hightower2011

Hey, they work for me! I'm happy you took the time to take pictures!
Lots of people just expect you to understand what they're saying, not realizing I'm no gearhead, haha.

71Mach14spd

Yes you can put a late model 5.0 in the car. You will need to grab the computer from the donor car as well.

hightower2011

Got the steering wheel off today but then ran into a major speed bump.

The drip rail is NOT coming off. I don't know what I could be doing wrong. I checked for the screw to make sure and it wasn't there. I then began to try to get it off. I tried to tap/hit it off with a hammer (I didn't go smashing at it, just methodically hitting it but not damaging it). I then tried wedging a screw driver when the front came off a little, but it didn't work well at all. Can someone help? I'm not getting anywhere.

Angliagasser

It take a liitle bit to get them started (drip rail) but once it starts you just have to work it off. I have always used either a dead blow hammer or a rubber hammer. I have taken off more then I care to remember. You have to start at one end or the other. The more I think about it I always started at the front. If you do not have a rubber or a dead blow hammer, use a small piece of wood to put against the under side of the chrome and hit it from the inside of the car out. You do have the chrome that holds the window rubber off don't you? That way it is easier to get to the back side of the under side of the drip rail chrome.

tcrote5516

Can I get a clarification as to what your trying to remove?

Drip rail trim decorative and is held on by tension only, no screws no tape. This needs to be pryed off from the bottom.

Door seal trim (about the same shape just much thicker) This is what holds the large rubber door/window gaskets. This is held on with multiple screws and double sided tape.

Which one are you having trouble with???

hightower2011

I already removed the door seal trim. A few of the screws were stripped but I got it off.

It is indeed the drip rail trim that I'm having trouble with. And as you mentioned, there appears to be no tape of screws. However, it is rusted pretty bad (since water gathers there) so the rust could be causing a bind, perhaps?


Thanks for the help!

hightower2011

And yes I already have it off. It seems the screws of the door seal trim actually help hold the drip rail trim in place as they run through a thin sheet of metal (attached to the drip rail) and then into the body. But like I said, I removed the door trim before I even started on the drip rail trim.

hightower2011

Update!

Ok so I decided for sure I wanted to go V8, so i started searching for this part, that part, this engine, that tranny, etc...

It all added up pretty high if I bought it all separately, and that was all hoping it would fit together. I also would need to rebuild an engine and transmission if I wanted to get it for cheap.

But then I got an idea, why not just find another mustang/cougar in V8 configuration but in bad-ish condition, and swap over? Well, i got luckier than I would've expected:





OUCH:


Ouch from another angle:


The Perilous Pair!



So I bought another mustang for $1800, and I'm fairly certain it was worth it. Right now it doesn't run but that's due to something with the fuel line. Pouring gas directly in the carb this baby roars! It has a dual exhaust and sounds incredible! No knocking around, coughing, or smoke! So either a new fuel line or pump should fix that.

Now, you've probably noticed the giant gash in the side. The mustang got t-boned going through a stop sign and then retired a few years ago. the door and rear quarter panel are destroyed but surprisingly, the floor pans took no damage, and shockingly, both the windows remained intact! I've even got the rear window section cut out (by previous owner) and I'll take a pic of it tomorrow, it's all gnarled up, haha.


So, after consulting with the previous owner (a car restorer himself) I have determined that I MIGHT be able to repair it. He gave me a brand new entire rear quarter panel, and another door. (I will still need structural parts from somewhere...) So once I get a welder, I'll be practicing night and day on scrap to prepare for that job, should I choose that route.


No before you guys call me crazy for buying 2 mustangs, here's a few advantages to this one:

-New Black Upholstery on all seats (I knew from the start I wanted a black interior)
-New chrome bumpers
-New front and rear valances
-New front windshield
-New tail light bezels
-Lots of new Chrome trim
-"New brake assemblies all around" ***Have to confirm this***
-Already set up and running V8
-Pretty sure it has power brakes
-No where near as much rust on both body and underneath
-Overall, much more intact than the blue mustang, haha


Not too much, but that takes a few hundred bucks off my price list! And I have no doubt that I would've spent more if I bought the parts separately.



Now, as far as what my plans are now, I've got 2 possible plans:


1. Use the black mustang as my base. Besides the driver side, it is in 500 times better condition. It has MUCH less rust and if I can only fix that driver side damage, it will be a perfect base, not to mention it's already set up for V8. In this case, I can probably keep the blue mustang to restore later OR I can use body parts from it on the black mustang, if I decide to.

2. Swap over the suspension, tranny, and engine into the blue mustang. The problem is that the blue body has MUCH more rust, and will require body work as well. Not to mention the time consumption of repairing the rust as well as the swap over.


I'm leaning towards plan #1.

Overall to be honest I wish I had found this mustang first, but I'm just as happy to have 2 mustangs to restore, 1 for now, 1 for later.

hightower2011

Oh and more pics and info to come tomorrow!

racin66coupe

so, what exactly is the plan?