1967 289 engine rebuild advice
12-27-2010, 10:50 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Missouri
Posts: 25
1967 289 engine rebuild advice
Okay i am a new kid on here trying to figure things out. I have a 1967 musang 289 all original except paint and i want to rebuild the 289. This is for my graduation present. I have recently found out that my cam is worn and i have a flat spot ... plus the 2 barrel carb is abut shot. I already have an edelbrock performer intake. I plan on putting in edelbrock stuff along with the overhaul kit. I will put and edelbrock performer plus cam and lifters. Also a 500 cfm carb... is this a good choice. I am going to have the heads redone but they will be back to stock because of money and i cant afford new ones. Also i hooker headers will be going on. If anyone could help and give me inputs on this idea it would be greatly appreciated!
I want to keep it just a little stock with a little more pep. So the edelbrock cam from what i have led does that.
I want to keep it just a little stock with a little more pep. So the edelbrock cam from what i have led does that.
12-28-2010, 06:26 AM
#2
6th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 5,232
Fella near here did a 67 289 with few mods, got 321 hp on the dyno.
Edelbrock Performer Plus intake
Edelbrock 600 cfm carb
289HP air cleaner
C9OZ-6250-C hydraulic HiPo camshaft
Stock heads, with
-screw in studs
-port-matched to the headers
Stock distributor advance curved to BOSS 302 specs
That's it. Otherwise stone-stock. A real low-buck screamer. He even did the porting himself. Well, I did one, and he did the other seven to match it. Took maybe 2-3 hours. I can do it in 2.
Here's how:
289/302 Cylinder Head Port Matching
In your position I'd use 289HP exhaust manifolds rather than headers. You lose a little top end, but gain a setup a lot easier to live with.
Edelbrock Performer Plus intake
Edelbrock 600 cfm carb
289HP air cleaner
C9OZ-6250-C hydraulic HiPo camshaft
Stock heads, with
-screw in studs
-port-matched to the headers
Stock distributor advance curved to BOSS 302 specs
That's it. Otherwise stone-stock. A real low-buck screamer. He even did the porting himself. Well, I did one, and he did the other seven to match it. Took maybe 2-3 hours. I can do it in 2.
Here's how:
289/302 Cylinder Head Port Matching
In your position I'd use 289HP exhaust manifolds rather than headers. You lose a little top end, but gain a setup a lot easier to live with.
Last edited by 2+2GT; 12-28-2010 at 06:31 AM.
12-28-2010, 08:05 PM
#5
6th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 5,232
Unless you do the port-matching though, most of it's a waste of time and money.
12-28-2010, 11:49 PM
#6
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location:
Posts: 1,168
Fella near here did a 67 289 with few mods, got 321 hp on the dyno.
Edelbrock Performer Plus intake
Edelbrock 600 cfm carb
289HP air cleaner
C9OZ-6250-C hydraulic HiPo camshaft
Stock heads, with
-screw in studs
-port-matched to the headers
Stock distributor advance curved to BOSS 302 specs
That's it. Otherwise stone-stock. A real low-buck screamer. He even did the porting himself. Well, I did one, and he did the other seven to match it. Took maybe 2-3 hours. I can do it in 2.
Here's how:
289/302 Cylinder Head Port Matching
In your position I'd use 289HP exhaust manifolds rather than headers. You lose a little top end, but gain a setup a lot easier to live with.
Edelbrock Performer Plus intake
Edelbrock 600 cfm carb
289HP air cleaner
C9OZ-6250-C hydraulic HiPo camshaft
Stock heads, with
-screw in studs
-port-matched to the headers
Stock distributor advance curved to BOSS 302 specs
That's it. Otherwise stone-stock. A real low-buck screamer. He even did the porting himself. Well, I did one, and he did the other seven to match it. Took maybe 2-3 hours. I can do it in 2.
Here's how:
289/302 Cylinder Head Port Matching
In your position I'd use 289HP exhaust manifolds rather than headers. You lose a little top end, but gain a setup a lot easier to live with.
Will those 289 HiPo reproduction manifolds do?
No need for performance heads?
And how much $ are we talking here?
Last edited by Galactusz; 12-29-2010 at 12:20 AM.
12-29-2010, 07:31 AM
#7
6th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 5,232
Will those 289 HiPo reproduction manifolds do?
Since the core support bungs are not there inside the repros, I'd say they were better than OEM.
No need for performance heads?
Depends on the "need". Straight out of the box, well-designed aftermarket heads will be superior. If your OEM heads are shot, by the time you get hardened seats, new valves, screw-in studs, guides, and port-matching, you're getting into "new head" territory, unless you can do at least some of the work yourself. But yeah, if the magazines ever showed how easy it is to dramatically improve stock heads, their advertisers would scream murder, because head sales would plummet.
At one time, magazines had a lot of "how to" articles. Now it's mostly "how to bolt-on our advertisers' stuff".
And how much $ are we talking here?
Under $300 for the manifolds. Even relatively cheap headers will cost $150 or more.
The head upgrade will cost you about $50 for the gaskets to R&R the heads, plus the time to do that, and 2-3 hours to clean up the exhaust ports. No need to do the intakes unless there is some nasty casting defect discovered.
Stock heads can be improved a LOT. Back in the day, Crane sold "Fireball" heads. They used replacement 289HP heads (later, they switched to 302 4V heads), and ported the daylights out of them, mostly on the exhaust side. The resulting hole was so big they required special "Fireball" headers.
Since the core support bungs are not there inside the repros, I'd say they were better than OEM.
No need for performance heads?
Depends on the "need". Straight out of the box, well-designed aftermarket heads will be superior. If your OEM heads are shot, by the time you get hardened seats, new valves, screw-in studs, guides, and port-matching, you're getting into "new head" territory, unless you can do at least some of the work yourself. But yeah, if the magazines ever showed how easy it is to dramatically improve stock heads, their advertisers would scream murder, because head sales would plummet.
At one time, magazines had a lot of "how to" articles. Now it's mostly "how to bolt-on our advertisers' stuff".
And how much $ are we talking here?
Under $300 for the manifolds. Even relatively cheap headers will cost $150 or more.
The head upgrade will cost you about $50 for the gaskets to R&R the heads, plus the time to do that, and 2-3 hours to clean up the exhaust ports. No need to do the intakes unless there is some nasty casting defect discovered.
Stock heads can be improved a LOT. Back in the day, Crane sold "Fireball" heads. They used replacement 289HP heads (later, they switched to 302 4V heads), and ported the daylights out of them, mostly on the exhaust side. The resulting hole was so big they required special "Fireball" headers.
Last edited by 2+2GT; 12-29-2010 at 07:37 AM.
12-29-2010, 08:29 AM
#8
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 5,896
I agree with 2+2GT.
Stick with the Ford cam, or a slightly more aggressive Comp Cams grind. I'm not a fan of Edelbrock's cam grinds. I've heard a lot of people complain about the Performer Plus being rather tame.
I'd rather spend $300 on hipo manifolds than $150 on crappy headers. The manifolds won't leak, will be quieter, will cut down on engine bay temp, and won't have clearance issues. If you get headers, get good ones that will fit properly and will actually last. FPA, Doug's, etc. The catch is that they're usually $600+.
Stick with the Ford cam, or a slightly more aggressive Comp Cams grind. I'm not a fan of Edelbrock's cam grinds. I've heard a lot of people complain about the Performer Plus being rather tame.
I'd rather spend $300 on hipo manifolds than $150 on crappy headers. The manifolds won't leak, will be quieter, will cut down on engine bay temp, and won't have clearance issues. If you get headers, get good ones that will fit properly and will actually last. FPA, Doug's, etc. The catch is that they're usually $600+.
12-29-2010, 08:46 AM
#9
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location:
Posts: 1,168
Will those 289 HiPo reproduction manifolds do?
Since the core support bungs are not there inside the repros, I'd say they were better than OEM.
No need for performance heads?
Depends on the "need". Straight out of the box, well-designed aftermarket heads will be superior. If your OEM heads are shot, by the time you get hardened seats, new valves, screw-in studs, guides, and port-matching, you're getting into "new head" territory, unless you can do at least some of the work yourself. But yeah, if the magazines ever showed how easy it is to dramatically improve stock heads, their advertisers would scream murder, because head sales would plummet.
At one time, magazines had a lot of "how to" articles. Now it's mostly "how to bolt-on our advertisers' stuff".
And how much $ are we talking here?
Under $300 for the manifolds. Even relatively cheap headers will cost $150 or more.
The head upgrade will cost you about $50 for the gaskets to R&R the heads, plus the time to do that, and 2-3 hours to clean up the exhaust ports. No need to do the intakes unless there is some nasty casting defect discovered.
Stock heads can be improved a LOT. Back in the day, Crane sold "Fireball" heads. They used replacement 289HP heads (later, they switched to 302 4V heads), and ported the daylights out of them, mostly on the exhaust side. The resulting hole was so big they required special "Fireball" headers.
Since the core support bungs are not there inside the repros, I'd say they were better than OEM.
No need for performance heads?
Depends on the "need". Straight out of the box, well-designed aftermarket heads will be superior. If your OEM heads are shot, by the time you get hardened seats, new valves, screw-in studs, guides, and port-matching, you're getting into "new head" territory, unless you can do at least some of the work yourself. But yeah, if the magazines ever showed how easy it is to dramatically improve stock heads, their advertisers would scream murder, because head sales would plummet.
At one time, magazines had a lot of "how to" articles. Now it's mostly "how to bolt-on our advertisers' stuff".
And how much $ are we talking here?
Under $300 for the manifolds. Even relatively cheap headers will cost $150 or more.
The head upgrade will cost you about $50 for the gaskets to R&R the heads, plus the time to do that, and 2-3 hours to clean up the exhaust ports. No need to do the intakes unless there is some nasty casting defect discovered.
Stock heads can be improved a LOT. Back in the day, Crane sold "Fireball" heads. They used replacement 289HP heads (later, they switched to 302 4V heads), and ported the daylights out of them, mostly on the exhaust side. The resulting hole was so big they required special "Fireball" headers.
12-29-2010, 08:47 AM
#10
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location:
Posts: 1,168
I agree with 2+2GT.
Stick with the Ford cam, or a slightly more aggressive Comp Cams grind. I'm not a fan of Edelbrock's cam grinds. I've heard a lot of people complain about the Performer Plus being rather tame.
I'd rather spend $300 on hipo manifolds than $150 on crappy headers. The manifolds won't leak, will be quieter, will cut down on engine bay temp, and won't have clearance issues. If you get headers, get good ones that will fit properly and will actually last. FPA, Doug's, etc. The catch is that they're usually $600+.
Stick with the Ford cam, or a slightly more aggressive Comp Cams grind. I'm not a fan of Edelbrock's cam grinds. I've heard a lot of people complain about the Performer Plus being rather tame.
I'd rather spend $300 on hipo manifolds than $150 on crappy headers. The manifolds won't leak, will be quieter, will cut down on engine bay temp, and won't have clearance issues. If you get headers, get good ones that will fit properly and will actually last. FPA, Doug's, etc. The catch is that they're usually $600+.
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