Where to bloody begin?
12-15-2009, 11:54 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: England
Posts: 14
Where to bloody begin?
Hey fellas,
Usually you see a lot of threads where people already know the project they want to do and only have a few specific questions. I am sort of the opposite.
Living in England makes this entire process infinitely harder to do but I'm 23 and earning enough money to start seriously thinking about what I want. I know I need a car that can work as a daily driver effectively (covered in the harder winter months) yet still has some reasonable and recognisable power and can deal with a bit of rain.
This will be a month by month project once I have the car shipped over (not even going into those problems) as each month I'm saving a good £500/$800 which I am happy to put into this.
So at the moment I drive a 1997 1.7 ford puma which does 125bhp and 125mph (97k) but it handles excellently and weighs 1050 kg and does 0-60 in 9.0 secs (12 year car) and it would be nice to obviously better those numbers comfortably however I can safely say that this car will not see the track or the showroom as its raison d'etre is to get me to work or across country and turn a few heads on the way. This means a lot of idling and 0-60 is probably more important than top speed. What would be needed under the hood to get under 8 second or 7 second 0-60s?
From the research I have done and going from a complete noob to not so complete noob it would seem that the popular set ups are based around a 302 short block. Is this a good place to begin? It would also be fantastic to have a 5/6 speed and all I have found so far is a tremec tko series. Are there better ones available? I have never, and would like to avoid, an automatic.
Please suggest ideas to me or that special "if you could do it all again, you would have bought..."
So condensing that rabble into 3 short questions.
1. What would be needed (minimum) under the hood to get under 8 second or 7 second 0-60s?
2. Is the 302 block the way to go? Should I buy new or rebuilt?
3. As this is a daily driver, what would be unnecessary to buy?
I really appreciate the time any of you might take in helping. We all have to start somewhere I suppose and this would certainly count as your good deed of the day!
Cheers fellas,
John
Usually you see a lot of threads where people already know the project they want to do and only have a few specific questions. I am sort of the opposite.
Living in England makes this entire process infinitely harder to do but I'm 23 and earning enough money to start seriously thinking about what I want. I know I need a car that can work as a daily driver effectively (covered in the harder winter months) yet still has some reasonable and recognisable power and can deal with a bit of rain.
This will be a month by month project once I have the car shipped over (not even going into those problems) as each month I'm saving a good £500/$800 which I am happy to put into this.
So at the moment I drive a 1997 1.7 ford puma which does 125bhp and 125mph (97k) but it handles excellently and weighs 1050 kg and does 0-60 in 9.0 secs (12 year car) and it would be nice to obviously better those numbers comfortably however I can safely say that this car will not see the track or the showroom as its raison d'etre is to get me to work or across country and turn a few heads on the way. This means a lot of idling and 0-60 is probably more important than top speed. What would be needed under the hood to get under 8 second or 7 second 0-60s?
From the research I have done and going from a complete noob to not so complete noob it would seem that the popular set ups are based around a 302 short block. Is this a good place to begin? It would also be fantastic to have a 5/6 speed and all I have found so far is a tremec tko series. Are there better ones available? I have never, and would like to avoid, an automatic.
Please suggest ideas to me or that special "if you could do it all again, you would have bought..."
So condensing that rabble into 3 short questions.
1. What would be needed (minimum) under the hood to get under 8 second or 7 second 0-60s?
2. Is the 302 block the way to go? Should I buy new or rebuilt?
3. As this is a daily driver, what would be unnecessary to buy?
I really appreciate the time any of you might take in helping. We all have to start somewhere I suppose and this would certainly count as your good deed of the day!
Cheers fellas,
John
12-15-2009, 12:18 PM
#2
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 1,241
So condensing that rabble into 3 short questions.
1. What would be needed (minimum) under the hood to get under 8 second or 7 second 0-60s?
2. Is the 302 block the way to go? Should I buy new or rebuilt?
3. As this is a daily driver, what would be unnecessary to buy?
John
1. What would be needed (minimum) under the hood to get under 8 second or 7 second 0-60s?
2. Is the 302 block the way to go? Should I buy new or rebuilt?
3. As this is a daily driver, what would be unnecessary to buy?
John
1. It really wont take much of anything to do that. A stock rebuild might be even capable of that?
2. Depends it you want to go with year correct or if you care. A roller block would be great for a DD. I am in the middle of a rebuilt right now, and can say unless you want something specific in the engine I would go with a crate motor.
3. Disc brakes. Dual pot MC. 3 point seat belts. The list can go on and on.
EDIT: Haha, just reread that it said UNnecessary. ^^Those are necessary.
Last edited by Nick.Simonds; 12-16-2009 at 10:18 AM.
12-15-2009, 12:35 PM
#3
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Texas
Posts: 671
With a 302, 300HP should be plenty easy to get to. In my 3,500lb car that much power is good for less than 5.5sec 0-60s so in the significantly lighter 1st generation Mustangs with modern rubber and a more modern transmission you should be able to see similar or better numbers.
A stock 289 HiPo equipped 65 was good for 7.5sec 0-60 with old school rubber, and original trans. You should have no problem getting your improved acceleration.
A stock 289 HiPo equipped 65 was good for 7.5sec 0-60 with old school rubber, and original trans. You should have no problem getting your improved acceleration.
12-15-2009, 12:51 PM
#4
6th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 5,232
Living in England makes this entire process infinitely harder to do but I'm 23 and earning enough money to start seriously thinking about what I want. I know I need a car that can work as a daily driver effectively (covered in the harder winter months) yet still has some reasonable and recognisable power and can deal with a bit of rain.
This will be a month by month project once I have the car shipped over (not even going into those problems) as each month I'm saving a good £500/$800 which I am happy to put into this.
I can safely say that this car will not see the track or the showroom as its raison d'etre is to get me to work or across country and turn a few heads on the way. This means a lot of idling and 0-60 is probably more important than top speed. What would be needed under the hood to get under 8 second or 7 second 0-60s?
Well-planned 289/302, 4V with ported stock or aftermarket heads. The stock heads can greatly benefit from exhaust port matching, very economical if you can do it yourself. If you can install heads, you're capable of port-matching them.
From the research I have done and going from a complete noob to not so complete noob it would seem that the popular set ups are based around a 302 short block. Is this a good place to begin? It would also be fantastic to have a 5/6 speed and all I have found so far is a tremec tko series. Are there better ones available? I have never, and would like to avoid, an automatic.
The Tremec requires modification to the trans tunnel, but with just a few adapters, the T5 5-speed will bolt right in. Perfect for a 289/302 car.
1. What would be needed (minimum) under the hood to get under 8 second or 7 second 0-60s?
Any 289/302 could be built to do that, even easier if you go with 351W
2. Is the 302 block the way to go? Should I buy new or rebuilt?
Up to you, if the car comes with the size you want, you're that much closer.
3. As this is a daily driver, what would be unnecessary to buy?
Fat wires, underhood chrome, Huge ignition coils, MSD.
I really appreciate the time any of you might take in helping. We all have to start somewhere I suppose and this would certainly count as your good deed of the day!
This car was built and operated by a countryman of yours. He found it for sale in an alley in England, so rusty the only thing holding the rear end off the ground was a chunk of wood.
http://www.mustangbarn.com/king.html
This will be a month by month project once I have the car shipped over (not even going into those problems) as each month I'm saving a good £500/$800 which I am happy to put into this.
I can safely say that this car will not see the track or the showroom as its raison d'etre is to get me to work or across country and turn a few heads on the way. This means a lot of idling and 0-60 is probably more important than top speed. What would be needed under the hood to get under 8 second or 7 second 0-60s?
Well-planned 289/302, 4V with ported stock or aftermarket heads. The stock heads can greatly benefit from exhaust port matching, very economical if you can do it yourself. If you can install heads, you're capable of port-matching them.
From the research I have done and going from a complete noob to not so complete noob it would seem that the popular set ups are based around a 302 short block. Is this a good place to begin? It would also be fantastic to have a 5/6 speed and all I have found so far is a tremec tko series. Are there better ones available? I have never, and would like to avoid, an automatic.
The Tremec requires modification to the trans tunnel, but with just a few adapters, the T5 5-speed will bolt right in. Perfect for a 289/302 car.
1. What would be needed (minimum) under the hood to get under 8 second or 7 second 0-60s?
Any 289/302 could be built to do that, even easier if you go with 351W
2. Is the 302 block the way to go? Should I buy new or rebuilt?
Up to you, if the car comes with the size you want, you're that much closer.
3. As this is a daily driver, what would be unnecessary to buy?
Fat wires, underhood chrome, Huge ignition coils, MSD.
I really appreciate the time any of you might take in helping. We all have to start somewhere I suppose and this would certainly count as your good deed of the day!
This car was built and operated by a countryman of yours. He found it for sale in an alley in England, so rusty the only thing holding the rear end off the ground was a chunk of wood.
http://www.mustangbarn.com/king.html
Last edited by 2+2GT; 12-15-2009 at 12:57 PM.
12-15-2009, 07:51 PM
#5
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: az
Posts: 459
I think a lot of your decision should be based upon what you can afford up front and what is available to you locally. It sounds like this will be a daily driver most of the year and parked outside under a car cover the rest of the time. That will limit the kind of projects you can tackle yourself.
Here in Phoenix AZ, fox body mustangs are plentiful. If you are on a budget it makes sense to buy($300) a used lower mileage, long block(heads, cam, block, crank, rods, pistons, oil pump, timing chain) from an 87-95 mustang instead of rebuilding a 289.
It is not uncommon to buy a complete fox body to transfer the long block, T5 and even fuel injection.
I would assume that shipping items like that would be difficult. It might be easier to find a car that has already been modded. Try areas of the US that are not susceptable to rust.
Good luck
Here in Phoenix AZ, fox body mustangs are plentiful. If you are on a budget it makes sense to buy($300) a used lower mileage, long block(heads, cam, block, crank, rods, pistons, oil pump, timing chain) from an 87-95 mustang instead of rebuilding a 289.
It is not uncommon to buy a complete fox body to transfer the long block, T5 and even fuel injection.
I would assume that shipping items like that would be difficult. It might be easier to find a car that has already been modded. Try areas of the US that are not susceptable to rust.
Good luck
12-16-2009, 07:02 AM
#6
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: England
Posts: 14
Thank you so much for getting the ball rolling everyone!
It would seem a 302 is the right choice...perhaps a crate engine is the way to go.
If you all dont mind I may use this thread to update/ask questions rather than 400 topics. I'm also going to get a haynes manual to read up on it. Are there any other good books out there?
I cannot wait to have something so special that will put all the euro boxes to shame!
One last thing. Which sites are good for sourcing mustangs?? I have looked at Ebay/autotrader (american versions) and it doesnt look so promising?
Cheers,
John
It would seem a 302 is the right choice...perhaps a crate engine is the way to go.
If you all dont mind I may use this thread to update/ask questions rather than 400 topics. I'm also going to get a haynes manual to read up on it. Are there any other good books out there?
I cannot wait to have something so special that will put all the euro boxes to shame!
One last thing. Which sites are good for sourcing mustangs?? I have looked at Ebay/autotrader (american versions) and it doesnt look so promising?
Cheers,
John
12-16-2009, 09:21 AM
#7
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: SFV, Calif.
Posts: 404
You could also search Craigslist.com Lots of people selling them there. But unless you have someone here handling the transaction for you or plan to come and handle things yourself. You may run into problems trying to purchase a car from oversea through classified ads web sites. It's a major problem with nigerian scammers purchasing cars using advance cash schemes, fraudulent money orders and such, so most people won't even consider it. Warnings about oversea car buyers are posted on most car sale sites, so you might want to keep that in mind.
12-16-2009, 09:45 AM
#8
6th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 5,232
If you all dont mind I may use this thread to update/ask questions rather than 400 topics. I'm also going to get a haynes manual to read up on it. Are there any other good books out there?
The Factory Service Manual makes the aftermarket books look pathetic, but they are year-specific, get that when you get a car.
I cannot wait to have something so special that will put all the euro boxes to shame!
Like the one in the link?
The Factory Service Manual makes the aftermarket books look pathetic, but they are year-specific, get that when you get a car.
I cannot wait to have something so special that will put all the euro boxes to shame!
Like the one in the link?
12-16-2009, 12:45 PM
#10
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: England
Posts: 14
Fantastic responses!
MetalEd - I have an uncle in NY so I will probably visit him for a week and do a cash transaction whilst I am there. The put the car on a ship back to the UK...shipping costs around £800 $1400 I think. It's probably the most expensive way of doing it but might be a cheaper way in the long run if I haven't seen the car I am buying...thanks for the advice.
2+2GT - Isn't that fast back gorgeous! I think I only have the funds for a 65 coupe unless my numbers come up this week. I do love those though! As per your book suggestion, do you have a link at amazon? there seems to be a few variants?
Nick.Simmonds - Thanks for the suggestion Nick, do you have a link also? After the last post I read a few reviews about the Haynes manual that were not so good so thanks for steering me clear (terrible pun...I shall see myself out!)
MetalEd - I have an uncle in NY so I will probably visit him for a week and do a cash transaction whilst I am there. The put the car on a ship back to the UK...shipping costs around £800 $1400 I think. It's probably the most expensive way of doing it but might be a cheaper way in the long run if I haven't seen the car I am buying...thanks for the advice.
2+2GT - Isn't that fast back gorgeous! I think I only have the funds for a 65 coupe unless my numbers come up this week. I do love those though! As per your book suggestion, do you have a link at amazon? there seems to be a few variants?
Nick.Simmonds - Thanks for the suggestion Nick, do you have a link also? After the last post I read a few reviews about the Haynes manual that were not so good so thanks for steering me clear (terrible pun...I shall see myself out!)
