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Resto-mod project

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Old 08-22-2010, 07:14 PM   #81
hightower2011
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Update, got lots of tools today. Feels like Christmas :
-NT 90 lb Sandblaster (god my compressor is going to hate me, I won't get but a few minutes of sandblasting without straining that little compressor)
-200 lbs of black diamond media
-Lincoln 180 welder
-Grinder (old one broke on me)
-Dewalt Drill (My old man got sick of me using his that he keeps up at the house, haha)
-Dewalt Many different abrasive and cutting heads for the grinder
-Many different abrasive heads for the drill
-Replacement off road casters (since I'm blasting with my rotisserie outside)

Click the image to open in full size.

And I got outdoor casters to replace my indoor ones. I'm doing all my sandblasting outside so the floor casters won't work well, if at all.
Click the image to open in full size.


Gotta get practicing with welding and sandblasting! I plan to sand the whole body of the car, and use the sandblaster for the engine bay and underside.
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Last edited by hightower2011; 08-22-2010 at 10:34 PM.
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Old 08-23-2010, 05:34 PM   #82
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too bad you don't live in NJ i would definitely offer my assistance.

Do keep posting the pictures of the progress. how do you plan on practicing sandblasting?
you probably meant media blasting
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Old 08-23-2010, 07:59 PM   #83
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too bad you don't live in NJ i would definitely offer my assistance.

Do keep posting the pictures of the progress. how do you plan on practicing sandblasting?
you probably meant media blasting
I would hope media. I'm in NJ and used Hyers to media blast my car. Plastic to remove the paint and a quick shot of oxide so the primer would have something to stick to. Didn't want to spend the money but in the end the car was completely clean. They did a fantastic job. Only downside, still trying to get all the media out of everything. When you think you got it all, shoot air down the rocker and more dust comes out.

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Old 08-23-2010, 10:29 PM   #84
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too bad you don't live in NJ i would definitely offer my assistance.

Do keep posting the pictures of the progress. how do you plan on practicing sandblasting?
you probably meant media blasting
Yes, sorry, media, seeing as that's what I got, haha. I'm gonna practice on my old trunk lid, to see how it goes, but like I said I'll probably just sand the body using my grinder with an abrasive pad.

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I would hope media. I'm in NJ and used Hyers to media blast my car. Plastic to remove the paint and a quick shot of oxide so the primer would have something to stick to. Didn't want to spend the money but in the end the car was completely clean. They did a fantastic job. Only downside, still trying to get all the media out of everything. When you think you got it all, shoot air down the rocker and more dust comes out.

You might try a leaf blower to get some crap out, haha.

Did you do anything special about the cowl? I've seen people cut open the sides, cut it off completely, etc. And I'm wondering what to do about mine. I see no visible rust except where the water flows out the sides.

Also, do you know what media they used?

Thanks!
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Old 08-24-2010, 08:45 AM   #85
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Yes, sorry, media, seeing as that's what I got, haha. I'm gonna practice on my old trunk lid, to see how it goes, but like I said I'll probably just sand the body using my grinder with an abrasive pad.



You might try a leaf blower to get some crap out, haha.

Did you do anything special about the cowl? I've seen people cut open the sides, cut it off completely, etc. And I'm wondering what to do about mine. I see no visible rust except where the water flows out the sides.

Also, do you know what media they used?

Thanks!
The cowl was cut out and replace by the previous owner, however based on the other work I saw on the car I wanted to get back in there to clean it out, hit the seams with epoxy sealer and get everything covered in a good paint. Ended up cutting out the two end vents on either side of top of the cowl. Removed the silicon caulk they used on the seams, got it clean, put down SEM epoxy seam sealer then POR15 over everything followed by tie coat primer. The 2 vents are filled solid, don't really need 6 and with all the other changes happening to the car keeping it original isn't a concern.

Not sure what the media was, for paint removal it was plastic. The pieces that I'm still finding are white. The oxide left a great surface for the primer.

Leaf blower, compressor you name it. The stuff just seems to hide and multiply. We're finding less and less these days.

I'll give Hyers a call sometime this week and ask him what the media was that he used. They really seemed to know their stuff when it came to blasting cars, metal stretch etc.
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Old 08-24-2010, 09:08 AM   #86
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The best thing to get the media out that it was blasted with leave it on the trailer and find a nice bumpy road,It will shake all the stuff out.
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Old 08-24-2010, 11:31 AM   #87
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The cowl was cut out and replace by the previous owner, however based on the other work I saw on the car I wanted to get back in there to clean it out, hit the seams with epoxy sealer and get everything covered in a good paint. Ended up cutting out the two end vents on either side of top of the cowl. Removed the silicon caulk they used on the seams, got it clean, put down SEM epoxy seam sealer then POR15 over everything followed by tie coat primer. The 2 vents are filled solid, don't really need 6 and with all the other changes happening to the car keeping it original isn't a concern.

Not sure what the media was, for paint removal it was plastic. The pieces that I'm still finding are white. The oxide left a great surface for the primer.

Leaf blower, compressor you name it. The stuff just seems to hide and multiply. We're finding less and less these days.

I'll give Hyers a call sometime this week and ask him what the media was that he used. They really seemed to know their stuff when it came to blasting cars, metal stretch etc.
Thanks, I'd appreciate the knowledge.
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The best thing to get the media out that it was blasted with leave it on the trailer and find a nice bumpy road,It will shake all the stuff out.
So I should push my rotisserie down a hill when I'm done sandblasting?

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Old 08-24-2010, 01:46 PM   #88
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Originally Posted by mr_velocity View Post
I'm in NJ and used Hyers to media blast my car. Plastic to remove the paint and a quick shot of oxide so the primer would have something to stick to. Didn't want to spend the money but in the end the car was completely clean. They did a fantastic job.

Mr. Velocity can you recommend reputable car shops in NJ. I found one in Boonton but the problem was that they never bothered to call back with an appraisal or even bothered to reply my email. Not cool.

how much did the media blasting set you back?
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Old 08-24-2010, 01:54 PM   #89
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Mr. Velocity can you recommend reputable car shops in NJ. I found one in Boonton but the problem was that they never bothered to call back with an appraisal or even bothered to reply my email. Not cool.

how much did the media blasting set you back?
Blast was right around $1000, I can't remember if it was just above or just below. I had the car complete disassembled before I took it there. I like the guys at Hyers in Toms River, they knew their stuff and didn't try to sell me on stuff I don't need.

For motor work I'm using Jeff Arnseth, JTL Automotive in Keyport. I just met him but friends have been using him for more than 20 years. He's a good guy and from what I hear an awesome machinist.
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Old 08-24-2010, 07:31 PM   #90
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See that's why I'm doing the media blasting myself. (and all my work really)
I simply can't afford to pay someone to do it for me.
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Old 08-24-2010, 09:28 PM   #91
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Blast was right around $1000, I can't remember if it was just above or just below. I had the car complete disassembled before I took it there. I like the guys at Hyers in Toms River, they knew their stuff and didn't try to sell me on stuff I don't need.

For motor work I'm using Jeff Arnseth, JTL Automotive in Keyport. I just met him but friends have been using him for more than 20 years. He's a good guy and from what I hear an awesome machinist.
1K is very doable and I plan on dis-assembly myself, also it saves on cost of labor. Does that also cover the oxide and primer?

Toms River is not far from me. I'm in Bayonne. Thanks for the info

Last edited by Rols574; 08-24-2010 at 09:32 PM.
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Old 08-25-2010, 08:36 AM   #92
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1K is very doable and I plan on dis-assembly myself, also it saves on cost of labor. Does that also cover the oxide and primer?

Toms River is not far from me. I'm in Bayonne. Thanks for the info
The cost is just the media blasting, both with the plastic and the oxide. I primed myself when I got the car home.

Bought the paint last night PPG DBC tri-coat, will be shooting some test panels as soon as the rain stops. First time shooting a tri-coat so this is going to be an interesting shoot. Hopefully I don't screw it up.

Last edited by mr_velocity; 08-25-2010 at 08:40 AM.
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Old 08-25-2010, 09:29 PM   #93
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The cost is just the media blasting, both with the plastic and the oxide. I primed myself when I got the car home.

Bought the paint last night PPG DBC tri-coat, will be shooting some test panels as soon as the rain stops. First time shooting a tri-coat so this is going to be an interesting shoot. Hopefully I don't screw it up.
Dont want to hijack this guy's thread, so mr_velocity do you have a thread with your progress?
by the way check your PM's
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Old 08-29-2010, 07:28 PM   #94
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Click the image to open in full size.

God, working under the dash is a lot harder than I expected. I took a bunch of stuff out, and I'm less than halfway through. I hope to have the dash/firewall finished soon. After that, ROTISSERIE TIME!!!!!!!!!



Also, I have a question. I located a 302 motor from a '66 mustang. I think I can get it for $300, and it "ran when last used". While we all know not to trust that phrase, I'm gonna have to rebuild or at least get a mechanic to do some work on my 289 before I drive it anyways. So I thought it might not be a bad idea to pick up this 302 and use it. Also noteworthy, it's a 4 barrel, my 289 is a 2 barrel. Plus, this engine appears to be in great condition, even better than my 289.

Pics from craigslist:
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

Description:
Small block Ford 302 engine just removed from a 1966 Mustang. E7TE CA cast iron 1987 block. Engine comes complete from
oil pan to Weiand aluminum 4 barrel intake manifold. Including: cast iron heads, newer model alternator, valve covers, water pump,
cam, exhaust manifolds, distributor, plugs and plug wires, coil, flex fan, etc... Engine uses serpentine belt to power water pump and
alternator. Engine runs fine. A little cleaning and maybe some paint and it could be ready to drop in any number of Ford cars or trucks.








Thoughts????
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Old 08-30-2010, 10:36 AM   #95
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If it came out of a car it has a roller cam. If it came out of a GT mustang it has a roller cam and FORGED pistons
For $300 that is a good deal.
Buy it.
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Old 08-30-2010, 11:25 AM   #96
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If it came out of a car it has a roller cam. If it came out of a GT mustang it has a roller cam and FORGED pistons
For $300 that is a good deal.
Buy it.

this is not true 100% 93+ 5.0 ho motors didnt have forged pistons even the cobra didnt have them
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Old 08-30-2010, 01:02 PM   #97
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regardless, if it's an E6 or later block it should have the large base circle cam journals and extra depth in the lifter bores to install a roller cam. you may need to drill a couple of holes for the spider. i don't know if they milled the non-roller blocks for the dogbones or not.

the real crapshoot is whether or not it's been bored. i bought a $300 roller block that the owner said wasn't bored to find out it's already a worn out .040 over. I got everything but the upper intake so it wasn't a bad deal but still annoying.
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Old 08-30-2010, 03:12 PM   #98
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forged-aluminum pistons, a hydraulic-roller camshaft, a double-roller timing set, and stamped 1.6:1 nonadjustable rocker arms. Rated static compression runs around 9.0:1 with the stock cast-iron E7TE cylinder heads, which are equipped with puny 1.78/1.46-inch intake/exhaust valves and nominal 60cc chambers.

If you rebuild why not stroke it?
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Old 08-30-2010, 09:25 PM   #99
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forged-aluminum pistons, a hydraulic-roller camshaft, a double-roller timing set, and stamped 1.6:1 nonadjustable rocker arms. Rated static compression runs around 9.0:1 with the stock cast-iron E7TE cylinder heads, which are equipped with puny 1.78/1.46-inch intake/exhaust valves and nominal 60cc chambers.

If you rebuild why not stroke it?
Good point. You've got a stroked 302 right? 347?


And thanks for the advice guys. I think I'm gonna jump on it.
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Old 08-31-2010, 08:29 AM   #100
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if you stroke it, consider doing a 331 instead of a 347 if you plan on driving it a lot. the 347 has increased oil consumption due to the oil control ring being exposed by the pin hole.
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Old 08-31-2010, 08:29 AM
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