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1965 fast back with major rust

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Old 09-30-2010, 10:07 AM   #21
NoReins
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I got my quarters from Laurel Mountain Mustang in PA. They are dynacorn. They fit pretty well, surprisingly. Floor plans are from Northcoast Mustangs out of Ohio. I forget what the brand is but they are thicker than dynacorn. It's cool if you can afford original Ford tooling, but the repro's are not all that bad. Everything requires trimming and some mods, no matter what you go with.
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Old 09-30-2010, 11:01 AM   #22
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I posted some pictures in the photo gallery here.
http://mustangforums.com/forum/membe...-fastback.html

Hopefully that link will work. Until I get the required posts I can't insert photos here.

Before I start, I was hoping for some do's and don't, and things to watch out for. I got NPD's replacement parts and it looks like I'm going to have to reuse some of the mounting clips that are welded to the floor? That's going to be interesting to try and get them on a new panel and in the right position.
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Old 09-30-2010, 11:30 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imaginator View Post
2+2GT,

Your GT350H is beautiful!
I wish. I have seen the car in person, though, which is why I used it as an example.

Last edited by 2+2GT; 09-30-2010 at 11:33 AM.
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Old 09-30-2010, 11:32 AM   #24
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#1 thing I would tell you to do is mock everything up before you weld. When I say everything I mean EVERYTHING. Make sure your panels fit and everything is the way it's supposed to be before the welder comes out. You can use clamps, screws, whatever... Just remember, these parts are going to need work to get them to fit, don't get frustrated - they aren't perfect.

#2 MEASURE EVERYTHING before you start cutting the bad stuff out, use it as a template before cutting it out. Measure, Measure and Measure.

#3 Take your time, if you start replacing one panel and it isn't correct - everything else after will be off.

#4 If I were you I'd start with the transition piece and trunk floor. Mock them up and make sure your gas tank fits before you start welding. Then go to the quarters. Then on to the floor.

These are just my ideas from my experience. Others may have some different ideas.

You can check out my project http://mustangforums.com/forum/class...-fastback.html . I've replaced about every darn panel there is.

Remember, just take your time. It's better to do it right the first time than having to go back and re-do it. There is a lot of knowledge on this forum, ask lots of questions along the way and put lots of pics up even if they are on an outside link. Everyone is willing to help! Good luck
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Old 09-30-2010, 11:34 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoReins View Post
#1 thing I would tell you to do is mock everything up before you weld.
That's how it's done.

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 09-30-2010, 12:09 PM   #26
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Ok, in reguards to your #4 that says start with the transition piece? What's that?
My thought on this was to mock everything up, as you said. But start with the quarters, which some one else has already cut out. I think the trunk floor is so weak that I need to have all the outside panels on and looking right before I cut into the floor. Is that wrong? Should I start from inside and work outwards? Or are you saying it doesn't matter where I start, just have everything on the car and looking right before the welding?
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Old 09-30-2010, 12:20 PM   #27
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Ok, in reguards to your #4 that says start with the transition piece? What's that?
Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 09-30-2010, 12:39 PM   #28
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Thanks 2+2GT, that was awesome you put that pic up!

So, as you can see, the transition piece is the part over the axel. Yours looks good enough to be saved. Check with NPD and mustangs unlimited, I know there is a patch panel you can buy to replace where there is some swiss cheese goin on. (This again is the section in front of gas tank) If I were you I would start there. Fit the patch panel and be sure the gas tank fits just right. Weld it and move to one of the sides of the trunk floor. Like I said before, this is MY opinion and others may speak up and give their advice, but I would start from the inside and work my way out. Try to keep what's left of the quarters on, because that will be your guide to how the trunk pieces should fit. Once you have the trunk floors mocked, then I would mock up the quarters, make sure it all fits nicely - then go back and weld the trunk pieces.

Also, don't cut everything out at once, do one panel at a time. Use your gas tank as a guide. If it fits, you are on the right track.
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Old 09-30-2010, 01:23 PM   #29
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Yeah, the way I've seen it done, is you remove as little as possible for each repair. I've even seen rear frame rails replaced while leaving the rotten floor, as a dimensional jig, in place. Once the rails are perfectly installed, the floor is replaced. I'd do all the floors, rails, and rockers before moving to the outer sheetmetal. Do the quarters, doors, and fenders in that order. Leave the doors on, perfectly aligned, as a guide for the quarters.
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Old 10-01-2010, 10:08 PM   #30
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Thank you all for the advise! At first I didn't understand what the gas tank had to do with anything. Now I see it's actually the bottom of the trunk floor! Wow, that seems crazy to me. But it is what it is. Great advise!

So I'm reading under frequently ask questions and looking at the floor repair, also all of the build links posted here on this thread. All fantastic, and by the way Aaron, your a lucky man. Wish my wife was as interested in what I do in the garage. And an equal partner in the work!

So a few quick questions:
#1. What's a torque box, and do I need one?
#2. If this is basically stock, do I need frame connecters? (By the Tin Man)

I'm sure I'll have more questions and thank you all for taking the time to help me. I'm going to start on Monday, so hopefully I'm ready.
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Old 10-03-2010, 07:09 AM   #31
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If you have them, they will be under the toeboards. Your car did not come with front torque boxes from the factory. They could have been added at some point but yes, I would add them if they are not there. Torque boxes add quite a bit of rigidity to the unibody.

Here's a good how to:

http://www.mustangmonthly.com/projec...box/index.html

As far as the subframe connectors, I would recommend them, too. Especially since you are going to be replacing the floors, subframe connectors will keep the body in line and will help prevent any twisting or movement. But, if you want to restore to original, don't add either!
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Old 10-03-2010, 12:09 PM   #32
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NoReigns is correct if you are restoring to original do not add either. If you are looking to restomod, pro-touring or just make a fun driver I would definitely add them. The unibody construction (no frame) makes the car less rigid. If you want it to handle well a stiffer body will help. Having said that I would suggest the Tinman for subframe connectors. Everything I have read gives them good reviews.

For my sheetmetal I used all Dynacorn pieces. Granted I am limited compared to the 65-68 crowd as far as the parts since I have a 69. I will say the doors have an added crash/safety bar inside the doors I bought that I really like. I don't want to think about someone hitting the car but if they do I like the extra safety over the original ones.
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Old 10-04-2010, 12:57 PM   #33
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Something I thought I should mention about the door fitment:

-the factory fitment on these cars wasn't the best
-my factory doors and quarter panels didn't meet well, mostly in and out problems
-I had to drill out the quarter panel welds at the door pillar and move the quarter panel in and out to get the best fitment with the door

Good luck.
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Old 10-06-2010, 09:54 PM   #34
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Ok, it looks like I'm going to have some issues with fit. Right now the driver's side door is about a quarter of an inch too high, at the top. About an eighth of an inch too low in the middle, and just about right at the bottom! haha

I do have a question, on the front fenders, at the very bottom, behind the wheel well (like where you would have a mud flap). Both sides are pointing out and it doesn't look like there is a mount of any kind there? I didn't take the car apart so I don't know. I would expect to see a bracket to adjust and secure the fender there??
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Old 10-07-2010, 11:33 AM   #35
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Door alignment picture.http://mustangforums.com/forum/membe...alignment.html
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Old 10-07-2010, 11:38 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bent metal View Post
Ok, it looks like I'm going to have some issues with fit. Right now the driver's side door is about a quarter of an inch too high, at the top. About an eighth of an inch too low in the middle, and just about right at the bottom! haha

I do have a question, on the front fenders, at the very bottom, behind the wheel well (like where you would have a mud flap). Both sides are pointing out and it doesn't look like there is a mount of any kind there? I didn't take the car apart so I don't know. I would expect to see a bracket to adjust and secure the fender there??
On a 67-68, yes.

Align the door to the quarter. Then align the fender to the door.
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Old 10-07-2010, 12:30 PM   #37
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Even with "what is supposed to be the best" golden legion doors I had to cut, weld and fill the doors to make they fit. The right door fit different than the left door too. Get the alignment to the rear quarter AND the rocker. I say both because my pass door fit perfect to the qtr but the seam was 1/2" off from front to rear along the rocker. I found I had to weld additional metal to the rear of the door to close up the seam. Then hood (get the seam perfect along the cowl) then fenders, then front end then see how to get the fender to align to the door.
Although I'm not through this entire process yet, its what the guys in the shop at the Mustang Barn told me to do.
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Old 10-07-2010, 07:04 PM   #38
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Very much appreciate all the advise. I'm following it all as well. The car looks to have been T-boned at one time, on the driver's side. I think that's why the body lines are so bad there. The new panels look pretty good so far. Since I'm installing new quarters as well, the poor fit on the driver's side should be ok when all of it is new.

Tomorrow I start cutting.

So there is no support bracket on the front fender. Only on 67-68's. Well, I'd like to add one if they don't look too obvious. Anyone have a picture? Or do I just wing it?

One more thing, all over the place on this car there are little blobs of braze on the joints. Is that normal?
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Old 10-10-2010, 02:58 PM   #39
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You using an iPhone? That car is 6" long on my laptop. OK, this close enough for you?
I was poking fun at the distance you were from the car. Can't judge a gaps worth from 60 ft away, or at an angle. Lol, don't get butt hurt jeez.
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Old 10-25-2010, 03:21 PM   #40
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This project is a bit overwhelming. Seems like I'm replacing more than I'm keeping. Also, removing spot welds turned out to be not as much fun as I thought it would be.
I still haven't posted enough here to be allowed to insert pictures. But here's a link to the photo album that's on this site.
http://mustangforums.com/forum/membe...993-small.html
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Old 10-25-2010, 03:21 PM
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1965, 65, 66, fastback, floolpans, floor, golden, issues, legion, mustang, npd, panel, quarter, repair, rust, trunk

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