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Old 04-25-2010, 09:21 PM   #11
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'67-68 is much easier to convert to v8 than the 64-66. basically you need to replace the engine, trans, driveshaft, rear axle, springs and shocks, brakes, wheels. since you're doing a full restoration, you're really not looking at much more cost or time than restoring the I6. you can use any 65 or later (5-bolt) 289,302 or 351, including the post-86 (94 for the 351) roller cam engines. i've seen complete running gear out of a v8 car for under $300.

the i6 is definitely sort of rare to see anymore but it's definitely nice to have v8 power and the 302 is easier to find performance parts for.

making a list of todo items is a great idea and it's definitely important to keep working at a consistent pace. it's very easy to stop working on the car and then 2-days becomes 2-months becomes 2-years and the car just sits there rotting.

as for the trunk, replace it. looking at the car, the trunklid is going to be the easiest rust to fix by far
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Old 04-25-2010, 09:30 PM   #12
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Welcome and be sure to ask about upgrades or preferrable brand parts before buying anything new, there are often better parts for the same price. One example is the gas tank, be sure to get a N.American tank (US or Canada made), I think I've read that Scott Drake makes a quality tank too, his company makes a lot of repop parts. If you would like more miles per tank the '70 tank is almost identical (mounts same) but holds 22gal. vs. '68 16gal. You will need the '70 sending unit for your gauge to read correctly and you'll need to tweek the filler neck to line up as the '70 neck points down at less of an angle than the '68. The extra 6 gals. come from the top of the tank being ~2" taller so it sits about level with the trunk floor. You're going to need a new tank and I wouldn't trust your sending unit.

Forum wise try to focus your questions on one section or part at a time as too many areas at once will go unanswered sometimes.

I'm not a body/paint guy so I can't tell you what order, etc. but I did a lot of light rust removal from frame areas and parts with a wire wheel, then used self etching primer and paint. It's slow and messy but gets in the grooves well.

Looks like a good starter project, if you stay with the 6cyl. there are things you can do with it to make it better too adding hp and mpg. There's a 6cyl. specific website for the engine improvements maybe someone will post it. You can usually find someone upgrading to a different engine and you can get there's for a great price that has already been gone through.
"If it isn't broke I haven't fixed it yet" - Jon

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Old 04-25-2010, 09:37 PM   #13
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Old 04-25-2010, 09:56 PM   #14
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Good luck saving this car! Looking forward to following your progress.

The Dream - courtesy of Fabulous Fords Forever 2010.
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Old 04-25-2010, 10:19 PM   #15
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I would just replace the trunk lid, get a used one for sure, pretty easy to find im sure. As for the gas tank good think you pulled that. Get a 70 22 gallon if you can, that's a good replacement.
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Old 04-25-2010, 10:35 PM   #16
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If you really want to go from a 6 to an 8, you didn't mention the wheels and brakes. You'll want to go to 5 lug and larger brakes. While disk brakes are great, bear in mind that drums served the Mustangs well.
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Old 04-25-2010, 11:34 PM   #17
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71Mach - will a '70 22 gallon fit in a 67FB as well w/ no problems? What is the tank capacity in earlier years?

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Old 04-26-2010, 05:22 AM   #18
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Man, You sure moved fast on tearing it down.
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Old 04-26-2010, 08:14 AM   #19
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The 6cyl specific forum website is and has 6cyl specific performance parts if you want to take the route.

Good luck, keep us posted on your progress, and don't be afraid to ask questions as we were all mustang newbies at one point in time.
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Old 04-26-2010, 08:20 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by tx65coupe View Post
Man, You sure moved fast on tearing it down.
Haha thanks, like I said, I'm eager to get to work!

I'm still waiting for the guy with the V8 parts to get back to me. So no updates there.

Last night I took out the wiring to the back. So I wouldn't get confused, I put pieces of painting tape on each end of the wire (where it connects in the dashboard) and numbered them correspondingly so I wouldn't get them confused when re-installing. I also recorded their locations on a sheet of paper. Simple way to add some re-assurance.

Since I'm working from front to back, my next problem would be the doors. What should I do about them? I'm sure I need to remove the glass, but what would be the best process of disassembling the door? The door panel and cranks are already removed.

Thanks again guys for the support! It's invaluable information to me!
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