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1965 fast back with major rust

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Old 10-25-2010, 03:30 PM   #41
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Did you ever use the doors? I'm trying to figure out if I should fight the battle to save my doors or replace them.
I would fight the battle. My driver side door we could save and the other is a repop.

Let's put it this way....I am thinking of trying to find an original door that can be repaired and painted to match on the local Craigs list or something along those lines.
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Old 10-25-2010, 03:58 PM   #42
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Keep up the good work- it's not easy but you are doing it!
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Old 10-25-2010, 06:46 PM   #43
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Many of us understand where your at and it is a long process. The thing of it is when your finished the feeling of knowing just what you've done is rewarding. Its quite a bit different then buying one already finished and simply being the owner. When its completed all the work and frustration will have been worth it.

Keep going and remember to take a break from the project now and then. Then return to it refreshed, focus on 1 thing, get it done and move onto another area.
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Old 10-25-2010, 08:15 PM   #44
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Stick with original tooling items. Money well spent. Not much choice on the floor. Be sure you get the full floor with the groove for the emergency brake cable. The early ones did not.
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Old 10-26-2010, 05:45 AM   #45
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Many of us understand where your at and it is a long process. The thing of it is when your finished the feeling of knowing just what you've done is rewarding. Its quite a bit different then buying one already finished and simply being the owner. When its completed all the work and frustration will have been worth it.

Keep going and remember to take a break from the project now and then. Then return to it refreshed, focus on 1 thing, get it done and move onto another area.
+1 !! Just remember, anyone can write a check, but only a few can actually leave their fingerprint. Keep up the good work we all know it'll be awesome when it's done.
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Old 10-29-2010, 08:46 PM   #46
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THANK YOU ALL VERY MUCH! For the words of encouragement. It's very much appreciated. I have a new found respect for anyone who has done a job like this. It's a lot more work then I expected. I'll finish it though.

So I'm finally starting to put things back on. I put the floor in, it looks close. Then I put the inner fender well on. Haha, I had to laugh. It reminded me of the movie Jaws when the guy says "We're going to need a bigger boat." haha, I'm think I'm going to need a bigger hammer! haha Everything seems to be off just a little. But each problem makes the next part worse, then the next worse then before. Oh wow. This is going to take some patience for sure. I'll get it though.

Thank you all once again for the great advice, all of it.
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Old 11-09-2010, 11:22 AM   #47
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Alright, I'm still workin' on it. I've had the entire back on. It doesn't fit! I think these replacement parts aren't that bad if your adding one or two pieces. But when your re-doing a large area, that first piece being an eighth too wide, then the second piece is too. By the time you get to the forth or fifth piece your a half inch from where you should be. ...Still better then trying to make the parts yourself, right?

So where the quarter connects to the body, there is a factory lead seam. What are most people doing there? Am I going to have to learn how to do lead work?!?!

Here is a link to pictures of what's new on the car. Ahhh! I went out of order on the pics. When you link to it, click "previous pic" to go in order. Sorry.
http://mustangforums.com/forum/membe...new-piece.html

Last edited by bent metal; 11-09-2010 at 11:25 AM.
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Old 11-09-2010, 11:49 AM   #48
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The lead can be removed by using a torch. Wear a mask, gloves and goggles and slowly allow the flame to melt the lead and use a wire brush to help it along. When you weld the new quarter on, you should use a high quality body filler AFTER the you epoxy primer the body. Lead isn't necessary unless you are restoring a car to factory specs.
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Old 11-09-2010, 12:21 PM   #49
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Looking good. I know what you mean about the parts, you show your rear qtr to the qtr extender piece being off. When I was at Glazier Noland they had the same problem, they had to cut the qrt and put a piece in to make it fit. Wasn't a pretty sight but in the end turned out perfect.
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Old 11-09-2010, 01:21 PM   #50
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We used a fiberglass based compound to build up the joint area. I want to say it was called Dynaglass? It worked out just fine.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg drv qtr welded2.jpg (15.9 KB, 29 views)
File Type: jpg removing drv qtr3.jpg (16.9 KB, 24 views)
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Old 11-13-2010, 11:44 AM   #51
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I'm a little worried about applying a plastic filler that thick. Has anyone filled this area with plastic and seen if it lasts? I would think the expansion and contraction from the sun would be at too much of a difference for the surrounding metal? I'm afraid it would crack, long term.
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Old 11-13-2010, 02:56 PM   #52
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The glass/resin compound I used is not a plastic filler like bondo. I seems to be a tried and true practice, as I have had no issues whatsoever. When you get it all blended don, its less than a 1/4" thick. A thin coat of bondo over that and you're good to go. The other alternative is the lead type filler that Eastwood sells.
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Old 11-15-2010, 10:51 AM   #53
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Sounds like you used "kitty-hair"?? Maybe something similar?

hmm, I might just let the paint shop worry about this problem?
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Old 11-16-2010, 05:33 AM   #54
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We are using Everglass. Similar to "Kitty-Hair." Anything you can avoid having the paint shop do will save you some big bucks. You are doing a nice job, keep up the updates.
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Old 11-16-2010, 06:02 AM   #55
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Alright, I'm still workin' on it. I've had the entire back on. It doesn't fit! I think these replacement parts aren't that bad if your adding one or two pieces. But when your re-doing a large area, that first piece being an eighth too wide, then the second piece is too. By the time you get to the forth or fifth piece your a half inch from where you should be. ...Still better then trying to make the parts yourself, right?
Replace one part at a time. This is an old floor with a new frame rail under it, and transition pan in place.:

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 11-16-2010, 06:16 PM   #56
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Too late to replace one part at a time. I already cut it all off, the whole back end, floor and all.
This web site won't let me post pictures yet, I don't have enough posts. But here's a link to the pics.
http://mustangforums.com/forum/membe...993-small.html
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Old 11-17-2010, 09:28 AM   #57
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Take your new frame rails extensions and mock them up. Measure the length of them and make sure it is EXACTLY the same as before you cut them off. Then, mock your new (or old) floor pans up like 2+2GT shows in that pic. Drop your gas tank in there and line the holes up. It's all like a puzzle, but if ONE piece is off then everything will be off. I suggest you start with your new frame rails and make sure you have them dead on perfect length before you go any further. Also, remember these new repro pieces are not perfect. They have to be made to fit and that may require some banging, cutting, shaving etc. Just try your hardest to make sure your frame rails are PERFECT before trying to fit anything else. Keep up the good work.
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Old 11-17-2010, 11:21 AM   #58
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Actually "No Reins", that's what I'm doing now. I followed your advise from early on, and before I cut anything off I measured some stuff. If you check the pictures you'll see. Right now the frame rail in the back is welded in and so is the trunk floor. Now I'm working on the quarters and the inner fenders.

If someone is willing to take the time maybe they could copy and paste some of the pictures here on this thread??? ...maybe, please?
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Old 11-17-2010, 11:44 AM   #59
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Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

I didn't realize you had already welded the trunk floor in. If you subscribe to photobucket you can upload pics pretty easy. Hope this helps.
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Old 11-17-2010, 09:08 PM   #60
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Wow you really are bringing this car back from the dead. I think I underestimated your work load just looking at one or two pics, but I'm glad to see another mustang saved from the crusher, keep up the great work!!!
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Old 11-17-2010, 09:08 PM
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1965, 65, 66, fastback, floolpans, floor, golden, issues, legion, mustang, npd, panel, quarter, repair, rust, trunk

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