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Homebuilt coilover system

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Old 01-21-2011, 08:04 AM   #41
mr_velocity
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Hey EZ, I noticed that the bolts holding the plates to the shock towers are stainless steels button head screws, did you know that stainless steel bolts are grade 2 at best? I would hate for the heads of the bolts to pop off.
Totallystainless.com sells Grade 8 ARP stainless steel bolts.
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Old 01-21-2011, 11:47 AM   #42
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Totallystainless.com sells Grade 8 ARP stainless steel bolts.
Sweet! Those will look better Than the gold ones in the engine bay.
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Old 01-26-2011, 03:27 PM   #43
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Little upadate...I finished putting everything together And got the car on the ground...ride height was a touch higher so I had to order one size smaller shock and springs.
These adjustable QA1s are sweet. you can reach in without jacking the car up and give the shock a couple clicks and make a huge difference in the stiffness of the ride. Im going to order a pair for the rear.
once I get these shocks in I can mount them up and head down to the alignment shop!
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Old 01-26-2011, 04:54 PM   #44
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With all the tunability you have. I'm surprised you don't DIY align.
Your shop must be cheap.
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Old 01-26-2011, 05:55 PM   #45
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I hope they

(a) know what they're doing with an older car with custom suspension parts

(b) will align to specs suited to those new parts and not just "put it somewhere in the green for OE". Your specs, if you've got a good idea where to start.


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Old 01-26-2011, 07:02 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by Norm Peterson View Post
I hope they

(a) know what they're doing with an older car with custom suspension parts

(b) will align to specs suited to those new parts and not just "put it somewhere in the green for OE". Your specs, if you've got a good idea where to start.


Norm
I paid for one a lifetime alignment at a local shop(idiots) for $30 extra. Ill be there helping with the alignment so almost the same as if I did it. I suppose I could do it myself with the wheels off and use a angle finder on the discs to find camber. Toe in is easy but what about caster?
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Old 01-26-2011, 10:51 PM   #47
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If you cleaned up verticle side of spindle, you can measure caster directly.

Otherwise you need a DIY turntable and a simple calculation.

Digital angle finder works nice on rotor.
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Old 01-26-2011, 10:55 PM   #48
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are you sure the vertical side of the of the spindle will give you the same angle as the measurement between ball joints?
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Old 01-26-2011, 11:02 PM   #49
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I have an alignment suggestion.

On my driver side spindle I can get a Caster reading directly on spindle arm using magnetic digital angle finder.

The passenger spindle is to rough to get a good caster reading.

If I ever have spindles out I will clean up the the flat verticle surface.

That way one can get an accurate caster reading from the spindle and an accurate camber reading from rotor while under car.
Easier to verify w/ spindle out of car. On your coilover may be able to verify w/ spindle on car?
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Old 01-27-2011, 12:10 PM   #50
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I suppose I could do it myself with the wheels off and use a angle finder on the discs to find camber. Toe in is easy but what about caster?
Camber and caster can be done with your angle finder, and both can be done directly off your wheels, assuming that they're not dinged and are reasonably true. I can see a bit of difficulty getting the suspension properly loaded while on jackstands so that the cambers that you then measure/set bears any resemblance to what the wheels will see when you're driving the car.

You have to do a little math to obtain a caster value. What you do is measure camber with the wheels turned some known angle, and then re-measure the camber with the wheels turned an equal amount the other way.

Caster = [some factor] x [the algebraic difference in the camber measurements]

That factor depends on the angle that you turned the wheels. Pretty closely, it's equal to 1 divided by two times the sine of the angle steered.

1.0 @ 30°
1.5 @ 20°
2.0 @ 14.5°

So if you steer the left front wheel to the left 20° and get +1.4° camber, then steer it 20° right and get -0.6° camber, your caster would be 1.5 x (1.4 - (-0.6)) = +3.0°. Since it is possible to have negative caster, I think you want to steer the left wheel left first, and steer the right wheel right first when doing that side to help keep things straight.

I have a write-up about DIY alignment if you're interested.


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Old 01-27-2011, 12:40 PM   #51
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Caster (deg) = (180 / 3.1415) * [(camber1 - camber2) / (turnangle1 - turnangle2)]

Shortcut for Caster w/ 20* turns:

Caster = 1.432 x (camber1 - camber2)



I used above equation and came up w/ factor of 1.43 w/ 20* turns.

Is the different factor of 1.5 vs 1.43 just rounding difference?
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Old 01-27-2011, 02:15 PM   #52
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There is a little rounding going on, and it's going to be extremely difficult in DIY practice to hit a sweep angle to within much less than ±0.5° anyway.

1.5 is the factor that the caster-camber gauges that are available through the circle track supply houses use with their (claimed) ±20° sweep.

The difference between 1.5 and 1.43 is less than 0.3° with a caster setting of around 6°, so it's not a huge factor. I'd pay more attention to making the two sides either identical or with achieving a specific caster split (right side more + than the left) to help keep the car from drifting to the right on crowned roads.


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Last edited by Norm Peterson; 01-29-2011 at 05:26 AM. Reason: sp
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Old 01-27-2011, 02:22 PM   #53
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Yes I believe its just rounded for ease of measurement. Im thinking of buying an alignment tool but Im getting a bit tired of working/welding/building/designing/ I really need to go for a drive and put a smile on my face.

If anybody wants to buy the shock mounts hit me up. They look much better TIG welded. Ill take more pictures. But probably $150 for the mounts w/mounting hardware and aluminum spacer only because its a full day of work for me.
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Old 01-27-2011, 04:54 PM   #54
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Amen on the driving. I know how it feels.

Few alignment pointers:

Verify turntable floats freely under load; old turntable may be worn out.
I settle suspension and jog wheels before collecting final data.
Verify final data is collected after everything is torqued; (very important).
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Old 01-28-2011, 11:21 PM   #55
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Thread of the month? Can you finish this thread with a video? Great work!
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Old 01-29-2011, 01:26 PM   #56
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sure! video of what though? LOL driving?
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Old 01-29-2011, 03:12 PM   #57
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Sure! Take a few good turns, out and back? I don’t know, your car looks sweet in pictures, I bet it looks "bad ***" in video. I guess it does not really fit the thread (being a suspension build) but you have done some great work and thought it would complement your efforts. Thanks for sharing. Where did you find cromolly Hex bar?
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Old 01-29-2011, 05:00 PM   #58
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chromoly hex bar I got off Amazon. You could parobably use a chromoly hex tie rod and drill for mounting holes. should still be plenty strong enough
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Old 02-01-2011, 03:50 PM   #59
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Anxiously waiting for your test drive report.
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Old 02-01-2011, 04:35 PM   #60
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Still playing with DIY alignment...LOL..got it pretty close though. taking it in tomorrow morning for a reputable shop. Just want to see how close I got it. First drive was awesome. Springs were a bit too soft even when stiffening the adjustment on the shock. Taking the 350's off today and putting on 450's. Should be just right! On a good note the whole system is very quiet. No more bushings no more bindings.
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Old 02-01-2011, 04:35 PM
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