Getting Started
08-25-2010, 09:54 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: texas
Posts: 9
Getting Started
Ok got my first batch of parts being delvered tomoro, I will be posting pics as I intall new floor pans first then on to the next, to stay tuned as I will most likely have a few questions down the road.
08-25-2010, 02:23 PM
#2
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: texas
Posts: 9
1 more thing, i have done some body work before but have never replaced a floor pan, I plan on drilling out spot welds and using cut off saw on the hump once i determine where to cut, I get the pans tomorrow, any word of advice before I begin?
08-25-2010, 06:24 PM
#3
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Pickford MI
Posts: 88
Read this--not your year but close enough for what your doing. One of the things I read 10 times before I did the pans in my 72.
http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/...ace/index.html
On the trans hump I overlaped the new pan with the old hump--mines a driver not a Barrette Jackson car-and that is one spot I was not about to butt weld grind yada yada. I seam sealed all the way around inside the car and under the car.
When your taking out the old pans dont try to do it in one piece--take a section here and there till you get it all out. On the outside edges I used a sawzall as close as I could get--then drilled the spotweld then seperated the small strip that was left.
Take care not to cut you gas line--brake cable--or any of the supports.
Cut fit cut fit cut fit repeat--dont cut if your not sure--you dont want to add more material back. On that note I only cut the material off the trans hump that I needed to to get to solid metal--then trimmed the pan down. Pan was a bit ill fitting on the trans hump compared to the rest of the way around. If you can leave where the seat bolts are.
Measure and mark where the seat bases go--I used marker and outlined the mounting areas--some got ground out but I had measured everything a dozen different places.
http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/...ace/index.html
On the trans hump I overlaped the new pan with the old hump--mines a driver not a Barrette Jackson car-and that is one spot I was not about to butt weld grind yada yada. I seam sealed all the way around inside the car and under the car.
When your taking out the old pans dont try to do it in one piece--take a section here and there till you get it all out. On the outside edges I used a sawzall as close as I could get--then drilled the spotweld then seperated the small strip that was left.
Take care not to cut you gas line--brake cable--or any of the supports.
Cut fit cut fit cut fit repeat--dont cut if your not sure--you dont want to add more material back. On that note I only cut the material off the trans hump that I needed to to get to solid metal--then trimmed the pan down. Pan was a bit ill fitting on the trans hump compared to the rest of the way around. If you can leave where the seat bolts are.
Measure and mark where the seat bases go--I used marker and outlined the mounting areas--some got ground out but I had measured everything a dozen different places.
08-25-2010, 06:28 PM
#4
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Pickford MI
Posts: 88
Oh and do one side at a time.
And if you plan on taking your motor and trans out at some point anyway--do it before you do the pans. You can do the pans with the motor and trans in but its alot easier to do this with them out--esp if you do it right and seal all the seams and paint etc underneath--if you dont then plan on them having to be done after they rust again lol
And if you plan on taking your motor and trans out at some point anyway--do it before you do the pans. You can do the pans with the motor and trans in but its alot easier to do this with them out--esp if you do it right and seal all the seams and paint etc underneath--if you dont then plan on them having to be done after they rust again lol
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