kalli

ya, fully agreed to
"That said, if you like the way it drives, to hell with the dyno numbers"
:-)

thanks for uploading the charts, they are always good to look at, and good thing is you went there to gain 100HP. most people go to dyno and gain 20 :-)


only thing I'm curious about is the AFR curve in the 'better' run. I actually way prefer the original (in the bad run). I can#'t see the curve, but looking at the numbers:
It's a bit confusing that run#1 in chart is your last run (good) and #2 is the first one (bad)

good run: RWTQ (min/avg/max): 136/218/246
bad run : RWTQ (min/avg/max): 132/165/201

good run: AFR. that's the graph with the lean spike: min/avg/max: 11.6/12.6/15.4
bad run: AFR: min/avg/max: 12.4/13.3/13.8 (this I actually like!!)

If you changed timing and carb (both changed between runs), I would go back with the carb back to stock settings and retry only with the ignition.

what is curious as well is that the fella with the dyno says the timing doesn't match up. Well it's a freshly built engine so I'd say the balancer hasn't slipped. was it your own balancer or did you get a new one with the engine?

and ya, the rpm range for your cam is up to 6200 and currently the engine peaks HP out at around 5300-5400, so it's not the ideal cam for the build. But don't change that yet. if you're happy with it otherwise.

If it were my car I would either do that on the track or the dyno:
change carb back to stock. improvement?
if yes, leave like that and then adjust _total_ timing. retard 2 degrees, check again. if better go that direction, if worse go the other

somethign along the lines anyway. I think 220RWHP is already a lot of fun! and you might get even more out of it with more tuning

Any opinions on that#?





Kalli

Stangatic

The cam selection was solely on sound and I was warned that it would cause around a 10hp loss through out the power band. Maybe i should have stayed with the magnum cam that the engine builder used. But oh well, it sounds really good. Can any one tell me how to embed a video? I can post the dyno video


Kalli - in regards to the AFR, I always thought that you want it to be flat and within range of 12 - 13, but wasn't going to even question what the tuner was doing. He did win Jegs engine masters challenge in 2008 and he did stuff for NASCAR. So who am I to question.

In regards to the timing, this is something that I am totally baffled with. The engine builder did say that he sent the engine on TDC, and when the engine arrived the pointer mark was on TDC. We did rotate the engine around to check to see if it was on TDC when the pointer was on TDC and we confirmed that. But when it was at the dyno, the engine wanted the dyno graph on the first run shows the engine wants more timing. So it was adjusted. If you use the marks on the damper, initial timing would be at 28 deg. max is in the 40s which the tuner said that there is no way that the marks on the damper or the location of the pointer can be correct because of this. I specifically asked the engine builder to make sure that I could use the pointer in the stock location for a 66 mustang. So I am not sure what the deal is, but the engine does run!

kalli

i'd be hesitant to talk back to someone with experience as well. i'm still learning. You want the engine at the AFR range where it runs best. But one thing is for sure, you kinda want the curve flat in a WOT run. mayeb he's experienced with holleys and not so much with edelbrock.
As for the timing:
a) you assume 28 initial to be 40 total. has that ever been measured. But _fully_ agreed. 40 is very high for that engine. mine runs at around 32-34 (forgot to what I set it). so better keep it lower. it would have been nice to measure total timing, with a timing gun you can do it no problem without any duno.
b) you said you turned the engine and verified. did you actually check with a piston stop if the timing marks actually are correct?
c) video: yes! please :-) just upload the thing on youtube and post the link, that will automatically embed it

Stangatic

Kelli- Did you ever have your car dynoed? ever take it to the track? it seems like your setup is similar to mine. the Procomp heads that I have are castings for the Edelbrock Preform RPM or the Victor (can't remember), your cam and carb are kinda similar too.

kalli

unfortunately not. No tracks here, I would have to go to England, maybe happening next year. I want to bring it to a dynoshop, just have to replace my driveshaft as I have vibrations at 80mph+. not good for dyno. I hope to have the driveshaft in a month (a racing croud in UK will make one for me and balance it up). I plan to go to a dyno here in Ireland (finally found one). Hopefully February. Just to iron out the mixture/ignition. I don't think I'll get more than 10% from it, but just to make sure I'm not 'too far' and stuff. I don't k now if they have any experience with carbureted cars (i just guess not). But I'll bring a set of jets with me, so that shouldn't be a problem

My butt-o-meter tells me somewhere above the 250rear wheel mark. if I get 300rwtq at dyno session I would be delighted.
I sometimes use dynolicios (iphone) to measure. not accurate, but gives you an idea if something went better or worse. The last run I did (my best so far) said:
60' 2.28s @31.4mph and
330' 5.82s@66mph
with ~240HP at rear wheels. those values are actually lucky as they are just at the shift point I think. It's obvios that the 60' is the **** end in 1st gear and 330' at the very very end of 2nd. I shift way too slow :-)

I think those are great values already. but as said I stopped at 70mph to avoid vibration.

as for your engine, if the heads are modeled after the victors (which are rather higher rpm heads) and the cam is in 6200 range. do you have any information on what the 'safe rpm limit' would be on your engine? mayeb with the right tune you can pull it way past the 6000 mark which obviously would result in a higher HP value so to say. so for that you're not too far off from what I am reading if I can trust what that thing is saying.
As 67m302 said: take it to a track, this is the only way to find out how quick it is

5'Oclocksomewhere

Dyno numbers are for yuppies. I like the quote above.. who cares how much HP it has, it's about how FAST it will go!

zmetalmilitia

That is brutal to watch. I was thinking, oops, he pushed it a bit to hard.

tx65coupe

I didn't see it mentioned but the adverstised numbers for your engine are flywheel/crank power, not rear wheel power.

kalli

ya, very true, but he mentioned it in the post somewhere that he'd expect 280+ RWHP from the advertised flywheel HP.

tx65coupe

Yeah, it should have close to 300 at the wheels.