tcrote5516

Didn't have too. There's enough length in the factory harness to cover the distance

kalli

ya, reading all that really helps a lot. I don't know at what time in my life I changed from soldering to crimping. It happened to me twice already that I caused problems with a bad crimp. at the rear of tank fuel pump. the pump would shut off every now and then. car would stall once a week but start again right away. It was only after it happened once standing with ignition on and the 'humm' missing that I could track it down.

So ya, cutting, soldering heatshrink. then all in some kind of harness. I like the original wiring tape, so will probably go with that and maybe if I go crazy at a later stage put a chines fingerlock around it (i know what you mean) ...
sort out the spark plug wires. I'll probably get a new cut to fit 135 degree set.

that sounds like a plan :-]

JMD

There are at least two kinds of crimpers, you have the regular old "cheap *** Crimpers" that are found in practically every homeowners "tool box" worldwide,

and then you have better crimpers, that will work pretty good.

Also, the quality and style of the terminal ends vary quite a bit as well. The better crimpers have changeable jaws for different (better) style terminals.

Crilmping can be good, good enough to last for decades, if a person buys the right terminals and the right tools to install them.

rst08tierney

clean and simple is always a good start

kalli

JMD: ya,very tru, left crimper s useless. I have the good sort of cripers, at least my buddy does where I did most of the work. No matter what crimper you have to give it a good pull to see if it worked, and the one I missed was in a tight spot so I couldn't check it properly. But i like terminals since you can easily disconnect and check (for troubleshooting).
Once soldered I's a pain ...

rst08tierney: I like te setup and I'm pretty sure that's how I clamp up the plugleads, however I'm unsure about your hose from the PVC. bummer with the edelbrocks to have the pickup in the front. Is that even a PVC in the back or is it a calculated vacuum leak? looks like the hose shoved into the cover
further I think you have your electrical choke hooked up to the selonoid "I" port. That will not work as this port only feeds 12V during start unless you have coil+ hooked up there as well. the electrical choke needs ignition 12V+. otherwise it will take forever for your choke to disengage (ambient heat only)

mr_velocity

Hmm, not so fast. What we found in the boating world is every solder joint will fail. It will break right where the wire goes from being filled with solder to being strands again. If there is any vibration it will break. Maybe not as quickly on a car but in the harsh boating environment very quickly.

What we found works best is crimp fitting that have heat shrink tubing attach as part of it. Something like this I'll use this connector, then put a piece of 4" shrink tube over the top. The better connectors have glue/sealant inside the shrink.

This is were a good crimp tool is your friend, something like this

JMD

LOL, it is almost crazy, everyone uses those cheap pos, combined with the terminal ends from the discount stores, it is no wonder crimping gets a bad rap.

I like the Weatherpack connectors for most of my connection needs, imo the "oem style" connections work pretty damn well.

mickman

Kalli, I plan on running my spark plug wires through a little billet holder that mounts to the valve covers bolts. It has four per side and progressively gets narrower. CJ Pony Parts sells them and I've seen them on my brother in law's trike - hopefully I'll have enough clearance, and they really keep plug wires organized and nice and tight. Let me know if you're interested and I can post the part number and you can check them out.

tx65coupe

Well hell. Oh well. I didn't think there would be.

tx65coupe

Your right about that. I still don't prefer crimping wires though.