Sxynerd

I'm planing out my next build (Which is kinda like daydreaming only more organized.) and since I'm going to be racing it, (65/66 coupe) I want to be able to manipulate the weight distribution by moving back the engine as far as possible for a closer 50/50 distribution.

• What is the farthest amount the engine can be mounted back before firewall and tunnel modifications need to be made?
• Does anyone make a prefabbed firewall for more clearance?
• Where can I find the weight distribution numbers for a stock 65/66 coupe?
• Has anyone here tackled weight distribution like this before?

phutch11

I looked into this when I was putting together my car. If you are running a standard four barrel intake, and you don't mind trimming the shifter hole, you should be able to push the engine back at least 3 inches.

You will need custom motor mounts though, and again if you are going to use a T5, you will have to trim the shifter hole substantially.

I have an efi setup and could not push the engine back due to interference with the export brace, so I never went this route.
You will need to check on the oil pan as well.

If you are intent on racing, you might consider another model mustang that can easily handle a wider tire up front.

Good luck...

Sxynerd

Thanks for the suggestion and the incite. The mustang will have flares and fatman (Or similar) up front. I'm tentative on a Dart Aluminum block and I'm going to need 5" to the rear with a TKO. I found some great info on VMF that's going to help out tremendously I think.

Without going nutso with the build, with the chassis stiffening and redistribution of weight from front to rear, I may be able to get to 52/48. (Even if I have to add weight to the rear by other means.) I know this will screw with my power to weight ratio but I'll just do what GM does, add more Hp without thinking, lol.

The other platforms of mustangs just don't appeal to me. 69's are ugly, 70's are alright and 71-73 I love but everyone else hates. They are also boats and wont be good for what I want to do. I've also chosen a Coupe for the easy to find and lower initial costs of the cars. It's crazy how much people thing mustangs are worth just because they are "Fastbacks". lol

67mustang302

Run an aluminum block, problem solved. Run dry sump lubrication and put the accumulator int he back seat and use a larger one. Use a cage that has a lot of reinforcement in the rear, run a 9" iron rear end. There are a lot of ways to move weight distribution around without chopping everything to bits and getting little in return. Even LOWERING the engine will have an impact on performance, even without changing weight distribution. Adjustable shocks too.

andrewmp6

I would check what racing class your going to runs rules first.Some say engine in stock location some just says engine bay.

phutch11

Don't worship weight distribution too much, short of class rules or safety equipment I would not add any weight to the car.

The trouble with adding weight is that then you do, you accelerate slower, your brakes are less effective, as are your tires. Removing weight makes everything work better.

Good luck....

stephen.osborne1

You didn't mention what type of racing you plan on... Drag racing requires different positioning, rules aside, than say, trans am.

Norm Peterson

And some say that while you can clearance the firewall for a variety of reasons, you CAN'T put any of the block or heads into any of the newly created clearance space.


sxy -
You need to know just what you'll be permitted to do before you can do it (or figure out how to use it to best advantage).

Then again, if it's an E-Modified solo car you've got a little more freedom, and if it's going to be a HPDE/PDX track day toy rather than a real wheel-to-wheel racer it probably doesn't matter.


Norm

JMD

Now I understand why I have ignored this thread until just now....

Sxynerd

Trans Am racing, since this is going to also be a DD with a change of the tires but weight distribution goes a long way even for a street cars drive ability. I know very little about the classes of racing since the last time I ran a road course was about 7 years ago with my 72 Nova. When I did that, they said, put on your helmet, slow is fast and stay out of everyones way. It looks like I'll be going with a Dart block and move it back just the few inches I can.

This build is going to be bigger than any of my previous project cars so I'm trying to plan it out nice and slow now. I'll be buying the car sometime before winter or there after. Right now I'm deciding between the 64/65 coupes (Maybe 67/68 coupe if a deal makes it worth my while.) or a 70 S/R. I figure the smaller 65/66 with an already less weight it would make a better car to start with but the 70 S/R would do good as well with a few more tweaks to handle the more weight.

What do you guys think is going to be a better car to start with 64/65 coupe or a 70 sport roof?

IDK whos cars these are but the first one is the look I'd like to emulate and the second is PS of someones almost stock 70.



My PS