Mustang steering
#12
we're currently about to convert a manual 67 to a power steering, but haven't started as two brackets and a pulley are missing. he got the parts from all over the place (flaming river, scott drake ... ) and we're currently figuring it out. ask again in 4 weeks time when we're done. He got a Flaming River box with it, but no idea what ratio he chose. personally I wouldn't do it to my car, but then again my mother will not be driving it
#13
My '67 has original equipment power steering. Switching to power rack-and-pinion is high on my wish list.
If you want to keep everything original, then the people at Chockostang are who you want to talk to:
http://www.chockostangclassicmustang...ockostang.html
If you want to keep everything original, then the people at Chockostang are who you want to talk to:
http://www.chockostangclassicmustang...ockostang.html
#15
Prolly just worn components. All new stuff plus replace the box with a new Flaming River manual unit if the box is shot. I went from factory 20:1 ratio to a new 16:1 ratio FR box and the effort is about the same, but the steering is tighter an more responsive than most newer cars. The FR boxes use newer upgraded needle bearing designs inside, so what you lose in gear ratio you gain back in reduced internal box friction.
Roller idler arms, replace worn parts, good moly based grease and it will steer like a sports car.
Roller idler arms, replace worn parts, good moly based grease and it will steer like a sports car.
#16
Yeah, if your mom drives it and finds it hard to steer then you may want to go power. While all manual quick ratio is fine and I can turn the wheel with my tiny steering wheel while stationary, some people might have a hard time MAINLY cuz they're not used to it. Even older women could handle it with some time in the seat, you get used to it. But many people that "find it difficult" would much prefer the convenience of PS.
And I did manage to install mine with the Hooker LT's that were on at the time with the export brace in, but it was a REAL pia...and it weighs a ton and required a bunch of turning and twisting to get it to go in. Without headers it would have been really easy, aside from the weight. It is a tiny tad larger than a stock box.
And I did manage to install mine with the Hooker LT's that were on at the time with the export brace in, but it was a REAL pia...and it weighs a ton and required a bunch of turning and twisting to get it to go in. Without headers it would have been really easy, aside from the weight. It is a tiny tad larger than a stock box.
#17
I have competed in autocross evens with my stock manual steering, and driven many years with no "slop" in the steering wheel.
And if your gearbox is shot, a new FR gearbox is the cheapest, easiest way to go. Even on V8 cars, it's possible to R&R the box with the engine in. You do have to remove the LH cowl brace, LH valve cover, #7 & #8 spark plugs, steering column, and LH (driver's) seat, all of which takes less than an hour. Then you are good to R&R the box.
The factory PS, properly installed, works very well. It's the exact same Bendix PS used in the 64-82 Corvette, and THAT car does not exactly have a reputation for lousy steering. 99% of the time problems with factory PS are due to crappy repairs, cheap generic parts, or parts missing completely. Why people do crappy repairs to PS is a mystery to me, but I see it all the time.
If you decide to change to PS, I'd recommend adding the 4-turn gearbox, as the factory did. The dealer-installed PS left the 5-turn box in, I've driven such cars and the steering is so easy it feels "floaty" to me.
Last edited by 2+2GT; 08-07-2010 at 03:58 PM.
#18
Quick ratio manual steering is awesome. I test drove cars for Honda, and my all manual factory steering with the quick ratio box had better feel, more stability and was more responsive than 99% of the cars I ever test drove.
#19
Can you define what you mean by quick ratio manual steering? What size tires are you running?
#20
Ford had 2 basic steering gear ratios. One was a 20:1 which is typical of the "turn the wheel a bazillion times to steer" boxes. The other was a "performance ratio" that was also used on some PS cars of 16:1. The difference is that the 20:1(or 19:1, or 19.9:1 etc) was 5-1/2 turns lock to lock, whereas the 16:1 "quick ratio" is about 4-5/8 turns lock to lock. Modern racks both manual and power are typically 4-1/2, so the 16:1 gearbox has the same responsiveness.
I'm only running 205 wide tires up front, but I run a 13" dia steering wheel and can turn it when stationary. And my arms are scrawny. It's actually not that bad....with 245's it would be heavier, but not by much. You also have to keep in mind that older cars like Mustangs run a more positive scrub radius that gives a castering effect when turning the wheel while stationary. It results in less straight line stability, particularly during heavy breaking, but provides better suspension geometry for handling. Many modern cars run hugely negative scrub radiuses due to large SAI, they brake in a dead straight line with ABS engaged and no hands on the wheel, but turn like crap. Most modern sports cars run more towards the positive end of the scrub radius spectrum.
I'm only running 205 wide tires up front, but I run a 13" dia steering wheel and can turn it when stationary. And my arms are scrawny. It's actually not that bad....with 245's it would be heavier, but not by much. You also have to keep in mind that older cars like Mustangs run a more positive scrub radius that gives a castering effect when turning the wheel while stationary. It results in less straight line stability, particularly during heavy breaking, but provides better suspension geometry for handling. Many modern cars run hugely negative scrub radiuses due to large SAI, they brake in a dead straight line with ABS engaged and no hands on the wheel, but turn like crap. Most modern sports cars run more towards the positive end of the scrub radius spectrum.