My 302 Apart
#12
Very cool never seen all the parts spread out like that
Wouldnt you prefer to build the engine back up on a stand and then drop it back in the car? Like rtintwo said save your back and legs since you'll have hours of leaning into that engine bay
Wouldnt you prefer to build the engine back up on a stand and then drop it back in the car? Like rtintwo said save your back and legs since you'll have hours of leaning into that engine bay
#13
Trick flows are easy to put on. If you have an old school block it will require some small hole drilled into the deck of the block where the head goes on for coolant to flow. The directions are very clear with the heads. Other than that the heads are just like any other to put on.
#15
#16
The Edelbrock heads with the .190 Intake valves will bolt right on. But if you plan on spinning it very high change the springs. They are pretty weak and only a single spring. The Trick Flow have a dual set up. One thing to remember is that if you go with TFS you will need TWO different pushrods. They are about .050 longer for the intake because of the valve placement.
#17
same info here:
pushrods are tricky. they are totally different size to stock because of the re-orientation. you will need to be very accurate with the length checker. Further as mentioned the hole that needs drilling is very clear in document alright. When I was checking for heads (i ended up with a different engine, so never bought a set) I checked through the instructions of manufacturer to know what I can expect during the change. Further I'd contact the manufacturer on their opinion if it should fit or not and what needs be done.
As for the edelbrocks: I have the edelbrock rpm with 2.02 valves. drives nicely. so no complaints although I expected a bit more power, but I'm not sure if that's my fault.
pushrods are tricky. they are totally different size to stock because of the re-orientation. you will need to be very accurate with the length checker. Further as mentioned the hole that needs drilling is very clear in document alright. When I was checking for heads (i ended up with a different engine, so never bought a set) I checked through the instructions of manufacturer to know what I can expect during the change. Further I'd contact the manufacturer on their opinion if it should fit or not and what needs be done.
As for the edelbrocks: I have the edelbrock rpm with 2.02 valves. drives nicely. so no complaints although I expected a bit more power, but I'm not sure if that's my fault.
#18
This is just my opinion but if you have your motor that far apart i would go ahead and take it out. For me it would save alot of back pain by avoiding holding 30 pound wieghts out with me bent over. Also it would give you a chance to do a good job of freshening up the paint in those hard to reach areas. But this is just me.
From what I can see, he only has the heads off the motor. If he were planning on rebuilding or replacing the short block then taking it out would be best. These engine compartments are not crowded like modern cars. In this particular case I would be doing it the same way he is, dealing with it as an in frame. The only thing I might do different is that I would make darn sure that I miced the cylinders while the heads are off even though you can't do a thorough job with the pistons in place.
#19
They were put one when the late model 302 was rebuilt and I don't recall that anything special had to be done.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Galactic
Archive - Mustangs For Sale
10
04-29-2019 02:56 PM
bradleyb
Classic Mustangs (Tech)
3
11-27-2015 07:50 PM
jaiidutch
Motor Swap Section
2
09-14-2015 10:29 AM