Spacer between carb and engine on 67 (289)
10-11-2010, 10:12 AM
#1
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: NC
Posts: 133
Spacer between carb and engine on 67 (289)
Spacer between carb and engine on 67 (289)
I took a carb and the spacer (is an inch think block sitting on bolts between carb and engine with a hose coming off) off of a large block 67 and went to put it on my 289.
The bolts/studs that come up are too short when I have the spacer in there. And If I leave that spacer out the carb is like an inch short of the air filter.
Is there a different spacer (or different size) I need to use on the small block versus the large block?
Hopefully I asked this question right. And hopefully I have described it well enough without pics (I don't have any).
I took a carb and the spacer (is an inch think block sitting on bolts between carb and engine with a hose coming off) off of a large block 67 and went to put it on my 289.
The bolts/studs that come up are too short when I have the spacer in there. And If I leave that spacer out the carb is like an inch short of the air filter.
Is there a different spacer (or different size) I need to use on the small block versus the large block?
Hopefully I asked this question right. And hopefully I have described it well enough without pics (I don't have any).
Last edited by maestro1024; 10-11-2010 at 10:26 AM.
10-12-2010, 10:24 AM
#4
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Cork, Ireland
Posts: 6,417
good to know. about every mustang I see with heat trouble at traffic jam, fuel boiling in carb after switch off we can cure most part of it with a 1" spacer. I was always wondering "how did that work when the engine was stock". well answer is there should always be one in there I guess from what I read here
10-15-2010, 05:04 AM
#5
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Smyrna, TN
Posts: 678
A better solution is a phenolic spacer to eliminate heat soak from the intake to carb., the original metal ones do a poor job of this and still heat the carb up. You'd have to check your carb to see if there is a PCV port on it to use as the stock plate had one.
I noticed a dramatic drop in carb temp when I installed a 1/2" phenolic spacer (they come 1" also) under my demon carb. Couldn't hardly touch the carb without, hot as the intake, could lean on it after as it was high warm but not burning like before. This means the gas gets heated to the same temp and looses efficiency in burning.
Jon
I noticed a dramatic drop in carb temp when I installed a 1/2" phenolic spacer (they come 1" also) under my demon carb. Couldn't hardly touch the carb without, hot as the intake, could lean on it after as it was high warm but not burning like before. This means the gas gets heated to the same temp and looses efficiency in burning.
Jon
10-15-2010, 06:22 AM
#6
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Cork, Ireland
Posts: 6,417
A better solution is a phenolic spacer to eliminate heat soak from the intake to carb., the original metal ones do a poor job of this and still heat the carb up. You'd have to check your carb to see if there is a PCV port on it to use as the stock plate had one.
I noticed a dramatic drop in carb temp when I installed a 1/2" phenolic spacer (they come 1" also) under my demon carb. Couldn't hardly touch the carb without, hot as the intake, could lean on it after as it was high warm but not burning like before. This means the gas gets heated to the same temp and looses efficiency in burning.
Jon
I noticed a dramatic drop in carb temp when I installed a 1/2" phenolic spacer (they come 1" also) under my demon carb. Couldn't hardly touch the carb without, hot as the intake, could lean on it after as it was high warm but not burning like before. This means the gas gets heated to the same temp and looses efficiency in burning.
Jon
10-17-2010, 06:59 PM
#7
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: tn
Posts: 889
Many small block ford intake manifolds have an exhaust crossover passage which can help in cold conditions but can cause carb to overheat in the summer. You can buy intake manifold gaskets which block these passages if you have trouble with vapor lock or overheated carb. Some after market carbs are very sensitive to overheating. The non-metalic spacers do help somewhat but remember that heat rises.
If you run headers it becomes even more challenging to control underhood temps.
If you run headers it becomes even more challenging to control underhood temps.
10-20-2010, 11:54 AM
#8
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: NC
Posts: 133
Does anyone know where I can pick up this phenolic carb?
Also, I think I need one without the hole at the top. The large block engine had the hole at the top of the space but I don't think I need that.
Also, I think I need one without the hole at the top. The large block engine had the hole at the top of the space but I don't think I need that.
10-20-2010, 12:36 PM
#10
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Cork, Ireland
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it's a phenbolic spacer, not carb. i missed if it's a 2barrell or 4 barrel.
just sort through this:
if have selected phenolic, 1" thick, including mounting hardware (sorts your stud problem), including gaskets. you just have to select the pattern
http://www.summitracing.com/search/P...henolic+spacer
if you have a 4barrel, I use the edelbrock one myself. happy with it
just sort through this:
if have selected phenolic, 1" thick, including mounting hardware (sorts your stud problem), including gaskets. you just have to select the pattern
http://www.summitracing.com/search/P...henolic+spacer
if you have a 4barrel, I use the edelbrock one myself. happy with it