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Resto-mod project

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Old 05-02-2010, 08:34 PM   #41
hightower2011
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Alright guys. Got busy with the SAT this weekend so I didn't get too much done, but I did manage to take off the window trim on the body, put the front end up on jack stands (had to go buy a pair) and vacuum the entire car (you wouldn't believe how much rust, dirt, and crap had piled up in the floor pans). So I didn't get much done but I have a question.
How do I remove the trim above the window on the outside of the body?
This:

Click the image to open in full size.


Also, what should my next course of action be? Like I said before, I'm not sure what needs to be done, and stuff I've removed is stuff I knew had to go eventually.
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Old 05-02-2010, 08:52 PM   #42
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I made my own blast cabinet from 1/2 plywood and put it on rollers. Mine is not completely enclosed because I do some larger parts (rearend housings). I picked up my blaster & nozzles @ a swap meet for $25.

I have a 10 hp 220v compressor run through a dryer to the gun. I use black magic media. It cuts really well and is cheap I get it from Menards $9 for 60lbs. Since my cabinet isn't sealed I lose some of my media, but I reclaim about 85% of it. When I want to refurbish aluminum I use glass bead that I get at the local Harbor Freight.

Keep on working, you're doing great so far.
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Old 05-02-2010, 09:03 PM   #43
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The trim needs to be unscrewed, look at the very front tip for an additional screw usualy hidden by crud. It is then held on by double sided tape that you can carefully pry away starting at one side and slowly working to the other.
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Old 05-02-2010, 09:11 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racer_dave View Post
I made my own blast cabinet from 1/2 plywood and put it on rollers. Mine is not completely enclosed because I do some larger parts (rearend housings). I picked up my blaster & nozzles @ a swap meet for $25.

I have a 10 hp 220v compressor run through a dryer to the gun. I use black magic media. It cuts really well and is cheap I get it from Menards $9 for 60lbs. Since my cabinet isn't sealed I lose some of my media, but I reclaim about 85% of it. When I want to refurbish aluminum I use glass bead that I get at the local Harbor Freight.

Keep on working, you're doing great so far.
That sounds like a good idea! Do you have a pic or two to give me an idea of how you did it?
Building my own sounds better than buying one. That way I can build it as big as I want (within reason) to fit it within my needs.

It's simple ideas like these I wish my brain would think of.


Quote:
Originally Posted by tcrote5516 View Post
The trim needs to be unscrewed, look at the very front tip for an additional screw usualy hidden by crud. It is then held on by double sided tape that you can carefully pry away starting at one side and slowly working to the other.
Ah, I never looked there, thank you. (I was just looking at your thread, kinda ironic, haha. Congrats on the win though, your mustang looks incredible!)
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Old 05-02-2010, 09:45 PM   #45
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For the drip rail chrome, I use a dead blow hammer or a rubber headed hammer and start from the front and hit it from the under side out and take it off. Just go slow it will come right off.
P.S. There are no screws anywhere on the drip rail chrome.

Last edited by Angliagasser; 05-02-2010 at 09:48 PM.
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Old 05-03-2010, 08:58 PM   #46
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Little update. I'm probably gonna go get a rear axle and front spindles to do my 5 lug conversion later this week. Total is $200. $50 for each front spindle (have been sandblasted) and $100 for the rear end, which is kinda dirty.
Sound good? Any better recommendations?


Also, I need some help removing the steering column and wheel. Right now I'm not quite sure how to get it and the steering wheel out.

Oh, and one more question. I was wondering what the newest (latest model) mustang engine I can put in my 1968 would be? Without major modification of course. I've heard of late '70s model engines being put in and was wondering what else can go in.



Thanks again guys. I've got a few books (including a shop manual) in the mail from amazon, but until then I'm afraid I'll have simple questions like these, haha.
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Old 05-03-2010, 09:00 PM   #47
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You don't need spindles. Just all the V8 brake parts. For 67 the I6 and V8 spindles were the same. $100 for a good rear end is a decent price.

Below is a PDF I made of my conversion. Maybe it will help some.
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File Type: pdf 4 to 5 lug swap (2) (1).pdf (99.2 KB, 22 views)
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Old 05-03-2010, 09:24 PM   #48
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anything other than a modular engine will fit into the 67 i beleive, even big blocks.
and you'll probably need a steering wheel puller for the steering wheel
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Old 05-03-2010, 10:22 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by BA Mustang View Post
You don't need spindles. Just all the V8 brake parts. For 67 the I6 and V8 spindles were the same. $100 for a good rear end is a decent price.

Below is a PDF I made of my conversion. Maybe it will help some.
Awesome! Great write up! If you could embed those pics, it'd be even better, but I'm not complaining, it's exactly what I needed!

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Originally Posted by racin66coupe View Post
anything other than a modular engine will fit into the 67 i beleive, even big blocks.
and you'll probably need a steering wheel puller for the steering wheel
I may be getting into something I can't handle, but I'd be especially interested in putting a 1990s mustang engine in there.
I think I'll make another thread in the general discussion to ask about this so it doesn't clutter this one.


And I'll pick up a steering wheel puller from an auto parts store tomorrow. Thanks for that tip, I shoulda known.
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Old 05-03-2010, 10:30 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hightower2011 View Post
Awesome! Great write up! If you could embed those pics, it'd be even better, but I'm not complaining, it's exactly what I needed!
Yeah, I thought the links worked, but it seems you have to copy and paste them. Its been close to a year since I did that swap.
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Old 05-03-2010, 11:02 PM   #51
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Yeah, I thought the links worked, but it seems you have to copy and paste them. Its been close to a year since I did that swap.
Hey, they work for me! I'm happy you took the time to take pictures!
Lots of people just expect you to understand what they're saying, not realizing I'm no gearhead, haha.
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Old 05-04-2010, 01:35 PM   #52
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Yes you can put a late model 5.0 in the car. You will need to grab the computer from the donor car as well.
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Old 05-04-2010, 07:10 PM   #53
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Got the steering wheel off today but then ran into a major speed bump.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tcrote5516 View Post
The trim needs to be unscrewed, look at the very front tip for an additional screw usualy hidden by crud. It is then held on by double sided tape that you can carefully pry away starting at one side and slowly working to the other.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Angliagasser View Post
For the drip rail chrome, I use a dead blow hammer or a rubber headed hammer and start from the front and hit it from the under side out and take it off. Just go slow it will come right off.
P.S. There are no screws anywhere on the drip rail chrome.
The drip rail is NOT coming off. I don't know what I could be doing wrong. I checked for the screw to make sure and it wasn't there. I then began to try to get it off. I tried to tap/hit it off with a hammer (I didn't go smashing at it, just methodically hitting it but not damaging it). I then tried wedging a screw driver when the front came off a little, but it didn't work well at all. Can someone help? I'm not getting anywhere.
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Old 05-04-2010, 11:30 PM   #54
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It take a liitle bit to get them started (drip rail) but once it starts you just have to work it off. I have always used either a dead blow hammer or a rubber hammer. I have taken off more then I care to remember. You have to start at one end or the other. The more I think about it I always started at the front. If you do not have a rubber or a dead blow hammer, use a small piece of wood to put against the under side of the chrome and hit it from the inside of the car out. You do have the chrome that holds the window rubber off don't you? That way it is easier to get to the back side of the under side of the drip rail chrome.
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Old 05-05-2010, 07:40 AM   #55
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Can I get a clarification as to what your trying to remove?

Drip rail trim decorative and is held on by tension only, no screws no tape. This needs to be pryed off from the bottom.

Door seal trim (about the same shape just much thicker) This is what holds the large rubber door/window gaskets. This is held on with multiple screws and double sided tape.

Which one are you having trouble with???
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Old 05-05-2010, 07:52 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tcrote5516 View Post
Can I get a clarification as to what your trying to remove?

Drip rail trim decorative and is held on by tension only, no screws no tape. This needs to be pryed off from the bottom.

Door seal trim (about the same shape just much thicker) This is what holds the large rubber door/window gaskets. This is held on with multiple screws and double sided tape.

Which one are you having trouble with???
I already removed the door seal trim. A few of the screws were stripped but I got it off.

It is indeed the drip rail trim that I'm having trouble with. And as you mentioned, there appears to be no tape of screws. However, it is rusted pretty bad (since water gathers there) so the rust could be causing a bind, perhaps?


Thanks for the help!
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Old 05-05-2010, 07:57 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Angliagasser View Post
You do have the chrome that holds the window rubber off don't you? That way it is easier to get to the back side of the under side of the drip rail chrome.
And yes I already have it off. It seems the screws of the door seal trim actually help hold the drip rail trim in place as they run through a thin sheet of metal (attached to the drip rail) and then into the body. But like I said, I removed the door trim before I even started on the drip rail trim.

Last edited by hightower2011; 05-05-2010 at 08:40 AM.
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Old 05-16-2010, 09:36 PM   #58
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Update!

Ok so I decided for sure I wanted to go V8, so i started searching for this part, that part, this engine, that tranny, etc...

It all added up pretty high if I bought it all separately, and that was all hoping it would fit together. I also would need to rebuild an engine and transmission if I wanted to get it for cheap.

But then I got an idea, why not just find another mustang/cougar in V8 configuration but in bad-ish condition, and swap over? Well, i got luckier than I would've expected:

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

OUCH:
Click the image to open in full size.

Ouch from another angle:
Click the image to open in full size.

The Perilous Pair!
Click the image to open in full size.


So I bought another mustang for $1800, and I'm fairly certain it was worth it. Right now it doesn't run but that's due to something with the fuel line. Pouring gas directly in the carb this baby roars! It has a dual exhaust and sounds incredible! No knocking around, coughing, or smoke! So either a new fuel line or pump should fix that.

Now, you've probably noticed the giant gash in the side. The mustang got t-boned going through a stop sign and then retired a few years ago. the door and rear quarter panel are destroyed but surprisingly, the floor pans took no damage, and shockingly, both the windows remained intact! I've even got the rear window section cut out (by previous owner) and I'll take a pic of it tomorrow, it's all gnarled up, haha.


So, after consulting with the previous owner (a car restorer himself) I have determined that I MIGHT be able to repair it. He gave me a brand new entire rear quarter panel, and another door. (I will still need structural parts from somewhere...) So once I get a welder, I'll be practicing night and day on scrap to prepare for that job, should I choose that route.


No before you guys call me crazy for buying 2 mustangs, here's a few advantages to this one:

-New Black Upholstery on all seats (I knew from the start I wanted a black interior)
-New chrome bumpers
-New front and rear valances
-New front windshield
-New tail light bezels
-Lots of new Chrome trim
-"New brake assemblies all around" ***Have to confirm this***
-Already set up and running V8
-Pretty sure it has power brakes
-No where near as much rust on both body and underneath
-Overall, much more intact than the blue mustang, haha


Not too much, but that takes a few hundred bucks off my price list! And I have no doubt that I would've spent more if I bought the parts separately.



Now, as far as what my plans are now, I've got 2 possible plans:


1. Use the black mustang as my base. Besides the driver side, it is in 500 times better condition. It has MUCH less rust and if I can only fix that driver side damage, it will be a perfect base, not to mention it's already set up for V8. In this case, I can probably keep the blue mustang to restore later OR I can use body parts from it on the black mustang, if I decide to.

2. Swap over the suspension, tranny, and engine into the blue mustang. The problem is that the blue body has MUCH more rust, and will require body work as well. Not to mention the time consumption of repairing the rust as well as the swap over.


I'm leaning towards plan #1.

Overall to be honest I wish I had found this mustang first, but I'm just as happy to have 2 mustangs to restore, 1 for now, 1 for later.

Last edited by hightower2011; 05-17-2010 at 07:15 AM.
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Old 05-16-2010, 09:48 PM   #59
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Oh and more pics and info to come tomorrow!
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Old 05-16-2010, 10:00 PM   #60
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so, what exactly is the plan?
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Old 05-16-2010, 10:00 PM
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