FoMoJoe

I've got a '65 with the stock export brace between the shock towers and the cowl. It's the cheap version where it's probably welded to the shock tower, then the bolt in piece of tin metal goes to the cowl.

I hear the other factory style brace that is all one piece from the top of the shock tower to the cowl to the other side isn't much better, only being a stamped and folded piece of metal as well.

I've seen some guys install the second version I described, and only removing the cheap bar set up from cowl to the shock tower, but leaving the welded in portion to the shock tower and therefor leaving it under the new brace.

Looks kinda dorky to do this... What's an easy way to remove those welded in parts to the shock tower if installing the larger version to the top of the tower? My engine bay is neat and painted, so I don't want to go to town with a hack saw, cut off wheel etc. Could simple holes be drilled where it's welded, drilling from inside the fender well to break the weld on the shock tower? What have others done when making this switch???

Tony R

I cut mine off and ground them smooth. You might have to do some touch up painting to fix. I don't think it would look good with holes drilled through . Once you are done your new brace will most likely cover over the welded portion any way.

2+2GT

Zip the stubs with an air chisel, and a few minutes with a grinder or file and they'll be a memory.

Deviousfred

I drilled the spot welds and they came right off. Under 5 minutes for both sides, iirc. I will just be welding them in later. I do like the idea mentined though of cutting them off and grinding them down. saves you from having to weld in the holes later.

LynnBob Mustang

I just cut mine off with my cut off wheel and ground them down. Worked like a charm and it doesn't look half assed of just leaving them in there with the new one bolted on top.
I've got a Scott Drake export brace that is supposed to be beefier and stockier then the cheaper one piece export braces.
Lynn

LynnBob Mustang

I don't know where you heard that but the one piece export brace is pretty strong and is much durable then what the factory put on it.
The Scott Drake export brace is supposed to be the best of them.
It is also advisable to add a weld a angled piece of metal to where the export bolts to the cowl to give it more strength. The Shelby's came with this from the factory and is done for a reason.
Lynn

Deviousfred

Street or Track makes a nice adjustable billet aluminum piece that is reasonably priced. I hear their stamped version also fits quite nice. +1 on the angle iron to reinforce the firewall mount and even some flat stock on the inside of the firewall for added strength. Check out JamesW's site. He has a good write up that illustrates the angle iron and flat stock reinforcements.

http://www.midnightdsigns.com/Mustang/ExportBrace.htm

LynnBob Mustang

Got a link for that?

Thanks,
Lynn

Deviousfred

Sure do. Just added it to my original post. Was on my cellphone this morning.

2+2GT

I'll make a bold statement- Any "brace" with heim joints at the end isn't worth a crap. Heim joints are intended to facilitate movement. Why on earth would someone want to facilitate movement of the mounting point of a brace is beyond me. The heavy gauge deeply stamped factory export brace forms a solid, twist-resistant brace across the whole car. Sure the heim style are better than the thin sheetmetal originals, but I don't see how they hold a candle to the real thing. Adjustability might make it really easy to install on the typical saggy older Mustang, but people are kidding themselves if they think this is better than solid steel, dimensionally correct braces.

Tell you what. Pick up a heim joint brace and pull the shock tower ends toward each other. A kitten could do it. Now try the same thing with an export brace. Even if you supplement the heim style with a Monte Carlo bar, you can still twist the shock tower mounts and cowl mount freely. Not so with the original.