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1 wire alternator

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Old 12-31-2009, 11:14 PM   #1
68GTcarrie
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Default 1 wire alternator

Im ready to convert my alternator to a 1 wire but I dont understand how many amps I will need... what info will I need to provide for someone to assist me with this??

Thank you as always
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Old 12-31-2009, 11:19 PM   #2
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Hummm where was that article....

here is an article you should read before you unbox that 1 wire

http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...hreewire.shtml

and here is the form link it came from

http://mustangforums.com/forum/classic-mustangs/574269-electrical-gremlin-from-hell-2.html

Read that stuff then you'll at lest have the other half of the story.

-Gun
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Old 01-01-2010, 12:37 AM   #3
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THank you so much for that! Much appreciated
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Old 01-01-2010, 01:13 AM   #4
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What electrical upgrades have you added or plan to add in the future? You really can't have too big of an alternator however if your going to purchase a replacement take into account what you'll be adding electrically in the future. Adding a larger sound system will require a larger then stock alt, adding amps, subs, etc will require an even larger alt. Heated seats, fog lights, daytime running lights, stereo setups, and many other accessories can really put a load on the battery.

They are not expensive and for 100.00 you can add a new 100amp alt which should be fine for damn near any of your general/common upgrades. Its likely the most common amp upgrade as prices show due to volume sales.

Regarding the 1-wire vs. 3-wire alt it really doesn't matter. Most people will either order a replacement stock alt or order the 1-wire 100 amp alt.

Personally it reduces the number of wires in my engine bay so I'll go the 1-wire.
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Old 01-01-2010, 02:08 AM   #5
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That make a lot of sense.. I dont plan on adding much beyond stock except for a cd player with MP3, standard amp etc.. nothing crazy, just something a sound system in a newer car.

1 wire alternator 100amp it is.. thank you!!
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Old 01-01-2010, 02:38 AM   #6
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When I put Hella H4 Halogen headlamps on my generator 64 1/2, I decided to try a PowerGen single-wire Alternator built into a Generator case. I thought it would be easier and kinda stealthy. It was a flippin' nightmare. It left me stranded twice on cruise nite. Then, I spent waaay too much time on the phone with Powermaster's Tech (and I use the term TECH loosely here!) support . I finally got an RA from them and I sent it back. When they got it, it was like we had never talked before! The guy asked me "What do you want to do?" I told him I wanted my money back. He said "we can't do that, you have to send it to Jeg's!" So, I had sent it at my expense to Tennessee, then the MO-ron sends it back to Colo-roddee, then I had to ship it back to O HIGH-o. Heck, the only folks who actually made money on this piece of crap was Fed Ex!
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Old 01-01-2010, 03:29 AM   #7
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I have a 100 amp 1 wire alternator on mine. It works great. All the lights are brighter too, which is nice.
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Old 01-01-2010, 10:28 AM   #8
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I have a 1 wire Powermaster in my 65 and it works perfectly. No more wondering if I hooked it up right. With several previous owners and "modified" wiring, this was the best option for me.
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Old 01-01-2010, 11:21 AM   #9
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Frankly, the powermaster stuff I have paid good money for has not impressed me much, and I have HEARD that the alternators that LOOK like gerenators (like Super64's) are pretty much high priced crap....

I kind of prefer the low priced Summit brand one wires as far as one wire alt's go, but I am now more in tune with OEM style 3 wire units.
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Old 01-05-2010, 01:32 AM   #10
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As far as 1 wire alts go, I've had a Powermaster 140 amp, several Powermaster 60 amps, and am currently running a Tuff Stuff 140 amp. The 140's haven't given me any troubles, but the 60 amps were too weak, running the headlights on the car drained the battery. Its the regulators on the 1 wire units that have failed me. But I've gone through just as many 3 wire units as well. I'll stick with the 1 wires.
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Old 01-05-2010, 06:36 PM   #11
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1 wire internal regulated alternators are the way to go...as far as the power, a stock 60-65 amp stock power will not cut it. I've got a 130 amp Mr Amp, but they also send the 6 gauge power wire and a thermal breaker with the kit.
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Old 01-05-2010, 09:00 PM   #12
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Running a Powermaster 140A on mine. After years of use I finally had the first one go out, on my second one now. It lasted a hell of a lot longer than any stock replacement alternator I ever had.
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Old 01-06-2010, 07:56 AM   #13
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Ok I bought a 150amp 1 wire alt that was originally a 3g... hmmmmm

I may have just gotten too excited to buy one before researching brands..or at least letting this thread keep going before buying!! Hope this one is good
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Old 01-06-2010, 09:00 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lefty3382 View Post
As far as 1 wire alts go, I've had a Power master 140 amp, several Power master 60 amps, and am currently running a Tuff Stuff 140 amp. The 140's haven't given me any troubles, but the 60 amps were too weak, running the headlights on the car drained the battery. Its the regulators on the 1 wire units that have failed me. But I've gone through just as many 3 wire units as well. I'll stick with the 1 wires.
I was looking at your sig after reading this post, "Never replace, upgrade"....


This is my problem with Power Master stuff, it seems I am paying "upgrade price" for a unit that wont last half as long as a similar rebuilt OEM component that costs half as much to start with...

I am particularly offended when I pay premium price for what seems to be a mediocre product.. It kind of feels like someone has hit me in the ***....
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Old 01-08-2010, 04:04 PM   #15
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This alternator is badass... installed it last night.
With lights on, fogs on, everything I could turn on lol... toggles between 14.8 and 15v constant. Its a converted Motorcraft 150amp alt

Here it is!!
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Old 01-08-2010, 05:13 PM   #16
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JMD, I agree with you about paying the "upgrade price" with certain brands. You are certainly paying a premium with Powermaster because of the name brand recognition. With my first Powermaster purchase I was fine with that because the 140 amp 1-wire alt I bought lasted me for years without ever any hassle, so I was happy. I sold that alternator after a few years when my first engine died...

Then I had a couple Powermaster 60 amps which were diagnosed as having bad regulators when I was experiencing some electrical problems with my car starting, battery draining, etc. I'm still not totally convinced that the regulators were the problem, but I sent them back and got the Tuff Stuff 140 amp 1 wire to change it up and for the extra power. Haven't had a problem since. You don't pay nearly as much of a premium with Tuff Stuff either, I went from a Powermaster 60 amp to a Tuff Stuff 140 amp, and it was still $10 cheaper.

I don't know how long brand new and remanufactured alternators are expected to last, or what the average is, but an OEM rebuilt alternator has always given out on me after a while.
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Old 01-08-2010, 07:01 PM   #17
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The Tuff Stuff is fairly reasonable, I was considering a Tuff Stuff Booster/Master Cylinder a while back, it was well priced and the selection was good.

When I think "premium price, mediocre product" Optima batteries come to mind...

Those things USED to be good, now they are ****!!!!
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Old 01-08-2010, 08:40 PM   #18
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I forgot to mention, for those people looking into alternators, that the Powermaster units fit great on my car being 1G Ford units. The Tuff Stuff is a "special GM style case with Ford mounting" which did not fit as well on my car. I have a chrome alternator bracket kit from M+ and the lower bracket wasn't long enough. The Tuff alt needed to swing further out, away from the engine block to fit properly. This mean that I had to buy a new belt and rig up an extension for the bracket out of a door striker plate, until I can get a longer bracket that fits. Here are the pics to see for yourself:

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 03-28-2010, 11:59 PM   #19
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hey i am new to this whole thing here.. i have a 68 coupe "C" but was swaped with the 302... my alt went to ****! my battery keeps going dead.. I replaced it with a 65 amp referb and still went dead so i took it back.. they gave me another one to try and still it goes dead! wtf.. Anyone have any clue to what i can do? it dosent have a regulator on the side under the siloinoid like it shows in my book? dose it need one? or is it built in? any help? i bought the car for 2000 and have already put over a 1000 into it in the month ive had it... "new edelbrock intake and 600 cfm carb, cap, rotor, exaust, push button ignition." lots of stuff but this little problem is freekin KILLING ME!!!!
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Old 03-29-2010, 12:00 AM   #20
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Ohh.. email is ethan1@hotmail.com.. thanks if anyone can help????
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Old 03-29-2010, 12:00 AM
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