hightower2011

Alright guys. Got busy with the SAT this weekend so I didn't get too much done, but I did manage to take off the window trim on the body, put the front end up on jack stands (had to go buy a pair) and vacuum the entire car (you wouldn't believe how much rust, dirt, and crap had piled up in the floor pans). So I didn't get much done but I have a question.
How do I remove the trim above the window on the outside of the body?
This:




Also, what should my next course of action be? Like I said before, I'm not sure what needs to be done, and stuff I've removed is stuff I knew had to go eventually.

racer_dave

I made my own blast cabinet from 1/2 plywood and put it on rollers. Mine is not completely enclosed because I do some larger parts (rearend housings). I picked up my blaster & nozzles @ a swap meet for $25.

I have a 10 hp 220v compressor run through a dryer to the gun. I use black magic media. It cuts really well and is cheap I get it from Menards $9 for 60lbs. Since my cabinet isn't sealed I lose some of my media, but I reclaim about 85% of it. When I want to refurbish aluminum I use glass bead that I get at the local Harbor Freight.

Keep on working, you're doing great so far.

tcrote5516

The trim needs to be unscrewed, look at the very front tip for an additional screw usualy hidden by crud. It is then held on by double sided tape that you can carefully pry away starting at one side and slowly working to the other.

hightower2011

That sounds like a good idea! Do you have a pic or two to give me an idea of how you did it?
Building my own sounds better than buying one. That way I can build it as big as I want (within reason) to fit it within my needs.

It's simple ideas like these I wish my brain would think of.


Ah, I never looked there, thank you. (I was just looking at your thread, kinda ironic, haha. Congrats on the win though, your mustang looks incredible!)

Angliagasser

For the drip rail chrome, I use a dead blow hammer or a rubber headed hammer and start from the front and hit it from the under side out and take it off. Just go slow it will come right off.
P.S. There are no screws anywhere on the drip rail chrome.

hightower2011

Little update. I'm probably gonna go get a rear axle and front spindles to do my 5 lug conversion later this week. Total is $200. $50 for each front spindle (have been sandblasted) and $100 for the rear end, which is kinda dirty.
Sound good? Any better recommendations?


Also, I need some help removing the steering column and wheel. Right now I'm not quite sure how to get it and the steering wheel out.

Oh, and one more question. I was wondering what the newest (latest model) mustang engine I can put in my 1968 would be? Without major modification of course. I've heard of late '70s model engines being put in and was wondering what else can go in.



Thanks again guys. I've got a few books (including a shop manual) in the mail from amazon, but until then I'm afraid I'll have simple questions like these, haha.

1slow67

You don't need spindles. Just all the V8 brake parts. For 67 the I6 and V8 spindles were the same. $100 for a good rear end is a decent price.

Below is a PDF I made of my conversion. Maybe it will help some.

racin66coupe

anything other than a modular engine will fit into the 67 i beleive, even big blocks.
and you'll probably need a steering wheel puller for the steering wheel

hightower2011

Awesome! Great write up! If you could embed those pics, it'd be even better, but I'm not complaining, it's exactly what I needed!

I may be getting into something I can't handle, but I'd be especially interested in putting a 1990s mustang engine in there.
I think I'll make another thread in the general discussion to ask about this so it doesn't clutter this one.


And I'll pick up a steering wheel puller from an auto parts store tomorrow. Thanks for that tip, I shoulda known.

1slow67

Yeah, I thought the links worked, but it seems you have to copy and paste them. Its been close to a year since I did that swap.