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Old 04-27-2010, 07:08 AM   #31
Bitter
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Quote:
Question:
What is the name for the rubber stuff that sat between the window and outside of the door? The strip that was attached to the door.
I had to tear it out and subsequently broke it, although it was in bad condition anyways.
Is this what you are talking about?

http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/ite...asp?T1=M162+01
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Old 04-27-2010, 08:15 AM   #32
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soda blasters will only take off paint and there have been rumors that the soda, if not totally removed, will cause paint adhesion problems. cabinet sand blasters are great for small parts though. much easier and quicker to use than a regular blaster.

you really should buy the ford service manual. it's the best $60 you will spend on your restoration. don't even waste your time or money on other manuals.
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Old 04-27-2010, 10:29 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by Bitter View Post
Is this what you are talking about?

http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/ite...asp?T1=M162+01
Exactly what I needed! Thanks!

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Originally Posted by jcoby View Post
soda blasters will only take off paint and there have been rumors that the soda, if not totally removed, will cause paint adhesion problems. cabinet sand blasters are great for small parts though. much easier and quicker to use than a regular blaster.

you really should buy the ford service manual. it's the best $60 you will spend on your restoration. don't even waste your time or money on other manuals.
What kind of cabinet blaster do you recommend? That sounds like a great idea for me. There are lots of small parts that could use rust removal on my mustang right now.

I'm not sure about a soda blaster, with the back and forth stories. I know the main issue is the "film" left behind, and it's supposedly removed with WARM soap water. I'd be glad to wash it multiple times to get the film off as soda blasting seems to be the easiest and most effective method for removing paint for me right now.


I was considering this: http://www.eastwood.com/soda-blaster...t-w-media.html

Both a media and soda blaster. If soda doesn't work out, I can still use the sandblaster part of it on the rust I have.

Thoughts?

Last edited by hightower2011; 04-27-2010 at 11:45 AM.
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Old 04-27-2010, 01:14 PM   #34
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Make sure you check the cfm rating on your compressor before you buy it. Anything less than a 220V compressor may be insufficient.
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Old 04-27-2010, 08:43 PM   #35
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Make sure you check the cfm rating on your compressor before you buy it. Anything less than a 220V compressor may be insufficient.
Damn, I might have to recheck but I'm pretty sure our compressor is only 120 volts.

New compressor suggestions? haha
Along with thoughts on that sand/soda blaster?



Update for today, I got the driver side front and rear windows out, so now all the glass is removed! Hooray!
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Old 04-27-2010, 09:03 PM   #36
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Before you decide to soda blast, you really need to read this Wiki article put together by professional painters. I think after you read it you wil not consider soda because of the problems you could have. Just not worth it...
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Soda_blasting

Most epoxy paint manufactures warn against it and some say it will void their paint warranty.

Lots more info on this professional paint forum:
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/body-exterior/

Everyone recommends against it...
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Old 04-27-2010, 09:24 PM   #37
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[IMG]Click the image to open in full size.[/IMG]

You can use 2 air compressors to get the CFM you need.
This is the set up I used when I painted the 66.

We used 2 air compressors (110volts and 7cfm @ 50psi) on DIFFERENT electrical circuits to get the 10 CFM of air volume the spray gun needed. The compressor regulators were set to 90psi and they were T'eed into the air dryer with 25 foot hoses which helped cool the air and allow the water to condense.

The air dryer regulator was set to 50 PSI (wall pressure). The gun was set for about 10psi at the nozzle. We never ran out of air pressure even on long shoots.
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Father~Son Restoration 66 coupe A code
289 4v, Roller Rockers, Electric fan
Performer & 650 Edelbrock
MSD ignition
Tri Y into 2.25 Shelby side exhaust
T5 conversion and 3.55 Trac Lok rear gears
Hydraulic clutch
CSRP SN95 Disks
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Old 04-27-2010, 09:31 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by chris66dad View Post
Before you decide to soda blast, you really need to read this Wiki article put together by professional painters. I think after you read it you wil not consider soda because of the problems you could have. Just not worth it...
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Soda_blasting

Most epoxy paint manufactures warn against it and some say it will void their paint warranty.

Lots more info on this professional paint forum:
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/body-exterior/

Everyone recommends against it...
Well, I can't argue that. I read three threads on it with a few "eh, it worked for me" and a majority of "DON'T DO IT", haha, so I'll officially pass on a soda blaster.

I guess I gotta look elsewhere! Other suggestions? I heard plastic media is too expensive, sand will warp... etc.
I really would prefer opinions from you guys as fellow mustang owners because you guys have used them on your mustangs, and know the effects and results.


And I'll talk to my dad about the compressor. He might be open to getting one similar to ours but higher powered. That might not be a bad idea cause even if it's not 220v, I can still "T" them like you did.

Thanks for the help guys! I really can't express how helpful this is. I've never experienced this kind of advice and support, and once I finish my mustang I'll be sure to pass it on!
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Old 04-30-2010, 12:49 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris66dad View Post

You can use 2 air compressors to get the CFM you need.
This is the set up I used when I painted the 66.

We used 2 air compressors (110volts and 7cfm @ 50psi) on DIFFERENT electrical circuits to get the 10 CFM of air volume the spray gun needed. The compressor regulators were set to 90psi and they were T'eed into the air dryer with 25 foot hoses which helped cool the air and allow the water to condense.

The air dryer regulator was set to 50 PSI (wall pressure). The gun was set for about 10psi at the nozzle. We never ran out of air pressure even on long shoots.
Sheer genius! I have two 110V compressors and never even considered that. What I can't figure out is how you connected two hoses to one inlet. Does someone make a tee connector?
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Old 04-30-2010, 01:00 PM   #40
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Used a pipe tee and a nipple from the hardware store and bought the quick disconnect air fittings from Harbor freight to match the hose connections. Cost was 5-10 dollars for the parts.
Bleed down the system before you disconnect the hoses because they will back feed the pressure through the Tee if you disconnect one. It wakes you up pretty quick, believe me.

Here are pictures of my backyard paint booth and the air compressor set up:
http://chris66dad.tripod.com/id24.html
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Father~Son Restoration 66 coupe A code
289 4v, Roller Rockers, Electric fan
Performer & 650 Edelbrock
MSD ignition
Tri Y into 2.25 Shelby side exhaust
T5 conversion and 3.55 Trac Lok rear gears
Hydraulic clutch
CSRP SN95 Disks

Last edited by chris66dad; 04-30-2010 at 01:37 PM.
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Old 04-30-2010, 01:00 PM
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