Go Back   MustangForums.com > Ford Mustang Tech > Classic Mustangs (Tech)
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?
Search


Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

Welcome to Mustang Forums!
Welcome to Mustang Forums.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!


Reply
 
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-02-2010, 12:01 PM   #1
Coupe
3rd Gear Member
 
Coupe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Vehicle: 1965 Fastback
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 710
Default Firewall to floor pans and but welding connections etc..?

OK, so I am going to do my drivers side firewall to floor, and also the drivers side long floor if it looks like it needs it. I am also going to change out the frame extensions.

My question is about the welds and the connection points, to do it right should I but weld the seams? I want it to look good underneath the car and I think any overlap would leave a place for rust to hide again.

And when I buy the new pieces will they have a folded lip on the side that welds to the inner rocker panel and the kick panel area?

I would really like to see some pics of this being done, so if you have any can I see?
This ad is not displayed to registered or logged-in members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Mustang Forums!
Coupe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2010, 03:37 PM   #2
LynnBob Mustang
5th Gear Member
 
LynnBob Mustang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Vehicle: 1999 GT, 1965 coupe
Location: PA
Posts: 2,180
Default

Right or wrong I over lap welded my pans. On the underneath with what gap I had I hammered it tight to the section it was welded to and I then put roofing stop leak sealer on the joints to keep any moister out. I then painted all that over with the truck bed coating.

Some people me balk at the idea of using roofing stop leak sealer on a car, but it has lasted years on my house roof around the chimney and pipes with no problems. Besides, a gallon of roof sealer was $13 and it is ton cheaper then using auto seam sealer at $5-6 for a small tube of the stuff. I also used it on all seams inside and it was paintable a well.

Lynn
__________________

'99 GT automatic
CDC Shaker scoop, K&N Filter
MAC cat back
Max Speed 1 ½” Lowering springs
KYB GR2 shocks and struts
Cobra front brakes

'65 Mustang coupe in progress
http://mustangforums.com/forum/class...s-of-pics.html
LynnBob Mustang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2010, 03:44 PM   #3
LynnBob Mustang
5th Gear Member
 
LynnBob Mustang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Vehicle: 1999 GT, 1965 coupe
Location: PA
Posts: 2,180
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Coupe View Post

And when I buy the new pieces will they have a folded lip on the side that welds to the inner rocker panel and the kick panel area?
The stock floor pan on a '65 has the rocker lip is folded upwards, my new front pan had it folded downwards. I still haven't fully welded that area as I still don't know if I'm keeping that rocker yet.
Lynn
__________________

'99 GT automatic
CDC Shaker scoop, K&N Filter
MAC cat back
Max Speed 1 ½” Lowering springs
KYB GR2 shocks and struts
Cobra front brakes

'65 Mustang coupe in progress
http://mustangforums.com/forum/class...s-of-pics.html
LynnBob Mustang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2010, 03:46 PM   #4
LynnBob Mustang
5th Gear Member
 
LynnBob Mustang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Vehicle: 1999 GT, 1965 coupe
Location: PA
Posts: 2,180
Default

Here is my left floor welded and done with the roofing stop leak sealer. I just used the sealer on all the welded joints inside and underneath.
Click the image to open in full size.
Right side patch as I wanted to keep as much original metal as possible
Click the image to open in full size.
The underneath is done similar.
Lynn
__________________

'99 GT automatic
CDC Shaker scoop, K&N Filter
MAC cat back
Max Speed 1 ½” Lowering springs
KYB GR2 shocks and struts
Cobra front brakes

'65 Mustang coupe in progress
http://mustangforums.com/forum/class...s-of-pics.html
LynnBob Mustang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2010, 03:48 PM   #5
66JameStang
4th Gear Member
 
66JameStang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Vehicle: 1966, Ford, Mustang
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 1,405
Default

I am a fan of butt welding panels together, but imo it is totally not needed for floor pans. It will take far more time than is worth it for the results butt welding (here) generates.

If you seal the seams with a good grade seam sealer rust will not be an issue worth mention.

Ooops, posted this on wrong account!!!!

I was trippin, Jim posted the same thing I did.... (duh)...

JMD
66JameStang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2010, 05:56 PM   #6
Coupe
3rd Gear Member
 
Coupe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Vehicle: 1965 Fastback
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 710
Default

Well, I want to try to restore the underside of the car over time, if I touch anything it must end up looking professional and correct. I really want to end up with a car that is worthy of crawling under.

What do the restoration shops do? Do they just go ahead and replace with a one piece floorpan? And if so, how do they connect to the firewall to floorpan steel?
Coupe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2010, 06:08 PM   #7
2+2GT
6th Gear Member
 
Join Date: May 2009
Vehicle: 66 Mustang 2+2GT
Location: PA
Posts: 5,222
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by LynnBob Mustang View Post
The stock floor pan on a '65 has the rocker lip is folded upwards, my new front pan had it folded downwards.
A down fold is a convertible floor.
2+2GT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2010, 06:13 PM   #8
2+2GT
6th Gear Member
 
Join Date: May 2009
Vehicle: 66 Mustang 2+2GT
Location: PA
Posts: 5,222
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Coupe View Post
What do the restoration shops do? Do they just go ahead and replace with a one piece floorpan? And if so, how do they connect to the firewall to floorpan steel?
Given the choice, a pro shop will replace the whole floor. The results are better, and at lower cost, than piecing it together.

Click the image to open in full size.
2+2GT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2010, 06:45 PM   #9
Coupe
3rd Gear Member
 
Coupe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Vehicle: 1965 Fastback
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 710
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2+2GT View Post
Given the choice, a pro shop will replace the whole floor. The results are better, and at lower cost, than piecing it together.

So in reality they overlapped and rosette & stitch welded that pan in place?
I wonder how they handled the underside air space between the panels? Do they weld those on the underside also to make it tight or just seam seal it?


I have often thought of attempting a one piece pan, but I will not know until I get the goo off of the underside to make the determination. My big concern is the firewall to floor pan piece, it would show up in the front wheel well and I dont want to see it every time I am looking at the car with the wheels turned, in reality the overlap may be stronger and less brittle than a but weld....
Coupe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2010, 07:05 PM   #10
2+2GT
6th Gear Member
 
Join Date: May 2009
Vehicle: 66 Mustang 2+2GT
Location: PA
Posts: 5,222
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Coupe View Post
So in reality they overlapped and rosette & stitch welded that pan in place?
I wonder how they handled the underside air space between the panels? Do they weld those on the underside also to make it tight or just seam seal it?
There was no air space, other that the typical mis-match often seen between the parts. Ford welded these panels (the floor and firewall) together with really big spot welders, but rosette welds work out just as well. Then a little Seam Sealer does the rest. The seam itself is a lap seam, with nearly two inches of overlap.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Coupe View Post
I have often thought of attempting a one piece pan, but I will not know until I get the goo off of the underside to make the determination. My big concern is the firewall to floor pan piece, it would show up in the front wheel well and I dont want to see it every time I am looking at the car with the wheels turned, in reality the overlap may be stronger and less brittle than a but weld....
No, it won't, it's impossible to see the floor through the wheel well, unless you are laying on your back on the ground.
2+2GT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2010, 07:05 PM
MustangForums
Ford Mustang




Paid Advertisement

 
 
 
Reply

Tags
1930, 65, 66, cylinder, extensions, firewall, floor, ford, mustang, pans, replace, resuration, rosette, weld, welding

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Forum Jump

Advertising

Featured Sponsors
Vendor Directory
New Sponsors
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:52 AM.

© Internet Brands, Inc.


This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company
Emails Backup