Homebuilt coilover system
#1
Homebuilt coilover system *pics*
So I started on that coilover system I mentioned a couple of weeks ago.
Upper control arm is from a circletrack company. It has all the right dimensions. Used 5/8 heim joints. Just waiting for the chromoly hex bar to show up so I can make the mount. Including ball joints Ill have about $150 for the pair. Sure beat $450 LOL
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The upper coilover will mount underneath the shock tower removing any chance of failure. It will apply the pressure the same place the stock spring did.
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
The lower mount will is made out of 3/8 steel and ties in the adjustable heim joint strut bar that I made as well. Strut bar is 5/8 clevis and 5/8 heim joint. About $120 for the pair
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
I ordered the coilovers today. I didnt want to weld it all together until I can mock it up a bit first to make sure where the mounts will locate
Upper control arm is from a circletrack company. It has all the right dimensions. Used 5/8 heim joints. Just waiting for the chromoly hex bar to show up so I can make the mount. Including ball joints Ill have about $150 for the pair. Sure beat $450 LOL
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
The upper coilover will mount underneath the shock tower removing any chance of failure. It will apply the pressure the same place the stock spring did.
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
The lower mount will is made out of 3/8 steel and ties in the adjustable heim joint strut bar that I made as well. Strut bar is 5/8 clevis and 5/8 heim joint. About $120 for the pair
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
I ordered the coilovers today. I didnt want to weld it all together until I can mock it up a bit first to make sure where the mounts will locate
Last edited by eZ; 01-12-2011 at 05:43 PM.
#2
Lower arm is moog...seems really stout but I will box it in when I install the opentracker roller bearing. The coilover shocks are bearing as well. Should be a nice setup with everything being roller.
#4
How the heck are you able do take on such projects! I mean that as a compliment. With all the geometry that goes into a suspension system PLUS the strength that each component must have, I don't know if I would ever try piecing/fabricating something together myself. I am also interested to see your progress, but more importantly how it all performs once its complete!
#6
How the heck are you able do take on such projects! I mean that as a compliment. With all the geometry that goes into a suspension system PLUS the strength that each component must have, I don't know if I would ever try piecing/fabricating something together myself. I am also interested to see your progress, but more importantly how it all performs once its complete!
#7
I have an alignment suggestion.
On my driver side spindle I can get a Caster reading directly on spindle arm using magnetic digital angle finder.
The passenger spindle is to rough to get a good caster reading.
If I ever have spindles out I will clean up the the flat verticle surface.
That way one can get an accurate caster reading from the spindle and an accurate camber reading from rotor while under car.
On my driver side spindle I can get a Caster reading directly on spindle arm using magnetic digital angle finder.
The passenger spindle is to rough to get a good caster reading.
If I ever have spindles out I will clean up the the flat verticle surface.
That way one can get an accurate caster reading from the spindle and an accurate camber reading from rotor while under car.
#8
Curious, you considering boxing in the lower control arm also? For as flimsy as the LCA is, I wonder why this isn't a more common practice. BTW, what welder are you using? My 110V Miller will do 3/8" but it's pushing the limit, but you're probably using 220V, right?
#9
Yea ill be using 220v at my neighbors shop. Boxing in the lower control arms, absolutley. Just working on mock up for right now then I will box them in when I install the roller bearings.