Steps to pulling '67 289 with auto trans.
#1
Steps to pulling '67 289 with auto trans.
I need some advise and a step by step order to pulling my engine and transmission. Please be as specific as possible as this will by my first engine pull. I have a little experience working on my car. I have changed the distributor, front wheel bearing, spring purch, rear wheel cylinders and 3rd member, all the first time with help from a friend and lots of reading. I have recently seem some very detailed post which are great. I am pulling both as they are both leaking like a sive. I plan on changing my 2 barrel to a 4 barrel and cam, I will probabley get a kit from summit. Thanks for the assistance.
#2
For the engine:
Drain the coolant (easiest way is to remove lower hose) and remove the radiator
Drain the engine oil (not absolutely neccessary but it will keep from making a mess)
Disconnect the battery and all the electrical on the engine: Starter, alternator, coil, water temp and oil sending units, etc. (be sure to mark wires so you know where to put them back on)
Diconnect the fuel line from the fuel pump on the lower front driverside of the engine. Be sure to plug the line so it won't leak gas all over.
Remove the throttle linkage and transmission kickdown linkage from the carburetor
Remove the transmission vacuum control module vacuum line from the back of the intake
Jack car up and PUT IT ON JACKSTANDS
Get under car:
Remove the starter
Remove the bottom four bellhousing bolts (2 on each side)
Remove the four nuts on the torque converter studs. Unless someone has removed it in the past, there will be an inspection cover on the bottom front of the bellhousing bellow the oil pan that you will need to take off to access the torque converter studs. You will have to turn the engine over to access all the converter nuts but this can be done by using a socket and ratchet on the crankshaft harmonic balancer bolt. You can make this easier by removing the spark plugs to allow compression to escape as you turn the engine over.
Unhook the exhaust pipes from the manifolds or headers
Remove the engine mount bolts that go through the frame mount
Lower the car:
Remove the headers if it has them. You can pull the engine with stock exhaust manifolds attached but not headers.
Remove the carburetor to get it out of the way.
Remove the power steering pump if it has one. Don't disconnect the hoses if you don't have to. Just lay it aside if you have enough room
Remove the A/C compressor if it has one. Again, don't unhook the lines if you don't have to.
You may want to remove the alternator and fan to get them out of the way but it is not neccessary.
Put a jack under the transmission pan to hold it up when you take the engine out. Be sure to use a block of wood on the jack to keep from denting the pan.
Pull the two upper bellhousing bolts.
You can now hook up your engine hoist and pull the engine.
For the transmission - Assuming you pull the engine first:
Jack the car up and PUT IT ON JACKSTANDS
Remove the transmission pan bolts and drain the transmission
Remove the dipstick tube
Remove the shifter linkage and unplug the neutral safety switch.
Remove the driveshaft. Be carefull that you don't loose the u-joint caps. Wrap electrical tape around the caps to keep them on.
Put a jack under the transmission pan. Use a piece of plywood to keep from denting the pan.
Remove the tranmission crossmember bolts
Lower the tranmission down and pull it out
Drain the coolant (easiest way is to remove lower hose) and remove the radiator
Drain the engine oil (not absolutely neccessary but it will keep from making a mess)
Disconnect the battery and all the electrical on the engine: Starter, alternator, coil, water temp and oil sending units, etc. (be sure to mark wires so you know where to put them back on)
Diconnect the fuel line from the fuel pump on the lower front driverside of the engine. Be sure to plug the line so it won't leak gas all over.
Remove the throttle linkage and transmission kickdown linkage from the carburetor
Remove the transmission vacuum control module vacuum line from the back of the intake
Jack car up and PUT IT ON JACKSTANDS
Get under car:
Remove the starter
Remove the bottom four bellhousing bolts (2 on each side)
Remove the four nuts on the torque converter studs. Unless someone has removed it in the past, there will be an inspection cover on the bottom front of the bellhousing bellow the oil pan that you will need to take off to access the torque converter studs. You will have to turn the engine over to access all the converter nuts but this can be done by using a socket and ratchet on the crankshaft harmonic balancer bolt. You can make this easier by removing the spark plugs to allow compression to escape as you turn the engine over.
Unhook the exhaust pipes from the manifolds or headers
Remove the engine mount bolts that go through the frame mount
Lower the car:
Remove the headers if it has them. You can pull the engine with stock exhaust manifolds attached but not headers.
Remove the carburetor to get it out of the way.
Remove the power steering pump if it has one. Don't disconnect the hoses if you don't have to. Just lay it aside if you have enough room
Remove the A/C compressor if it has one. Again, don't unhook the lines if you don't have to.
You may want to remove the alternator and fan to get them out of the way but it is not neccessary.
Put a jack under the transmission pan to hold it up when you take the engine out. Be sure to use a block of wood on the jack to keep from denting the pan.
Pull the two upper bellhousing bolts.
You can now hook up your engine hoist and pull the engine.
For the transmission - Assuming you pull the engine first:
Jack the car up and PUT IT ON JACKSTANDS
Remove the transmission pan bolts and drain the transmission
Remove the dipstick tube
Remove the shifter linkage and unplug the neutral safety switch.
Remove the driveshaft. Be carefull that you don't loose the u-joint caps. Wrap electrical tape around the caps to keep them on.
Put a jack under the transmission pan. Use a piece of plywood to keep from denting the pan.
Remove the tranmission crossmember bolts
Lower the tranmission down and pull it out
#4
Yes, you CAN but it's a pain in the ***. You have to have the car way up in the air in order for the transmission tailhousing to clear the floor because of the extreme angle you have to tilt the assembly at to get it to clear the radiator core support.
#5
I pulled the engine/C4 as one piece from my '67 w/o any trouble, used an engine leveler and it helped a lot with slowly tilting it as I rolled the hoist out ~6" at a time until I was clear. I don't remember jacking up the front at all, just tilting it more and more as it came out until I was clear of the firewall. Trying to find my pics but can't at the moment.
Be sure to do it outside, saw a post recently where someone tried to pull their engine in the garage and couldn't jack high enough because they were hitting the garage door/ceiling. They had to put the engine back in, roll it outside and start over.
Jon
Be sure to do it outside, saw a post recently where someone tried to pull their engine in the garage and couldn't jack high enough because they were hitting the garage door/ceiling. They had to put the engine back in, roll it outside and start over.
Jon
#6
You can pull them out together without jacking the car up at all. Just takes a second set of hands to guide the tail shaft out and some basic ingenuity. You will have to adjust the angle of the chain on the engine puller. Not too hard and makes it a lot easier IMHO.
#7
I agree. I put my engine and transmission in together. I'm actually pulling the transmission out right now, but can't do them together because I'm in college and my engine hoist is 300 miles away. Anyways, like 71Mach said, I've found it's easier to do them together if you have access to the equipment.
#10
Not sure if this is an active thread still, but I'm wanting to take out my straight 6 engine out of my 68 and leave the tranny in so I replace all the inner fenders, weld and paint without the engine in the way. Is this advisable? I just think it would be easier and safer with stuff out of the way.