seat of the pants dyno and timing
08-27-2010, 08:01 AM
#14
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Insanity
Posts: 2,176
I used to run with it locked in at 28 with no advance.
Now I run it with super light springs just to make the idle/starting in cold without a choke a little easier and it is all in (34) at 1000-1200rpm.
Prior to that I had heavy springs and was all in (34) at 2800.
In all cases I've never seen a change in my fuel economy. It might be my gearing, any benefit would be seen at highway and when I cruise on the highway I am moving 70 or so MPH so my RPMs are up there.
Now I run it with super light springs just to make the idle/starting in cold without a choke a little easier and it is all in (34) at 1000-1200rpm.
Prior to that I had heavy springs and was all in (34) at 2800.
In all cases I've never seen a change in my fuel economy. It might be my gearing, any benefit would be seen at highway and when I cruise on the highway I am moving 70 or so MPH so my RPMs are up there.
09-09-2010, 03:58 PM
#18
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Texas Hill Country
Posts: 2,100
I freaking hate installing plug wires on my Mustang...simply no room and the plug wire pliers never work right. If I check a plug, I always pull #1 or #7 or #8 as those are the only ones I can really get to without bleeding and cussing all over the place. Good luck...I know the MSD6AL is going to help...I love mine. Just make sure it is not in a place that water can flow into it. I killed one in the car wash when I first installed it. Had to push her out and get a tow back home.
09-10-2010, 04:45 AM
#19
6th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Cork, Ireland
Posts: 6,417
hiya,
i swapped the lot, see my monologue there :-)
https://mustangforums.com/forum/clas...-business.html
I have a feeling that part of the improvement is coming from the spark leads. I removed the original connector at distributor and replaced with HEI type to match the new one. I made a way better job clamping tyhem. I haven't found a good spark lead crimper either. this time I used an end cutter (nipper). whatever it might be called. worked quite well.
The main difference before and later is that now it seems that the ignition is dictating now. for example before i could advance to 20 degrees initial and I wouldn't have any problem hard starting. it would take a bit but the engine would turn freely and eventually fire. as if the ignition would have said: too much hassle, i try fire later.
now the ignition fires when set and does not tolerate anything from engine and too far advanced she is very hard starting (like as if the battery is dead). the way it should be. I don't have any explanation why this is now better than before.
Anyway my problems seemed resolved. car is screaming
i swapped the lot, see my monologue there :-)
https://mustangforums.com/forum/clas...-business.html
I have a feeling that part of the improvement is coming from the spark leads. I removed the original connector at distributor and replaced with HEI type to match the new one. I made a way better job clamping tyhem. I haven't found a good spark lead crimper either. this time I used an end cutter (nipper). whatever it might be called. worked quite well.
The main difference before and later is that now it seems that the ignition is dictating now. for example before i could advance to 20 degrees initial and I wouldn't have any problem hard starting. it would take a bit but the engine would turn freely and eventually fire. as if the ignition would have said: too much hassle, i try fire later.
now the ignition fires when set and does not tolerate anything from engine and too far advanced she is very hard starting (like as if the battery is dead). the way it should be. I don't have any explanation why this is now better than before.
Anyway my problems seemed resolved. car is screaming
Last edited by kalli; 09-10-2010 at 07:29 AM.
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