Long Tube Header Installation Question
#1
Long Tube Header Installation Question
I am about to install a set of Hedman Elite Long Tube Hedders (88308). In the paperwork that comes with the headers it states that I NEED to install a rubber hanger just after the collector reducer to remove the weight of the exhaust from the headers. It further states that without the additional hanger, the collectors will eventually crack. The diagram shows three sets of hangers (one set in addition to the standard hangers at the muffler and the hangers at the tail pipes). I've not previously seen or done this.
So I have two questions:
[1] Has anyone actually added an additional hanger?
[2] Where did you mount the hangers to the floor pan?
I've got a 67 mustang with a 302 and C4 trans. This is a cruiser and not a daily driver/strip car. Thanks in advance.
So I have two questions:
[1] Has anyone actually added an additional hanger?
[2] Where did you mount the hangers to the floor pan?
I've got a 67 mustang with a 302 and C4 trans. This is a cruiser and not a daily driver/strip car. Thanks in advance.
#2
I find it very hard to believe that the collectors could crack ....
... my exhaust system was installed by a highly recommended "hot rod" and exhaust shop ...
(seems like if it needed an additional hanger they would have suggested it)
#4
Your post caused some interest and I doubled checked my receipts which I did buy the 88308 too. I never saw any instructions... or anywhere that a hanger had to be installed. So you can guess that I do not have a hanger on mine and I have had no problems. Had them for maybe 500 miles...?
The only problem I had was I had to cut a pipe, flip the pipe and create a passage for the cable clutch. If you have auto, then no prob, if you have a 4 speed, pipes might be in the way of the z bar mount to the engine, if you go with cable, you will have to modify the headers or else you'll burn through the cable.
These headers don't have the best access space to install the bolts into the heads. The best way to install the drivers side is to lift your front end up about a foot, then loosen the bolts to the engine block at the mount and lift the engine up a bit, then from the bottom work them up in there. It is difficult and will require a specific movement while coming from above b/c it will feel stuck, but then with enough brute force it will pop and be free for puting in place. I suggest taping the headers as they will get scratched during this process. I also taped my heads and laid a poly bag liner on the inside of the engine bay (shock tower) to keep from scratching and to help the headers slide in. I've done it about 8 times due to cable issue where I had to cut the pipe.
Here's my issue I had, You will see I heat wrapped the pipe but the clutch cable was jammed up on it.
I was measuring how much space I would have so that the steering arm would not hit my headers once I modified it.
I found a guy around town that had to modify his so I took some pics of his car before cutting mine
Although he has a rack and pinion and I don't I was able to modify the same way without problems
I don't think I have any pictures of my actual headers, but it was done the same way. Clutch is smoother since the cable is bent up and doesn't burn the cable. Before I would drive with the cable resting on it, with about 4 layers of different heat resistance shields and the rubber on the cable would burn. Once I would park the car, the cable would be still and the rubber would cool down and bond to the cable. Next time I would start her up, I literally would have to put all my might on the clutch pedal to break the bond and it felt very rough.
I hope this helps you. I wish someone had told me about their trials before I went through mine!
The only problem I had was I had to cut a pipe, flip the pipe and create a passage for the cable clutch. If you have auto, then no prob, if you have a 4 speed, pipes might be in the way of the z bar mount to the engine, if you go with cable, you will have to modify the headers or else you'll burn through the cable.
These headers don't have the best access space to install the bolts into the heads. The best way to install the drivers side is to lift your front end up about a foot, then loosen the bolts to the engine block at the mount and lift the engine up a bit, then from the bottom work them up in there. It is difficult and will require a specific movement while coming from above b/c it will feel stuck, but then with enough brute force it will pop and be free for puting in place. I suggest taping the headers as they will get scratched during this process. I also taped my heads and laid a poly bag liner on the inside of the engine bay (shock tower) to keep from scratching and to help the headers slide in. I've done it about 8 times due to cable issue where I had to cut the pipe.
Here's my issue I had, You will see I heat wrapped the pipe but the clutch cable was jammed up on it.
I was measuring how much space I would have so that the steering arm would not hit my headers once I modified it.
I found a guy around town that had to modify his so I took some pics of his car before cutting mine
Although he has a rack and pinion and I don't I was able to modify the same way without problems
I don't think I have any pictures of my actual headers, but it was done the same way. Clutch is smoother since the cable is bent up and doesn't burn the cable. Before I would drive with the cable resting on it, with about 4 layers of different heat resistance shields and the rubber on the cable would burn. Once I would park the car, the cable would be still and the rubber would cool down and bond to the cable. Next time I would start her up, I literally would have to put all my might on the clutch pedal to break the bond and it felt very rough.
I hope this helps you. I wish someone had told me about their trials before I went through mine!
#5
Thanks for the feedback guys. I'm going to see if there's a convenient spot to attach a hanger once I'm done, but won't stress if not.
FoMoJoe - I've got C4, so I'm hoping for a little easier installation. Very informative post though. I'm sure someone will find it useful in the future.
Just for fun I figured I'd post the "special instructions" that Hedman is now giving...
FoMoJoe - I've got C4, so I'm hoping for a little easier installation. Very informative post though. I'm sure someone will find it useful in the future.
Just for fun I figured I'd post the "special instructions" that Hedman is now giving...
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