hightower2011

Gosh, that does not do your mustang the justice it deserves! Even undercoating on that surface could look bad, I suggest painting it body color or flat black.

zmetalmilitia

Yeah, that's the direction I'm taking. Need to order the stuff needed. Anyone know exactly which stuff I should use to smooth this out? Needing something that adheres good to fiberglass and can be primered and painted, withstand the heat of the engine, etc.

I have the sanding stuff, just need the filler/smoothing material.

hightower2011

I'm wondering the same thing, regular filler wouldn't work with the engine heat would it? Or would that not be an issue after primer and paint?

JMD

Give the hood a good sanding with 80 to even things up, prep the surface, and to get the loose "hair" off, then a good thick coat of feather fill, followed by an 80 sanding, another good thick coat of featherfill, another 80 sanding, another good coat of featherfill sanded to 220 should make the surface ready for a prime coat sanded to 400.

Featherfill would be ok for the final prime but a good 2K will be better.

The hood is pretty rough so you might need one more coat at an 80 sand to really get it nice.

Oh yea, before doing ANYTHING, start off with a good prep cleaner to get any mold release agent that might have found it's way to the bottom of the hood.

For those who don't know, Featherfill is pretty much a sprayable bondo that is MADE FOR FIBERGLASS.

A little time spent here will allow you to do anything to the hood you want.

zmetalmilitia

Sweet, thanks JMD. Like I said, once it warms up here in CO, I'll be starting this fun project of, uhmm, yeah sanding.

64.5stanger

You could use duraglass for the pits.

NoReins

I have been pleased with Everglass.

JMD

It is hard to tell from photo's but IMO filler won't be needed at all if enough Featherfill is used, it is pretty much amazing **** as far as I am concerned.

If filler has to be used the bottom of that hood might turn into a lot of work.

Dura-glass is good stuff that will work well on the bottom of the hood but it is a bitch to sand (and therefore harder to get really straight) and will cost you some time.

I haven't used Everglass so I have no opinion other than I know Featherfill sands super easy.

Engine heat really wont affect filler, dura-glass or featherfill it at all.

zmetalmilitia

I want to avoid this turning into a *itch project. I am thinking of using a material like featherfill. There isn't mush filling, more of a smoothing/leveling to get it smooth. There is some filling required because it is a rough fiberglass surface. It is the typical unfinished fiberglass surface. Most know this surface if anyone has dealt with fiberglass. There isn't any unusual deep areas, just the standard rough finish.

I'm thinking of sanding the surface down, prepping, then applying this featherfill stuff, sanding more, reapplying until it is smooth, primering, then painting. Is this the proper method?

It sounds like featherfill is the simplest and easiest way to go that will give me quality results.

I have used rage body filler. Is this similar to any other mentioned above? Featherfill, duraglass, everglass.

I'm not going to use this for fiberglass, but I want to compare this to something so I can know what to expect.

I have found some featherfill for $65 a gallon. Do you want to spray this stuff or can you apply it like normal body filler? And there is G2 or buff, which one is best to use?

JMD

The G2 is a better product, it sands pretty much like RAGE but probably a little easier. It is a a spray on polyester filler (sprayable body filler) that sets up QUICK with zero shrinkage. I have used it on fiberglaas repairs and even some "hurry up" metal repairs.

This is for sure a spray on product, but I suppose it could be applied witha brush but you would need to work fast. I know in regular temps it is hard to get a quart mixed and sprayed before it starts setting up.

The down side of this stuff is that it sets up quick (clean-up sucks) and it is hard on paint guns. the upside is fast filling, super heavy builds are possible and it is ready for sanding in about an hour no matter how thick you lay it up. (might take longer in the cold)

With the hood off and laying on it's top the product will flow down into the low spots between the fibers etc. and do a lot of the leveling on it's own. IMO with a good scratch and properly applied it will become a peramnant part of your hood. You will NEED to sand the hood well in order to "break" the cured resin open to insure a perfect bond.

The best thing to compare it to is primer, the stuff sprays and sands like good primer.

If you use it for this you won't be disapointed.