rbd30707

I have a 68 coupe. I recently replaced the suspension components, upper and lower control arms, coil springs, all the bushings, etc...
The issue is that I do not know how to make the adjustments to make the tires reasonably straight, the front wheels are angled out,

Any way any tips on how I can get it lined up good enough to get to a shop???

Thanks

cmanf

I was in the same boat when i did my must 2 setup. I bit the bullet $40 for a car hauler from uhaul is cheaper than 1 tire, and if you drive it outa line your gonna loose 2 tires if you can keep it in your lane.

Jonk67

To pull the front of the tires in (toe) you turn the sleeve that connects the inner/outer tie rods together. You'll have to experiment to see which way to spin each sleeve to push the tires in/out. If you put the tires on something slippery like 2 sheets of wax paper or 2 plastic floor tiles with grease between them they'll turn easier without scrubbing and fighting you while you turn. Hooking a short fat flat blade screw driver through the slit in the sleeve might make it easier to turn and some WD-40 on the tie rod threads.

You can either eyeball when they're pretty straight (most cars are toe in, fronts of tires closer together than rear of tire or pigeon toe'd slightly). You can run a string across the rear tires forward across the front tires to see what straight is.
Jon

Edit: If you did the Shelby/Arning 1" drop to your UCA you'll need to bring those specs with you to the shop so they don't set it back to factory which won't drive well with the drop. Just ask if you need the specs.

68six

I had a similar problem with my 68, just completed a complete suspension upgrade with Total Control Products equipment. My problem was that I had too much toe-in and I had adjusted the sleeves controlling the tie rod lengths as short as they would go with still too much toe-in. My solution came from the realization that the position of the lower control arm was limiting my ability to adjust toe-in further. In other words, the lateral position of the LCA and the length of the tie rods each affect the toe-in.

Have you tried moving the LCAs inward? I don't know if you stuck with the stock eccentric bolt or not, but you should have about a half inch of adjustability on each side. Moving the LCA in until wheels are pointed straight ahead is what I would do, and then fine tune the toe-in with the sleeve connected to the tie rods to get the toe-in close to spec. The stock Mustang specs calle for slight toe-in although I can't recall the setting off-hand.

I purchased the 'eccentric eliminator' from Total Control Products which replaces the relatively crude mechanism that came with the car when it was new. It's basically a square plate with three holes drilled in it. Depending on its orientation, you get something like 11 possible positions.

As a note of caution, the camber setting will also vary as you move the LCA in or out. The process is iterative--as I recall, the toe in is the alignment step that is usually done last. If you have adjustabily on your upper control arm, too, this will give you more options for getting the alignment specs right.

rbd30707

Thanks Guys I will give this a shot.