Chris Kennedy

Hi:

I have a manual Total Control Products steering rack on my '65, and it's great except for one issue. Everything on the system is tight and properly adjusted, the wheel bearings and tire balance are fine, etc., but I have noticed that on some road surfaces at between 60 and 70 mph I can get a slight wheel shimmy, and on others at this speed its fine. I am thinking that this is a sort of "kick back" through the system. Indeed, as time goes on it also seems to be getting less as, I suspect, things wear in. Has anyone else experienced it?

Thanks,

/s/ Chris Kennedy

Starfury

Honestly, it sounds more like a tire/alignment issue. Out of balance tires can do that, as can some instances of improper alignment.

Chris Kennedy

Thanks! Actually, I THINK I have solved it. For some time I had suspected the left front wheel bearing, even though a terrific mechanic I have swore the bearing was fine, had greased, checked it, adjusted it etc. (I got sort of a "dry bearing" feel in slow turns through the steering wheel in slow turns---I think you know the feeling). Well, I had the car in with the mechanic getting an original Shelby Pod installed yesterday, and decided to experiment and asked him to simply replace the wheel bearing. Well, driving home, I crossed my fingers and went several times along a stretch of road and a speed where I got the shimmy, and, voila, no shimmy! Cross your fingers, but this is appears to be a cheap and easy fix. In the past, I have had trouble with wheel bearings that seem to be o.k. for all you can see, but aren't. This may be one of those times. Suffice it to say I am delighted. Again, thanks for the reply.

/s/ Chris

69mach1377

I have a similar issue with my FR setup. I figured it was because it was such a tight setup that any vibes now make it up to the steering wheel. I was considered using a damped u-joint in place of the solid one that came with the kit, but your discovery is also worth considering.
Have you tested more under different conditions to verify that your solution is final?

Chris Kennedy

Hi! Yeah, I need to do more testing, BUT I have been following this problem for awhile, and also have certain test stretches of highway, speeds etc. where I definately had the problem before, but apparently not now. I will continue testing, but the fact that the problem has seemingly ended immediately after I changed out the suspect wheel bearing is encouraging. It may be that we have to pay a lot more attention to wheel bearings with these units, given that they are so much more precise. Is the u-joint you are talking about one with a fiber washer?

Thanks,
/s/ Chris

69mach1377

Here is an example;
http://www.flamingriver.com/index.ph...5/s0010/FR1899
I haven't really searched for more than a minute just now.

Chris Kennedy

Thanks---that's a very interesting piece of equipment, although I would want to make sure that there is still some sort of solid metal connection (sort of like a rag joint still has bolts). Anyhow, testing continues and I think it's clear that the wheel bearing was the problem. My recommendation would be that you find the best wheel bearings you can, and adjust them precisely so there is only the required amount of play. Luckily, this appears to be a pretty cheap and quick fix for what I thought may have been a design problem with these rack and pinion set ups!

/s/ Chris

69mach1377

Was there an indication of a bad bearing when rotating the tire while jacked up?

Chris Kennedy

Some play was apparent. Perhaps you could adjust yours if there is play, too, and see if that helps.

/s/ Chris

69mach1377

I've adjusted my right front a couple of times. Maybe it's time to check again.
As for the u-joint example above, given the cost (and they are proud of them), I'm sure they somehow added an aborbing material to the structurally sound joint. It more than doubled the cost.