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1965 fast back with major rust

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Old 11-13-2010, 11:44 AM
  #51  
bent metal
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I'm a little worried about applying a plastic filler that thick. Has anyone filled this area with plastic and seen if it lasts? I would think the expansion and contraction from the sun would be at too much of a difference for the surrounding metal? I'm afraid it would crack, long term.
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Old 11-13-2010, 02:56 PM
  #52  
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The glass/resin compound I used is not a plastic filler like bondo. I seems to be a tried and true practice, as I have had no issues whatsoever. When you get it all blended don, its less than a 1/4" thick. A thin coat of bondo over that and you're good to go. The other alternative is the lead type filler that Eastwood sells.
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Old 11-15-2010, 10:51 AM
  #53  
bent metal
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Sounds like you used "kitty-hair"?? Maybe something similar?

hmm, I might just let the paint shop worry about this problem?
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Old 11-16-2010, 05:33 AM
  #54  
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We are using Everglass. Similar to "Kitty-Hair." Anything you can avoid having the paint shop do will save you some big bucks. You are doing a nice job, keep up the updates.
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Old 11-16-2010, 06:02 AM
  #55  
2+2GT
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Originally Posted by bent metal
Alright, I'm still workin' on it. I've had the entire back on. It doesn't fit! I think these replacement parts aren't that bad if your adding one or two pieces. But when your re-doing a large area, that first piece being an eighth too wide, then the second piece is too. By the time you get to the forth or fifth piece your a half inch from where you should be. ...Still better then trying to make the parts yourself, right?
Replace one part at a time. This is an old floor with a new frame rail under it, and transition pan in place.:

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Old 11-16-2010, 06:16 PM
  #56  
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Too late to replace one part at a time. I already cut it all off, the whole back end, floor and all.
This web site won't let me post pictures yet, I don't have enough posts. But here's a link to the pics.
https://mustangforums.com/forum/memb...993-small.html
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Old 11-17-2010, 09:28 AM
  #57  
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Take your new frame rails extensions and mock them up. Measure the length of them and make sure it is EXACTLY the same as before you cut them off. Then, mock your new (or old) floor pans up like 2+2GT shows in that pic. Drop your gas tank in there and line the holes up. It's all like a puzzle, but if ONE piece is off then everything will be off. I suggest you start with your new frame rails and make sure you have them dead on perfect length before you go any further. Also, remember these new repro pieces are not perfect. They have to be made to fit and that may require some banging, cutting, shaving etc. Just try your hardest to make sure your frame rails are PERFECT before trying to fit anything else. Keep up the good work.
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Old 11-17-2010, 11:21 AM
  #58  
bent metal
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Actually "No Reins", that's what I'm doing now. I followed your advise from early on, and before I cut anything off I measured some stuff. If you check the pictures you'll see. Right now the frame rail in the back is welded in and so is the trunk floor. Now I'm working on the quarters and the inner fenders.

If someone is willing to take the time maybe they could copy and paste some of the pictures here on this thread??? ...maybe, please?
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Old 11-17-2010, 11:44 AM
  #59  
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I didn't realize you had already welded the trunk floor in. If you subscribe to photobucket you can upload pics pretty easy. Hope this helps.
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Old 11-17-2010, 09:08 PM
  #60  
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Wow you really are bringing this car back from the dead. I think I underestimated your work load just looking at one or two pics, but I'm glad to see another mustang saved from the crusher, keep up the great work!!!
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