mortman

One thing after another…………. Will it ever end?
Ok several issues

• OEM gauges all suck, I think we can all agree J
• I started rewiring my car last year, I did the gauge cluster except the amp gauge, oil, temp and tac worked. Spedo and fuel has not been addressed at this point.
• Yesterday I installed the gauge cluster and wired the amp gauge, now I hardly get a reading on the oil and temp gauges. I am getting power to the both gauges (tested with test light), IVR is new what gives?

So. I picked up a cheap set of gauges today Volt, temp and oil pressure (mechanical), I will mount them in the engine bay and mount in the morning. My question is what size gauges in the instrument panel, 5” I know, but the others? Also what about the 6th gauge? Where to mount? By 6th gauge I mean, there’s 2, 5” (spedo and tac) then 4 others fuel, water, volts and oil pressure. One is going to SOL. I would like to keep my cluster housing, it was expensive.



any suggestions on gauge manufacturer?

tx65coupe

In my opinion the new replacement ICVR modules are not very good. I bought a 2-3 of them over the last few years. My original one still functions. None of the new ones worked right at all. They either did nothing, or the gauges would constantly fluctuate up and down, or they would just read way too high. I recommend buying the electronic version. I think NPD has it. You can also make your own. See here.

http://chris66dad.tripod.com/id29.html

ic237

You can get a good solid state regulator one on ebay for 20 bucks.http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...%3AMESELX%3AIT

Have you tested your gauges?

You can get a 100 ohm pot and a use the voltage regulator. Apply 12v to the regulator and make sure you have 5 volts (avg) coming out. Its really important to get a solid 5 out the regulator. What works pretty well is like an old 5v plug or charger thats laying around in the house. It needs to deliver 1/4 amp without dropping below 5v.

I also forgot to add that each gauge should ohm out at about 12.5ish.

Adjust your pot to 10 ohms. Ground one end of your pot , and connect the other to the sender input on the gauge. Your fuel , temp, and oil gauge are the same with different markings. So start from the left and work your way to the right.
At 10 ohms all gauges should be right at the max line.
At 15 ohms all gauges should be at 3/4 sweep.
at 20 ohms all gauges should be at 1/2 sweep
at 40 ohms all gauges should be at 1/4 sweep.

MBDiagMan

Rather than tweaking on all the gauges, I think the first suggestion of getting a good voltage regulator is a better suggestion. There are plenty of 5V regulators available that are in TO5 packages that look like a Power Transistor. Just mount one on a heat sink and you've got what you need.

As everyone else, I believe that the problem is indeed the Voltage Regulator. Put a DC Voltmeter on it and see what it reads with key on, engine off.

Don't get discouraged! You're making good headway, just stay after it.

I have a gauge set under my hood so that I can leave the dash looking stock.

ic237

the tests aren't tweeking anything. They are tests to prove the gauges work properly. He did state that he had power coming out the regulator.

MBDiagMan

My bad habit of quickly perusing posts is showing up again.