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Old 09-12-2010, 12:21 AM   #21
hightower2011
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No I bought the book version from CJ Pony parts for around $38
I think that's a better decision, haha. I got the PDF version and it was a hassle to install on windows 7.


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Old 09-12-2010, 10:22 PM   #22
HEADACHEZ
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Well I finished painting the entire apron and engine bay of the car. I would have to say I am very disappointed with the final results. As you can see from the pictures the black did not come out smooth like the primer did.... I feel as if all my hard work was for nothing :-(

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Old 09-12-2010, 10:47 PM   #23
67 newb
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NICE WORK HEADACHEZ!

We're nearly in the same boat.
I rippd out both fender aprons and radiator support and welded in new ones
Grinded down and cleaned the entire front engine bay, primed and paint
Rebuilt entire front suspension with shelby drop
New steering
Converted to fron disc brakes

Will eventually restore the entire interior as well

Currently working on the rear.
Ripped out gas tank, just ordered my new one
cleaned and primed/undercoated wheel wells
New rear suspension as been sitting around with mid eye leaf springs

Going to install tank / prime paint all around and work on the trunk next. This is my first project car ever, so it's been taking me a while, a long while....you seem to be soaring through this!
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Old 09-12-2010, 10:49 PM   #24
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It looks great in some places!

Is that roughness near the bottom the paint bubbling? Maybe just some sanding and a respray will fix it up.
Sorry to hear it isn't going perfect, but like I said it looks great in some places.
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Old 09-13-2010, 08:02 AM   #25
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I would suggest trying a high build primer in a gun, this sill fill the voids in the rough spots near the battery tray. Just dont overdo it and cover the spot weld details.
Once sprayed you can sand it smooth or make it "flat" as they say, then paint over it with a product with hardener in it.
I use a lot of rattle can myself but for larger areas that need to be durable I use a gun. Even a cheap gun will do a better job than the best rattle can for larger areas. If that is rattle can paint it has no hardener in it and if you try to spray serious primer or paint over top of it the hardener in the new product could cause the can based products to lift and peel.

My suggestion would be to remove that down to metal again and try it with better products, you wont have that much invested but the long term durability & quality will be much better.
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Old 09-13-2010, 09:39 AM   #26
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what happened to the area behind the battery?

the roughness looks like dirt and rust pitting. the paint looks thin in places as well (but that might just be reflections). IMO, you need to decide how much you care about the engine bay. once you get everything back in there, you won't see 90% of the rough areas. or you can spend another 10-20 hrs stripping the paint, smoothing out the rust (or replacing metal) and cleaning out the dirt.
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Old 09-13-2010, 04:42 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by 67 newb View Post
NICE WORK HEADACHEZ!

We're nearly in the same boat.
I rippd out both fender aprons and radiator support and welded in new ones
Grinded down and cleaned the entire front engine bay, primed and paint
Rebuilt entire front suspension with shelby drop
New steering
Converted to fron disc brakes

Will eventually restore the entire interior as well

Currently working on the rear.
Ripped out gas tank, just ordered my new one
cleaned and primed/undercoated wheel wells
New rear suspension as been sitting around with mid eye leaf springs

Going to install tank / prime paint all around and work on the trunk next. This is my first project car ever, so it's been taking me a while, a long while....you seem to be soaring through this!
Thanks!!! Wow you are way ahead of me good luck with all the hard work.

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Originally Posted by hightower2011 View Post
It looks great in some places!

Is that roughness near the bottom the paint bubbling? Maybe just some sanding and a respray will fix it up.
Sorry to hear it isn't going perfect, but like I said it looks great in some places.
Near the bottom it's some rough spots.

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I would suggest trying a high build primer in a gun, this sill fill the voids in the rough spots near the battery tray. Just dont overdo it and cover the spot weld details.
Once sprayed you can sand it smooth or make it "flat" as they say, then paint over it with a product with hardener in it.
I use a lot of rattle can myself but for larger areas that need to be durable I use a gun. Even a cheap gun will do a better job than the best rattle can for larger areas. If that is rattle can paint it has no hardener in it and if you try to spray serious primer or paint over top of it the hardener in the new product could cause the can based products to lift and peel.

My suggestion would be to remove that down to metal again and try it with better products, you wont have that much invested but the long term durability & quality will be much better.
I did use rattle can but it does look way better than it did originally in my opinion. I just wanted a much cleaner look but I will live.

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what happened to the area behind the battery?

the roughness looks like dirt and rust pitting. the paint looks thin in places as well (but that might just be reflections). IMO, you need to decide how much you care about the engine bay. once you get everything back in there, you won't see 90% of the rough areas. or you can spend another 10-20 hrs stripping the paint, smoothing out the rust (or replacing metal) and cleaning out the dirt.
I agree with you once the engine goes in most of will be covered. The area behind the battery is rusted and pitted and will need to replaced at a later time. The original battery did it's fair share of damage.

Thanks everyone for all the support and invaluable help so far!
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Old 09-13-2010, 04:55 PM   #28
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I did the same with mine however I "primed" with por15 and then topcoat with chassis black. Had the same issue as you but only in a couple of places, the por15 did a great job hiding things.

Overall it looks pretty good, just touch up the couple of places that need it.
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Old 09-13-2010, 09:54 PM   #29
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i was referring to the wrinkles in the area behind the battery, not the pitting it looks like it was hit really hard there?
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Old 09-13-2010, 10:03 PM   #30
HEADACHEZ
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i was referring to the wrinkles in the area behind the battery, not the pitting it looks like it was hit really hard there?
Yeah your right it must have taken a hit there at some time in its life. When the fenders where on it was straight, also the car drove and stopped straight. However it definitely took a hit at one time.
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Old 09-13-2010, 10:03 PM
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