What is the best way to strip off the undercoating on the engine bay walls?

This will probably end up being a in progress thread if any one wants to see it..?..
Lynn
I used paint stripper and a putty knife to scrape everything off. Then neutralized the stripper and sanded a little bit.

How about a overall picture of the car?
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Old 11-02-2009, 02:56 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THUMPIN455 View Post
Thats decent, almost as good as my Cougar was. Dont forget to add torque boxes to it before you stuff in a V8.
I thought our cars already had torque boxes. Am I mistaken?
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Old 11-02-2009, 03:00 AM   #7
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iirc only verts got torque boxes then in 67 or 68 they all got them
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Old 11-02-2009, 05:38 AM   #8
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I used paint stripper and a putty knife to scrape everything off. Then neutralized the stripper and sanded a little bit.

How about a overall picture of the car?
Thanks, I'll try that.
The car is in my garage and is now up on stands and is not movable, unfortunately I forgot to get some pics of it on the trailer.
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Lynn
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'99 GT automatic
CDC Shaker scoop, K&N Filter
MAC cat back
Max Speed 1 ½” Lowering springs
KYB GR2 shocks and struts
Cobra front brakes

'65 Mustang coupe in progress
http://mustangforums.com/forum/class...s-of-pics.html

Last edited by LynnBob Mustang; 09-17-2011 at 06:43 PM.
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Old 11-02-2009, 05:42 AM   #9
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I thought our cars already had torque boxes. Am I mistaken?
'65-'66 did not have torque boxes, '67 had one torque box on the driver side, '68 started with two torque boxes.
Lynn
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CDC Shaker scoop, K&N Filter
MAC cat back
Max Speed 1 ½” Lowering springs
KYB GR2 shocks and struts
Cobra front brakes

'65 Mustang coupe in progress
http://mustangforums.com/forum/class...s-of-pics.html
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Old 11-02-2009, 06:30 AM   #10
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the body itself is looking good, unfortunately the previous owner shoved a 5.0 into it seems the rest of the car is stock. at least the front wheels are 4lug, so my guess is that no steering components were changed to V8. if you have 4lugs in the rear then most likely you have the integral type 7.25" rear axle which will not withstand the power of a V8 ... (I blew two before I got fed up and changed the rear axle).
Since it looks like your trying to make this a decent jobbie and starting with the shell you'll have to put in extra money and effort to change to V8 components or try to find an inline 6 engine if you are not bothered with power or want to keep original

sorry for the bad news (if they are)

Kalli
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Old 11-02-2009, 05:38 PM   #11
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No, no bad news.
My buddy never put the V8 into it. It just came with it. He took the I6 out of it a couple years ago when he was stripping it down. I have been looking into all what I need to do the V8 conversion and I plan on trying to get it up as close to Shelby specs as best I can.
It should get interesting.
Lynn
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'99 GT automatic
CDC Shaker scoop, K&N Filter
MAC cat back
Max Speed 1 ½” Lowering springs
KYB GR2 shocks and struts
Cobra front brakes

'65 Mustang coupe in progress
http://mustangforums.com/forum/class...s-of-pics.html
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Old 11-03-2009, 04:21 PM   #12
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I'll be getting a export brace for the car, do I take and cut off the old brace ends that are welded to the tower, or do I bolt it over the top of them with new one?
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Lynn
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'99 GT automatic
CDC Shaker scoop, K&N Filter
MAC cat back
Max Speed 1 ½” Lowering springs
KYB GR2 shocks and struts
Cobra front brakes

'65 Mustang coupe in progress
http://mustangforums.com/forum/class...s-of-pics.html
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Old 11-03-2009, 05:31 PM   #13
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cutting off the old ones (i just used a pneumatic hacksaw) will be a cleaner job. if you don't cut them off you'll be looking at those weird stumps for the rest of your life. there's a good few who left the stubs on but i don't like the looks of it (personal opinion).
check this one out. that's mine which is a half assed job:
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Last edited by kalli; 11-03-2009 at 05:34 PM.
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Old 11-04-2009, 02:46 PM   #14
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I left the brackets on my shock towers when I installed my export brace. Like kalli said, it's a personal preference. The export brace will clear either way. I agree it looks cleaner with them removed. I'm just funny about cutting and drilling on my car if I don't have to. I don't know why, it's not like I'm ever going to reinstall the stock braces. One thing to note, leaving the brackets on leaves a nice sharp corner to snag your hand on when installing valve covers or spark plugs. Ask me how I know.
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Old 11-04-2009, 03:04 PM   #15
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I've seen both ways on the old export brace. Some folks cut them off and I've seen others leave them where they are.

Honestly though...I cut mine off...it looked pretty bad to me to leave them and you will notice them there.

As far as how to get the undercoat off...heat gun and a puddy knife works but if I already had my car torn down that much I'd probably just send it out to be blasted.
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Old 11-04-2009, 05:53 PM   #16
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Thanks guys, I'll cut them off, I too think it will look cleaner.
Besides, I got enough scars from working on cars.

Lynn
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'99 GT automatic
CDC Shaker scoop, K&N Filter
MAC cat back
Max Speed 1 ½” Lowering springs
KYB GR2 shocks and struts
Cobra front brakes

'65 Mustang coupe in progress
http://mustangforums.com/forum/class...s-of-pics.html

Last edited by LynnBob Mustang; 11-04-2009 at 09:08 PM.
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Old 11-04-2009, 09:08 PM   #17
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I'm trying to get the steering linkage off the steering box. I have gotten the nut off, and I have beaten the side of the arm like I did the Tie rod arms making them pop apart trying to get these to pop apart the same way.

They will be replaced, so if the ends get damage it isn't a big deal, so can you use a pickle fork to separate it? Or should I keep trying to hit it and see if it will pop off?
Thanks,
Lynn
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'99 GT automatic
CDC Shaker scoop, K&N Filter
MAC cat back
Max Speed 1 ½” Lowering springs
KYB GR2 shocks and struts
Cobra front brakes

'65 Mustang coupe in progress
http://mustangforums.com/forum/class...s-of-pics.html
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Old 11-04-2009, 11:32 PM   #18
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WOW!! This is definitely going to a fun project!! Hope to see In Progress pictures!!
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Old 11-05-2009, 12:42 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LynnBob Mustang View Post
I'm trying to get the steering linkage off the steering box. I have gotten the nut off, and I have beaten the side of the arm like I did the Tie rod arms making them pop apart trying to get these to pop apart the same way.

They will be replaced, so if the ends get damage it isn't a big deal, so can you use a pickle fork to separate it? Or should I keep trying to hit it and see if it will pop off?
Thanks,
Lynn
A pickle fork and a big hammer should pop them right apart. Project looks like a good one, good luck!
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Old 11-05-2009, 05:40 AM   #20
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A pickle fork and a big hammer should pop them right apart. Project looks like a good one, good luck!
Thanks! I'll try that tonight.
Lynn
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'99 GT automatic
CDC Shaker scoop, K&N Filter
MAC cat back
Max Speed 1 ½” Lowering springs
KYB GR2 shocks and struts
Cobra front brakes

'65 Mustang coupe in progress
http://mustangforums.com/forum/class...s-of-pics.html
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Old 11-05-2009, 05:40 AM
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