Shelby drop questions
#1
Shelby drop questions
Hi,
I am thinking about doing the shelby drop and was wondering if this is something a guy with little front end knowledge should consider doing. I am a little worried (scared to death) about coil spring compression danger. I am leaning towards the GT springs as I want to maintain my current GT handling and highth. About how much will the shely drop lower the car? Also who sells quality Upper control arms and springs? I understand there are some foreign parts to stay away from.
Thx! Walt
I am thinking about doing the shelby drop and was wondering if this is something a guy with little front end knowledge should consider doing. I am a little worried (scared to death) about coil spring compression danger. I am leaning towards the GT springs as I want to maintain my current GT handling and highth. About how much will the shely drop lower the car? Also who sells quality Upper control arms and springs? I understand there are some foreign parts to stay away from.
Thx! Walt
#2
The drop itself is as easy as drilling holes. I recommend dazecars for the template and drill bit. You should use a 1/2" drill but a 3/8" should work. Double check that the drill bit will go in a 3/8" drill. I borrowed a spring compressor from Checker auto.
The hard part. Sometimes it takes a lot of heavy wacks to the spindle to get the UCA out. A heavy sledge and an angry attitude can make short work of it. Mustangs plus has a short write up about how to remove ford suspension components. While you are there and are looking for improved handling I also recommend roller spring perches and a heavier sway bar. The last cog in squeezing out all the performance you can with this setup is a performance tire/rim combo.
I am not sure how much the 1" drop will lower the car while keeping all other components the same. Most say 1/2"-3/4".
tools needed
drill
open end wrenches for UCA bolts
big sledge
sockets and ratchets
air tools are great if you have them
spring compressor
Don't forget you will need to get the front end aligned after you are done with the install.
The hard part. Sometimes it takes a lot of heavy wacks to the spindle to get the UCA out. A heavy sledge and an angry attitude can make short work of it. Mustangs plus has a short write up about how to remove ford suspension components. While you are there and are looking for improved handling I also recommend roller spring perches and a heavier sway bar. The last cog in squeezing out all the performance you can with this setup is a performance tire/rim combo.
I am not sure how much the 1" drop will lower the car while keeping all other components the same. Most say 1/2"-3/4".
tools needed
drill
open end wrenches for UCA bolts
big sledge
sockets and ratchets
air tools are great if you have them
spring compressor
Don't forget you will need to get the front end aligned after you are done with the install.
#3
Hi,
I am thinking about doing the shelby drop and was wondering if this is something a guy with little front end knowledge should consider doing. I am a little worried (scared to death) about coil spring compression danger. I am leaning towards the GT springs as I want to maintain my current GT handling and highth. About how much will the Shelby drop lower the car? Also who sells quality Upper control arms and springs? I understand there are some foreign parts to stay away from.
Thx! Walt
I am thinking about doing the shelby drop and was wondering if this is something a guy with little front end knowledge should consider doing. I am a little worried (scared to death) about coil spring compression danger. I am leaning towards the GT springs as I want to maintain my current GT handling and highth. About how much will the Shelby drop lower the car? Also who sells quality Upper control arms and springs? I understand there are some foreign parts to stay away from.
Thx! Walt
If you use a good, safe coil spring compressor (not the hook type) it's safer than changing a tire.
The standard and GT springs should theoretically be the same height when installed. The "Arning drop" (developed by Klaus Arning) will lower the front end about 5/8". It was not intended to lower the car. It was a geometry change to make the car compatible with IRS, which was cancelled. However, the "drop" was determined to be the main thing improving the handling of the IRS-equipped cars, and was used on all 1965 GT350's, and the early 66 GT350.
Arning/Shelby Suspension Drop
There is plenty of source for suspension parts, but a good place to get a combination of "correct" appearance, quality, and price is Glazier Nolan.
http://www.mustangbarn.com/
It's hard to hold back on this modification. The difference in handling will feel like you upgraded the springs and sway bar, yet the ride remains the same. I would do this to any Mustang, except a never-driven trailer queen. Ford was flat-out stupid for not doing this to all 64-70 Mustangs.
Last edited by 2+2GT; 12-12-2010 at 07:54 AM.
#4
for upper control arms, template (for the drop) and roller spring perches I would check out http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/
John is a great guy to deal with. I got all of the above from him and dont regret any of it
John is a great guy to deal with. I got all of the above from him and dont regret any of it
#5
+1 for Opentracker Racing Products. John is great. Doesn't just want to sell you parts, I sent him an email with a simple question and he very promptly returned a thorough and thoughtful response specific to my application, offering to make my parts using measurements taken directly from my car. THAT is customer service.
#6
OCHOHILL a 3/8th"drill bit? That is not even close to big enough to get the upper control arm bolt through. You must be talking about the size of the shank to go in the drill. If you have a 1/2 inch drill that is not a problem. 7/32nd is the recommended size. That is 1/32 bigger than 1/2 inch. Edit; sorry that is 17/32.
Last edited by 67t5ponycoupe; 03-04-2010 at 06:23 PM.
#8
OCHOHILL a 3/8th"drill bit? That is not even close to big enough to get the upper control arm bolt through. You must be talking about the size of the shank to go in the drill. If you have a 1/2 inch drill that is not a problem. 7/32nd is the recommended size. That is 1/32 bigger than 1/2 inch. Edit; sorry that is 17/32.
I never recommended a 3/8" drill bit. I did recommend the OP purchase the template and bit from dazecars.