Lil 68 coupe

i just got my 68 mustang not that long ago and i decided to give it a tune up since it wwas running poorly. the tune up didnt help. So i looked at my firing order and all the wires are move one over to the right. (i have a 351W) does this mean the owner before me put the distributor in wrong? the number three wire is on the number one post???

nassaubayman

The Previous Owner probably missed when stabbing the distributor. Instead of trying again, he just moved the wires.

Get the timing mark to TDC, or whatever you have it timed at. The rotor should be pointing at the #1 plug, or 180 degrees from it. If so, the wiring should be fine the way it is.

kalli

just to add to nassau ... from there it should be plugged anticlokwise in the cap following the firing order.
as he said it doesn't matter if the cap says#1 and it doesn't really lead to #1. but some distributors are finicky in such a way:
when piston is at TDC, the rotor should pint at #1 or 180 out just as he says. and when you turn it to 10 degrees advanced from tdc the rotor might be far away from the post in the cap. so in some distributors you will need to lift the lot out and turn again ... it's hard to explain

anyway, was it rough as well before tune up, what is wrong?

Lil 68 coupe

well it runs smooth when you get it right. that wasnt the problem. i got a 2v on there right now and the choke is heat activated, theres probably a name for it that i dont know?? but theres nothing on my intake as a heat source going to my choke so the choke is being held open with a zip tie.

its kinda difficult, when the choke opens rpms increase a lot so i turn the idle screw down, to much and it dies. seems to run better with choke closed??

kalli

it's called a heat riser. From the choke housing you have a metal tube that shoves directly into the exhaust manifold (if you still have the stock exhaust manifold). If you have replaced the exhaust manifold with headers, you can get a tube (from ponycarbs.com for example if it's an autolite 2100 or motorcraft 2150 carb) that tube is then just wrapped around your header and held with a clamp (not so nice looking, but works).
The intake is not hot enough for choke operation

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Unive...Q5fAccessories

(it's a lot of money for what it really is in my opinion)
so figure what carb you have first (probably is autolite 2100, motorcraft 2150) and check if you have the original cast iron exhaust manifold or headers.

on a note: an inoperational choke is worse than having no choke at all in my opinion. last thing you want is that thing working whern engine is at operating temperature. You can disable it completely (for time being or testing) by loosening the 3 screws at the choke housing (black cylinder) and rotating the housing so it opens the top butterfly and keep turning another good bit. if you turn it further, the cold bimetal in there will still not close it. you'll have a hard time when engine is cold, but at least when warm it's not affecting performance

69mach1377

Get an electric choke kit...

Lil 68 coupe

well that makes things easier, i do not have manifolds, i got headers i think i'll do what you said kali and just losen the three screws and turn it. thanks a lot. i have plans with a four barrel holley anyway

maybe you could help me with that next part.

i am planning to rebuild a 351. so far i have a 650 vac. sec. carb, edle brock preformer rpm intake, a 351W that has beeen 30 over and run, but not a lot of run time.

i figure i can get away with re-ringing the pistons. but i wanna upgrade my valvtrain as well. where are good places to look for complete cam kits? the plan is a beefy street motor, not a race motor. i got 2.75 rear end gears, the elde brock intake rpm range is from idle to 5500. ( so summit says) i just need to match a cam and a torque converter.

69mach1377

Edelbrock and Comp Cams can set you up with their techlines.