2+2GT

Hmmm… Lessee, the sway bars, springs, shocks, tires all effect how it goes around curves, but not the brakes.

Now, "improved performance" might include brakes, but I'm pretty literal.

Jonk67

Andrewmp6 beat me to the posting of the Daze suspension101 article, read that and soak it in, it's a good starter as other links on the site are. To make the steering a little more bearable in slow manuevers you might consider a roller idler arm also
http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/idlerarm/
You may need to verify with John at ORP that his modded idler will fit your I6 suspension as the I6 is generally smaller on a lot of suspension pieces. As mentioned putting new UCA/LCA with ball joints, tie rods, strut rod bushings will help a lot in steering feel and wander. I think my biggest single improvement in steering wheel play was cleaning out the 40yr+ old grease out of the steering gearbox and repacking with fresh ford spec. grease, took 1/2" of play out of the wheel.

Sounds like you've got a good 'improved stock' plan your working from, that's one of the most important things is to pick a plan and stick to it.

By the way WE NEED PICS! that 6 sounds mean.
Jon

Oxnard Montalvo

Now that's just silly.

So handling is just about curves?

Don't better brakes kinda sorta allow you to approach the corners at greater speeds? Doesn't deceleration fit into handling the equation?


You're pretty something, but literal doesn't come to mind.

2+2GT

Now that's just nasty. I think we're done here.

MPGmustang

Heres a list I Have come up with so far... I'm going stock-ish, would like to get away from 65 shims on the UCA's.

Thanks for that suspension101 link!!!

Parts:
Roller Idler Arm
2 UCA's
2 LCA's
all steering linkage (tie rods, strut rods, ball joints...)
Export Brace ( I heard from tower to tower is best, any recomendations?)
1" Front Sway Bar (the 1 and 1/8th would seem too thick for a 6 no?)
New Springs (weight? height?)
one peice shock tower braces. (the one that allso connects to the Firewall)
Spring perches... do roller perches make a dif in handling? or just wear and tear?


Labor:
ME = Free!!
Shelby Drop
Clean out steering Lube and pack in new... Great Call!

Done:
Kayaba Gas-A-Just shocks
205/70r14 Tires on 14" outlaw rims... 14x8


Future:
Brakes I'm happy with, I really like the feel of the drums, I'll probably even drill them. drilling drum brakes and Drum Drilling. I do understand the safety with disks, it can stop when wet and faster. ATM the jury is out deciding still...


This Upgrade will be one of the last to this car for a long time, I still have a 65 front bench seat I'm waiting on to put up front

Pics and Video's I have but need to figure out youtube and photobucket... and edit my plate


Main point... Hug the Road at all times.

mr_velocity

My 66 is completely stripped so I started with Dynacorn torque boxes and SpinTech subframe connectors. Would like to check out TinMan at some point since the Spin Techs didn't fit exactly. We're already drilled for the shelby drop. Now I'll be doing some massive searches on mf for the rest of the suspension upgrades.

2+2GT

I haven't used them, but Scarebird has six-cylinder disc brackets that bolt on to your stock spindles, $125. To finish the job you need (don't hold me to this) Ranger rotors, Citation calipers, and Seville hoses. With care, you could probably do this for $200.

67mustang302

+1 to what was said.....

HOWEVER.....keep in mind that spring rates are weight based. 620 springs with a 6 cylinder would be almost like running 750 springs with a 289/302. Uber spinal crushing ride. With those high profile peanut tires you're not going to have enough grip to need heavy springs to counter the lateral loads(that won't be there). You probably don't want to go beyond a 540 spring at the most with 4 leaves in the back(GT springs would be great for that setup with no more than 540's up front).

As for brakes, disc is always better, but places like Cobra Automotive sell high end drum packages that use better material finned drums with Kevlar based shoe compounds. Dunno if they'd fit under 14's though.

And yes, brakes DO effect how the car can be driven into a turn. Without enough brake to slow down, you have to approach a turn slower to avoid overloading the brakes. That means you won't be going through a turn as fast as you could otherwise, ie improved handling ability won't matter since you'll never be able to use it.

2+2GT

....keep in mind that spring rates are weight based. 620 springs with a 6 cylinder would be almost like running 750 springs with a 289/302. Uber spinal crushing ride. With those high profile peanut tires you're not going to have enough grip to need heavy springs to counter the lateral loads(that won't be there). You probably don't want to go beyond a 540 spring at the most with 4 leaves in the back(GT springs would be great for that setup with no more than 540's up front).
Hmmm… The 289/302 weighs about 460 pounds, while the 200 weighs about 385. Of course a 302 with aluminum intake and headers weighs less, and it doesn't seem to be a spring problem. It's worth some thought.

As for brakes, disc is always better, but places like Cobra Automotive sell high end drum packages that use better material finned drums with Kevlar based shoe compounds. Dunno if they'd fit under 14's though.
Very unlikely.

And yes, brakes DO effect how the car can be driven into a turn. Without enough brake to slow down, you have to approach a turn slower to avoid overloading the brakes. That means you won't be going through a turn as fast as you could otherwise, ie improved handling ability won't matter since you'll never be able to use it.
True in racing, but on the street even stock drum brakes would be adequate, at anything remotely resembling legal speeds. I prefer disc brakes, though. I just didn't think that was part of the OP's topic.

I always wanted to get a good look at the Scarebird setup. Imagine what it took to work out that a combination of Nissan rotors, Citation calipers, and Seville hoses would bolt onto a 64-66 six cylinder Mustang (with slight modification of the hub) and fit inside the stock 14" 64-66 six cylinder Mustang wheel. My hat's off to them.

67mustang302

Talk about scroungosaurus rex. Imagine how much searching and testing and fitting it took to figure all that out. I don't have that kind of patience.