These go on tomorrow
04-27-2010, 12:44 AM
#1
6th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: California
Posts: 10,468
These go on tomorrow(updated, on and running)
http://www.shopatron.com/products/pr...90YA/591.0.1.1
Doug's Tri-Y with 1 5/8" primaries, 1 3/4" secondaries and a 2 1/2" collector.
Also going on with this....
http://drgas.mybisi.com/product/univ...round-and-oval
Replacing the smashed and poorly fitting since day 1 Hooker long tubes. Should make at least as much top end power, but with more bottom end and mid range, and it will fit WAY better and not scrape on everything taller than a snails shell.
Doug's Tri-Y with 1 5/8" primaries, 1 3/4" secondaries and a 2 1/2" collector.
Also going on with this....
http://drgas.mybisi.com/product/univ...round-and-oval
Replacing the smashed and poorly fitting since day 1 Hooker long tubes. Should make at least as much top end power, but with more bottom end and mid range, and it will fit WAY better and not scrape on everything taller than a snails shell.
Last edited by 67mustang302; 05-02-2010 at 12:02 AM.
04-27-2010, 06:39 AM
#2
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Cork, Ireland
Posts: 6,417
you must have been saving a long time for those. I remember you talking about them before.
Let us know how they go. Couldn't agree more with ill fitting hookers, you probably remember my post. with those you should have no problem with ground clearance. what mufflers are you running?
Let us know how they go. Couldn't agree more with ill fitting hookers, you probably remember my post. with those you should have no problem with ground clearance. what mufflers are you running?
04-27-2010, 12:04 PM
#5
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,195
have doug's, have always used doug's, and love em. you'll be very, very satisfied with them, not only for the fit and finish, but also how well they seal. I have never blown a gasket on a set of doug's, just follow their installation instructions and retorgue. well worth the money.
04-27-2010, 08:43 PM
#6
6th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: California
Posts: 10,468
Yeah, been saving for a while. But I needed a set of headers to replaced the smashed and bashed and leaking hookers, and if I'm gonna get new ones, might as well buy them once and be done.
Managed to get the headers on today...they didn't fit as well as I hoped, but my car is not stock, so it's not a surprise. I had to grind part of the bellhousing away, which was almost to be expected with that beefy Quicktime SFI housing, it has a large flange. The pitman arm bumps the headers though just before locking on a left turn, but I think that's cuz the replacement pitman arm I have is larger than the stock one....I had to use the adjustable RMP mounts to move the engine around. And because of the pitman arm issue I couldn't drop the engine....which I found out after I swapped the drop brackets in. So I changed mounts, only to have to change them back to the stock height...which was a huge waste of time. Part of it too may be that the steering box is "on center" enough to be acceptable for driving, but if I get it dead nuts on center then the pitman arm may have just enough room to clear.
The header bolts were also a hair too long, so I had to grind them down so they wouldn't bottom out in the hole...which was probably because the heads aren't stock.
I didn't have time to get anything past the headers done, unfortunately. They fit really tight against the block, but with room, well designed. They occupy less space than the Hookers did and clear the steering box quite a bit better. They're also made better, much thicker flanges.
As far as ground clearance, they're not quite like a full length LT, they come up about 4-6" shorter than that and sit higher. The collector points towards the back of the car, but also downward and inward, so I have a compound angle to run my piping at, but I know how to do it, so it'll just take time to get it right, I'll have to run the pipe so it levels out AND turns to be parallel to centerline on the car. The flanges though sit up HIGH, especially compared to the Hookers. The lowest point of the flange sits maybe at the level of the bottom of the frame rail, maybe a bit higher. Once the pipe is run, that will sit lower then the flange, but not by much. I'll be picking up at least 4-5" of ground clearance over the hookers, and the pipes should sit higher than the bottom of the bellhousing at their lowest point.
It will probably make better power too, the larger tubing Doug's uses means it won't be a restriction at top end like most tri-y designs are, and it's a well made stepped tri-y so it should have good tuning characteristics. Between that and the Dr Gas X pipe(not the typical x pipe) the exhaust pulses and pressure should be balanced quite well form bank to bank. It'll be a bit quieter too, and sound more like a Ferrari
Managed to get the headers on today...they didn't fit as well as I hoped, but my car is not stock, so it's not a surprise. I had to grind part of the bellhousing away, which was almost to be expected with that beefy Quicktime SFI housing, it has a large flange. The pitman arm bumps the headers though just before locking on a left turn, but I think that's cuz the replacement pitman arm I have is larger than the stock one....I had to use the adjustable RMP mounts to move the engine around. And because of the pitman arm issue I couldn't drop the engine....which I found out after I swapped the drop brackets in. So I changed mounts, only to have to change them back to the stock height...which was a huge waste of time. Part of it too may be that the steering box is "on center" enough to be acceptable for driving, but if I get it dead nuts on center then the pitman arm may have just enough room to clear.
The header bolts were also a hair too long, so I had to grind them down so they wouldn't bottom out in the hole...which was probably because the heads aren't stock.
I didn't have time to get anything past the headers done, unfortunately. They fit really tight against the block, but with room, well designed. They occupy less space than the Hookers did and clear the steering box quite a bit better. They're also made better, much thicker flanges.
As far as ground clearance, they're not quite like a full length LT, they come up about 4-6" shorter than that and sit higher. The collector points towards the back of the car, but also downward and inward, so I have a compound angle to run my piping at, but I know how to do it, so it'll just take time to get it right, I'll have to run the pipe so it levels out AND turns to be parallel to centerline on the car. The flanges though sit up HIGH, especially compared to the Hookers. The lowest point of the flange sits maybe at the level of the bottom of the frame rail, maybe a bit higher. Once the pipe is run, that will sit lower then the flange, but not by much. I'll be picking up at least 4-5" of ground clearance over the hookers, and the pipes should sit higher than the bottom of the bellhousing at their lowest point.
It will probably make better power too, the larger tubing Doug's uses means it won't be a restriction at top end like most tri-y designs are, and it's a well made stepped tri-y so it should have good tuning characteristics. Between that and the Dr Gas X pipe(not the typical x pipe) the exhaust pulses and pressure should be balanced quite well form bank to bank. It'll be a bit quieter too, and sound more like a Ferrari
04-28-2010, 06:53 AM
#7
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Cork, Ireland
Posts: 6,417
well don't we just love it if a 2hour job takes all day and you need to modify half the car to get a new part in. But since you have them in the big job is done. a good set of pipes, angles, cutter, welder and you're in business :-)
It's great that you gained so much ground clearance. I have to post a picture of my setup, quite sure you had the same clearance as me now for comparison.
What I hate most about mounting headers is that the pipes come out in such an angle at block that you can't possibly get a bolt in there, so you end up pushing the bolt through on some before you attach the header. In 2 cases I even had to work the piping to even get a bolt into the bolthole of header flange ... they any better on that? spent so much money on mine so they're not gonna change, just to see if anyone else comes up with the same idea ...
w hat mufflers are you running in the back?
It's great that you gained so much ground clearance. I have to post a picture of my setup, quite sure you had the same clearance as me now for comparison.
What I hate most about mounting headers is that the pipes come out in such an angle at block that you can't possibly get a bolt in there, so you end up pushing the bolt through on some before you attach the header. In 2 cases I even had to work the piping to even get a bolt into the bolthole of header flange ... they any better on that? spent so much money on mine so they're not gonna change, just to see if anyone else comes up with the same idea ...
w hat mufflers are you running in the back?
04-28-2010, 08:16 AM
#8
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Australia
Posts: 2,266
nice!
i couldnt tell the difference between ceramic coat or not as far as power is concerned but the coat made a massive difference to under hood temps and even oil temp. they are also so much easier to keep clean.
btw i'm glad theres still a few familiar names around
i couldnt tell the difference between ceramic coat or not as far as power is concerned but the coat made a massive difference to under hood temps and even oil temp. they are also so much easier to keep clean.
btw i'm glad theres still a few familiar names around
04-28-2010, 09:54 AM
#9
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: CO
Posts: 6
I have the same headers on my 65 k code. the only fit issue I had was to adjust the z bar for the clutch. But my car is pretty much stock/period correct. What are you running for mufflers? I'm using Spin Tecs and really like the sound and performance.
they were pricey, but it was worth it for not having to deal with the issues I've heard so many others have had with other tri y's. After 6 years, they look like new still. Probably would have had to repaint or buy a new set of cheaper ones.
they were pricey, but it was worth it for not having to deal with the issues I've heard so many others have had with other tri y's. After 6 years, they look like new still. Probably would have had to repaint or buy a new set of cheaper ones.