DIY toe
01-07-2011, 01:30 PM
#11
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 1,692
Once you get the 1/8" of toe-in, roll it back and forth to get it really straight, then check the centering of the steering wheel. If the wheel is cocked, move both adjusters the same amount until the steering wheel sits straight.
Probably not the best method, but I hate having a steering wheel off center when going down the road. This seems to work for me.
Probably not the best method, but I hate having a steering wheel off center when going down the road. This seems to work for me.
01-08-2011, 11:19 PM
#12
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: tn
Posts: 889
nba1341: that's the way I set mine. measured front and back. I am still not sure why people use a turntable?!
BUT yes, fully agreed. I was wondering the same thing. how can you be sure if you have a toe of 1/8" that it's actually both wheels toed in bu 1/16". how can you make sure steering box is centered. I have no answers to all that either
BUT yes, fully agreed. I was wondering the same thing. how can you be sure if you have a toe of 1/8" that it's actually both wheels toed in bu 1/16". how can you make sure steering box is centered. I have no answers to all that either
If you have a rack adjust both tie rod ends out same amount. Verify wheels turn full right and left w/o touching steering stops. Post alignment, pull steering wheel and center it. Can run center line string and mark center for future alignments so you don't have to pull steering wheel next time.
01-09-2011, 09:39 AM
#13
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Michigan
Posts: 516
The problem with using the steering weel to decide center is that you are expecting the steering wheel to be correct.
On my race cars I center it this way. Take measurements diagonally between the pitman arm and the idler arm. When those measurements are the same, then the linkage is squared. Clamp it in place with vice grips so it won't move. Now check to see if the steering wheel is centered. If not pull it and straighten it up.
Find the centerline of the car then run strings parrallel to it down each side of the car a foot or so away so you have room to work. Use good thin string that won't stretch, not yarn or twine. Measure from these strings to the leading and trailing edges of the front tire. This will tell you which tire is toed in/out. Split the desired toe between both sides.
Once its set this way I take down all the string and use toe plates and tape measures to verify. At this point if you have to adjust it make sure to roll the car backward and forward between each adjustment to pull any stress off the system. This is especially important if you're running wider tires.
If you have turntables use them, and you won't have to roll the car. To make cheap turntables, I use two pieces of .080 alum sheet about 12x12 with a little sand sprinkled between the sheets under each tire. Sprinkle a little sand on the shop floor, then a sheet of alum, a little more sand and then the 2nd sheet of alum. The sand lets the pieces of alum turn without binding. When done, just sweep up the bits of sand.
On my race cars I center it this way. Take measurements diagonally between the pitman arm and the idler arm. When those measurements are the same, then the linkage is squared. Clamp it in place with vice grips so it won't move. Now check to see if the steering wheel is centered. If not pull it and straighten it up.
Find the centerline of the car then run strings parrallel to it down each side of the car a foot or so away so you have room to work. Use good thin string that won't stretch, not yarn or twine. Measure from these strings to the leading and trailing edges of the front tire. This will tell you which tire is toed in/out. Split the desired toe between both sides.
Once its set this way I take down all the string and use toe plates and tape measures to verify. At this point if you have to adjust it make sure to roll the car backward and forward between each adjustment to pull any stress off the system. This is especially important if you're running wider tires.
If you have turntables use them, and you won't have to roll the car. To make cheap turntables, I use two pieces of .080 alum sheet about 12x12 with a little sand sprinkled between the sheets under each tire. Sprinkle a little sand on the shop floor, then a sheet of alum, a little more sand and then the 2nd sheet of alum. The sand lets the pieces of alum turn without binding. When done, just sweep up the bits of sand.
01-09-2011, 02:59 PM
#14
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: tn
Posts: 889
The problem with using the steering weel to decide center is that you are expecting the steering wheel to be correct.
On my race cars I center it this way. Take measurements diagonally between the pitman arm and the idler arm. When those measurements are the same, then the linkage is squared. Clamp it in place with vice grips so it won't move. Now check to see if the steering wheel is centered. If not pull it and straighten it up.
Find the centerline of the car then run strings parrallel to it down each side of the car a foot or so away so you have room to work. Use good thin string that won't stretch, not yarn or twine. Measure from these strings to the leading and trailing edges of the front tire. This will tell you which tire is toed in/out. Split the desired toe between both sides.
On my race cars I center it this way. Take measurements diagonally between the pitman arm and the idler arm. When those measurements are the same, then the linkage is squared. Clamp it in place with vice grips so it won't move. Now check to see if the steering wheel is centered. If not pull it and straighten it up.
Find the centerline of the car then run strings parrallel to it down each side of the car a foot or so away so you have room to work. Use good thin string that won't stretch, not yarn or twine. Measure from these strings to the leading and trailing edges of the front tire. This will tell you which tire is toed in/out. Split the desired toe between both sides.
My car drifts side to side on turn table if wheels are turned, suspension is settled, and when adjustments are made. If sting is mounted on the floor and your car drifts then probably not a bad idea to recheck string position before each toe measurement. Right?
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