Homemade Rotisserie
#11
Easy to push in and out. Can flip it with one hand. Finding the center of gravity is the key. IF you build one, I would have a couple extra hands on the first flip. After that you can get a feel of it. On the front I need to raise the pivit point about 6". That would be about right. On the rear its about where the gas cap goes. This one is setup for 65-68 and has seen a Fairlane. Be sure to put locks about every 1/8th a turn.
#12
Just grab the car and turn it over. Give it a push and it will roll in and out of the garage. I did change from air filled tires to flat proof due to the welder dropings burning thru the air filled tires. I keep a chock under the wheels (on the roto) when I want it to stay still. If you fine the center of gravity, then you can turn it with your little pinky. If you are unsure about building one, then I would suggest a pre-built unit.
#13
Just grab the car and turn it over. Give it a push and it will roll in and out of the garage. I did change from air filled tires to flat proof due to the welder dropings burning thru the air filled tires. I keep a chock under the wheels (on the roto) when I want it to stay still. If you fine the center of gravity, then you can turn it with your little pinky. If you are unsure about building one, then I would suggest a pre-built unit.
I mean what size stock are you using for the frame and what are you using for the pivot? Two pieces of round stock with different ID? In your pictures, all i really can make out is the farm jack and the back of the vertical support....
Do you have any other pictures?
#14
Bossbill's is just pipe in pipe, the whole thing being pretty much like a pair of engine stands except for being taller, a bit sturdier, and not having wheels.
A little grease between the pipes might make it easier to turn - possibly so easy to turn that if you don't get it balanced closely enough it'll want to flop over heavy side down all by itself if it isn't somehow pinned in place. I won't ever trust friction to hold either on this or an engine stand via a bolt through the outer pipe (not after somehow managing to break the bolt on my engine stand).
Norm
A little grease between the pipes might make it easier to turn - possibly so easy to turn that if you don't get it balanced closely enough it'll want to flop over heavy side down all by itself if it isn't somehow pinned in place. I won't ever trust friction to hold either on this or an engine stand via a bolt through the outer pipe (not after somehow managing to break the bolt on my engine stand).
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; 07-02-2010 at 06:56 AM.
#15
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First time posting image sorry if it does not work out. I built a homemade rotisserie over the winter. I have not lifted my 68vert b/c I want to put some supports in the door. It was a good project for me b/c I like fabricating and welding. I bought the design off ebay for $5. Worth it to me just for the parts lists (mostly 3/16" and Schedule 40 Pipe). Like most projects I do it took much longer than expected, but happy with results. I may keep the car on this thing for a couple of years just to get my worth out of it.
Its adjustable with the turn of a handle (to find the center of gravity). has tall hydraulic jacks and a brake to keep from rotating. Hope this gives you some good Ideas.
First time posting image sorry if it does not work out. I built a homemade rotisserie over the winter. I have not lifted my 68vert b/c I want to put some supports in the door. It was a good project for me b/c I like fabricating and welding. I bought the design off ebay for $5. Worth it to me just for the parts lists (mostly 3/16" and Schedule 40 Pipe). Like most projects I do it took much longer than expected, but happy with results. I may keep the car on this thing for a couple of years just to get my worth out of it.
Its adjustable with the turn of a handle (to find the center of gravity). has tall hydraulic jacks and a brake to keep from rotating. Hope this gives you some good Ideas.
Last edited by jgemperline; 07-02-2010 at 03:52 PM.
#16
If your going to put wheels on it-and I would--look around for a set of axles they use to move trailer homes/double wides. Worn out sets are cheap (if not free) and are plenty good to move a car around. Gives the base a wider stance, makes your lower section and it rolls very easily with big tires
And I would join the two ends--pretty much have to if your making a roller--you can do it just like the store bought ones with a simple 4 inch pipe or square tube that slides into another at each end--adjust where it needs to be and drill bolt holes as needed for different size vehicles.
Plus tires gives you a good place to sit down when you are staring at the thing wondering "what in the heck have I gotten myself in to".
And I would join the two ends--pretty much have to if your making a roller--you can do it just like the store bought ones with a simple 4 inch pipe or square tube that slides into another at each end--adjust where it needs to be and drill bolt holes as needed for different size vehicles.
Plus tires gives you a good place to sit down when you are staring at the thing wondering "what in the heck have I gotten myself in to".
Last edited by Tomahawk715; 07-02-2010 at 06:45 PM.
#17
Here is mine, cost me $300 to build it, most of that was the casters. They are $26 each and I used 6 of them. If you have the pivot point about where the camshaft would be the car will roll over easily, and you wont have to worry about it flipping on you. I did it with drop down body mounts, this is a simple way to do it and I want to build a better one, but for now this one works quite well. This is a 65 GTO on it.
The Mustang is going on it as soon as I get the trunk and tail panel replaced. If I dont replace them before I put it up, the thing will break or fold up on me. The trunk is that bad. Also I need to get the GTO painted and movable on its own before I start on the Mustang again.
The Mustang is going on it as soon as I get the trunk and tail panel replaced. If I dont replace them before I put it up, the thing will break or fold up on me. The trunk is that bad. Also I need to get the GTO painted and movable on its own before I start on the Mustang again.
#18
Mine is homemade out of junk steel (2"x4X 3/16") with a couple of sticks that telescope over the 2x4's. I did have to buy one jack, the other I had from years ago. It has a 3" solid pin for the pivit points and 3" sleeves welded in to the cross member that rotates. I would not recommend using grease as this may cause it to turn too fast. No need for big wheels, tires or axles as the cheap ones will do quiet well and you can save a couple hundred pounds of weight (the car has gotta come off there sometime). I can push it in and out of the garage very easily. I am guessing that the body of the car is less than 1K when stripped, and for this kind of device, thats not much. I will say that keeping the two ends connected together (bottom tube) is a real plus, and is to me critical. It keeps everything tied together as a unit, like a chicken roaster.
#20
I guess the reason we used trailer axles (besides the free part) was that we wanted to move the thing in and out of the shop--my place is grass right outside so casters or small wheels were not an option--
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