Go Back   MustangForums.com > Ford Mustang Tech > Classic Mustangs (Tech)
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?
Search


Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

Welcome to Mustang Forums!
Welcome to Mustang Forums.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!


Reply
 
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05-02-2010, 09:34 PM   #41
hightower2011
4th Gear Member
 
hightower2011's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Vehicle: 1968 Ford Mustang Coupe
Location: Madison, Georgia
Posts: 1,643
Default

Alright guys. Got busy with the SAT this weekend so I didn't get too much done, but I did manage to take off the window trim on the body, put the front end up on jack stands (had to go buy a pair) and vacuum the entire car (you wouldn't believe how much rust, dirt, and crap had piled up in the floor pans). So I didn't get much done but I have a question.
How do I remove the trim above the window on the outside of the body?
This:

Click the image to open in full size.


Also, what should my next course of action be? Like I said before, I'm not sure what needs to be done, and stuff I've removed is stuff I knew had to go eventually.
This ad is not displayed to registered or logged-in members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Mustang Forums!
hightower2011 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2010, 09:52 PM   #42
racer_dave
2nd Gear Member
 
racer_dave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Vehicle: 1967 Mustang Fastback
Location: Michigan
Posts: 336
Default

I made my own blast cabinet from 1/2 plywood and put it on rollers. Mine is not completely enclosed because I do some larger parts (rearend housings). I picked up my blaster & nozzles @ a swap meet for $25.

I have a 10 hp 220v compressor run through a dryer to the gun. I use black magic media. It cuts really well and is cheap I get it from Menards $9 for 60lbs. Since my cabinet isn't sealed I lose some of my media, but I reclaim about 85% of it. When I want to refurbish aluminum I use glass bead that I get at the local Harbor Freight.

Keep on working, you're doing great so far.
racer_dave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2010, 10:03 PM   #43
tcrote5516
2nd Gear Member
 
tcrote5516's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Vehicle: 1967, Ford, Mustang
Location: NH
Posts: 476
Default

The trim needs to be unscrewed, look at the very front tip for an additional screw usualy hidden by crud. It is then held on by double sided tape that you can carefully pry away starting at one side and slowly working to the other.
__________________
tcrote5516 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2010, 10:11 PM   #44
hightower2011
4th Gear Member
 
hightower2011's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Vehicle: 1968 Ford Mustang Coupe
Location: Madison, Georgia
Posts: 1,643
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by racer_dave View Post
I made my own blast cabinet from 1/2 plywood and put it on rollers. Mine is not completely enclosed because I do some larger parts (rearend housings). I picked up my blaster & nozzles @ a swap meet for $25.

I have a 10 hp 220v compressor run through a dryer to the gun. I use black magic media. It cuts really well and is cheap I get it from Menards $9 for 60lbs. Since my cabinet isn't sealed I lose some of my media, but I reclaim about 85% of it. When I want to refurbish aluminum I use glass bead that I get at the local Harbor Freight.

Keep on working, you're doing great so far.
That sounds like a good idea! Do you have a pic or two to give me an idea of how you did it?
Building my own sounds better than buying one. That way I can build it as big as I want (within reason) to fit it within my needs.

It's simple ideas like these I wish my brain would think of.


Quote:
Originally Posted by tcrote5516 View Post
The trim needs to be unscrewed, look at the very front tip for an additional screw usualy hidden by crud. It is then held on by double sided tape that you can carefully pry away starting at one side and slowly working to the other.
Ah, I never looked there, thank you. (I was just looking at your thread, kinda ironic, haha. Congrats on the win though, your mustang looks incredible!)
hightower2011 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2010, 10:45 PM   #45
Angliagasser
2nd Gear Member
 
Angliagasser's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location:
Posts: 172
Default

For the drip rail chrome, I use a dead blow hammer or a rubber headed hammer and start from the front and hit it from the under side out and take it off. Just go slow it will come right off.
P.S. There are no screws anywhere on the drip rail chrome.

Last edited by Angliagasser; 05-02-2010 at 10:48 PM.
Angliagasser is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2010, 09:58 PM   #46
hightower2011
4th Gear Member
 
hightower2011's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Vehicle: 1968 Ford Mustang Coupe
Location: Madison, Georgia
Posts: 1,643
Default

Little update. I'm probably gonna go get a rear axle and front spindles to do my 5 lug conversion later this week. Total is $200. $50 for each front spindle (have been sandblasted) and $100 for the rear end, which is kinda dirty.
Sound good? Any better recommendations?


Also, I need some help removing the steering column and wheel. Right now I'm not quite sure how to get it and the steering wheel out.

Oh, and one more question. I was wondering what the newest (latest model) mustang engine I can put in my 1968 would be? Without major modification of course. I've heard of late '70s model engines being put in and was wondering what else can go in.



Thanks again guys. I've got a few books (including a shop manual) in the mail from amazon, but until then I'm afraid I'll have simple questions like these, haha.
hightower2011 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2010, 10:00 PM   #47
1slow67
ROTM Moderator
 
1slow67's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Vehicle: 2003 GT
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 7,933
jake03gt
Default

You don't need spindles. Just all the V8 brake parts. For 67 the I6 and V8 spindles were the same. $100 for a good rear end is a decent price.

Below is a PDF I made of my conversion. Maybe it will help some.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 4 to 5 lug swap (2) (1).pdf (99.2 KB, 22 views)
__________________

Last edited by 1slow67; 05-03-2010 at 10:02 PM.
1slow67 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2010, 10:24 PM   #48
racin66coupe
5th Gear Member
 
racin66coupe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Vehicle: 1966 mustang fastback
Location: NH
Posts: 3,480
Default

anything other than a modular engine will fit into the 67 i beleive, even big blocks.
and you'll probably need a steering wheel puller for the steering wheel
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by britzeee View Post
paul, i love/hate you. always <3
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueBloodedPony View Post
My IDs used to be FootballnCrabs, but for whatever reason everyone thought I was a homosexual football player that enjoyed spreading his STD around the locker room. Go figure.
racin66coupe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2010, 11:22 PM   #49
hightower2011
4th Gear Member
 
hightower2011's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Vehicle: 1968 Ford Mustang Coupe
Location: Madison, Georgia
Posts: 1,643
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BA Mustang View Post
You don't need spindles. Just all the V8 brake parts. For 67 the I6 and V8 spindles were the same. $100 for a good rear end is a decent price.

Below is a PDF I made of my conversion. Maybe it will help some.
Awesome! Great write up! If you could embed those pics, it'd be even better, but I'm not complaining, it's exactly what I needed!

Quote:
Originally Posted by racin66coupe View Post
anything other than a modular engine will fit into the 67 i beleive, even big blocks.
and you'll probably need a steering wheel puller for the steering wheel
I may be getting into something I can't handle, but I'd be especially interested in putting a 1990s mustang engine in there.
I think I'll make another thread in the general discussion to ask about this so it doesn't clutter this one.


And I'll pick up a steering wheel puller from an auto parts store tomorrow. Thanks for that tip, I shoulda known.
hightower2011 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2010, 11:30 PM   #50
1slow67
ROTM Moderator
 
1slow67's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Vehicle: 2003 GT
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 7,933
jake03gt
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by hightower2011 View Post
Awesome! Great write up! If you could embed those pics, it'd be even better, but I'm not complaining, it's exactly what I needed!
Yeah, I thought the links worked, but it seems you have to copy and paste them. Its been close to a year since I did that swap.
__________________
1slow67 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2010, 11:30 PM
MustangForums
Ford Mustang




Paid Advertisement

 
 
 
Reply

Tags
1968, 68, bullitt, classic, convertible, coupe, fastback, hightower, mods, mustang, pictures, recommended, resto, restomod, silver

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Forum Jump

Advertising

Featured Sponsors
Vendor Directory
New Sponsors
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:18 PM.

© Internet Brands, Inc.


This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company
Emails Backup