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Old 09-08-2010, 10:41 AM   #11
chip_127
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Good ole rustoleum! I am using the same thing for the interior floor pans. I got lucky and didn't have any major rust so I am scuffing it laying a little primer on it then top coating with rustoleum semi gloss black. Should give me a good foundation for dynamat, or something like it.
I plan on welding in some patches for my shock towers. They cut a pretty ragged hole in both of mine so I will have to square it up first then lay a patch in. Shouldn't be too bad.
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Old 09-08-2010, 03:51 PM   #12
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Yeah, I would not change out towers for that, I would just clean up the edges and patch it. It could turn out invisible if you trat it like you would a fender or body panel....just dont skimp on the metal thickness. Maybe you could find a donor tower to get metal from?
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Old 09-09-2010, 08:01 AM   #13
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I shouldn't have a problem getting a few small pieces for the patch - I work for a metal fabrication shop and they always have pieces of "scrap" laying around. I just need to check the thickness of the tower and I should be able to find something real close.
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Old 09-09-2010, 12:29 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HEADACHEZ View Post
Yeah the shock towers is a huge blow to for me as well. Apparently back in the days people would torch the holes to get to the grease fittings in the A-arms. I am just going to continue my project and have them repaired when I have the car painted.

On the paint I'm just using a spray can, Rustoleum engine primer that can withstand 500 degrees. I only sprayed the primer on one side to see how it would look. Once I'm finished with all the sanding I will primer the entire engine bay and other side. Then I am going to Rustoleum semi-gloss black in a spray can over everything. I am hoping to have everything primed by the end of this weekend. I'm about 80% done with the sanding at this point.



Thanks and good luck on your project!! Shoot me a link to your posts or start a thread. I love seeing other people's progress and ideas.
This is my thread that I have going....
http://mustangforums.com/forum/class...7-mustang.html
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Old 09-09-2010, 04:33 PM   #15
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That a fantastic Fathers Day gift. You sure dug into it fast.
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Old 09-11-2010, 03:06 PM   #16
HEADACHEZ
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Well here is the progress as of today will have it all primed by tomorrow. The only thing holding me up is the master cylinder. Looking through my shop manual to try to figure out how to remove it. Once I get it out I will finish the prep and start priming........

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Old 09-12-2010, 12:47 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HEADACHEZ View Post
The only thing holding me up is the master cylinder. Looking through my shop manual to try to figure out how to remove it. Once I get it out I will finish the prep and start priming........
Unless you're talking of something more complicated, it should just be those two bolts. It also connects to the brake with a pin that runs all the way though. Hard to explain but you just gotta get the pin out and those bolts.
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Old 09-12-2010, 01:02 AM   #18
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Unless you're talking of something more complicated, it should just be those two bolts. It also connects to the brake with a pin that runs all the way though. Hard to explain but you just gotta get the pin out and those bolts.
Thanks! I looked in the shop manual and it came out with ease! Damn I love this site!

Well finally I have finished all the prep and have the complete engine bay primed inside and out.... I'm going to let the primer set over night and spray the black semi gloss tomorrow morning. I hope the semi gloss comes out as nice as the primer did.

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Old 09-12-2010, 01:09 AM   #19
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What shop manual do you use? Is it the CD/PDF version?

And the primer's looking good! Hopefully my engine bay will look the same soon!

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Old 09-12-2010, 01:13 AM   #20
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What shop manual do you use? Is it the CD/PDF version?
No I bought the book version from CJ Pony parts for around $38
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Old 09-12-2010, 01:13 AM
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1965, 40l, 46l, coupe, floor, ford, interior, mod, mustang, pans, project, resto, restomod, rustoleum, thickness

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