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MustangFTW 67 resto thread.

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Old 06-28-2011, 05:03 PM   #121
hightower2011
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That sucks. You might actually want to sell it then. Pics will help though.
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Old 06-28-2011, 05:38 PM   #122
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will do once the engine is out, ill get some preliminary pics up now though
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Old 06-28-2011, 05:47 PM   #123
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Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

also the front end where the inner bumper bracket attaches is rusted through, barely holding the bracket.
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Old 07-09-2011, 12:07 PM   #124
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got the engine and tranny out yesterday, pics later today.

holy dirty engine and tranny batman! it was caked in ~1/2 in of grime and pebbles from the roads. used a whole bottle of engine degreaser and carb cleaner(works pretty good on this stuff) getting it acceptable, still not shiny though.

got it out with 2 chains and a normal car jack. after in done with the tranny cleaning ill unbolt it from the engine and mount the engine to the engine stand, get it cleaned up, replace all the gaskets, and port the heads. then paint it Ford blue.

i ripped/twisted one of my tranny cooling(?) copper tubes when removing it from the radiator, will fab somethin up later.

after i removed the engine my car looks lifted about 4-5 inches lol.
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Old 07-10-2011, 06:45 AM   #125
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you did all that work without realizing how bad that was? you didnt need the engine out to see that. what makes you thing thats going to be more work than what you have already done? I say fix it
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Old 07-10-2011, 08:20 AM   #126
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I was checking out how badly rusted my frame is, doesn't look fixable without a ton of work and money, even compared to some rust buckets I've seen as projects here its bad, car probably has 2-3 years before its done
Paint came out really good!
But.....
You mean to tell me you never noticed this even after you posted pics of how bad that frame was in the front that you posted about???

Good luck with that one, now's not the time to dive into the frame when you got a nice fresh painted car. You just made things a little harder for your self and the next person to get the car.

You should have taken care of all those issues before you even started cleaning the motor up and other things first.
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Old 07-10-2011, 02:16 PM   #127
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its mostly the frame rails that are rusty as hell, ill fix as much as i can. the paint job effects nothing as the body rust was taken care of. im not worried about losing money if i plan to sell, whats a couple thousand to have a cool car and learn a bunch about it at the same time.

taking the engine out was mostly for fun, and partly to fix a couple leaks around the oil pan and transmission pan, and to port the heads, again for fun/leaning experience.
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Old 07-11-2011, 05:36 PM   #128
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its mostly the frame rails that are rusty as hell, ill fix as much as i can. the paint job effects nothing as the body rust was taken care of.
But now you'll have to be 1000X more careful of damaging the new paint job while fixing the frame rust that could/should have been fixed before even doing the paint without worry of it's damage.
By the looks you may have to take care of floor work as well, which means the interior has to come out, thus risking paint damage getting things in and out. It should come out anyway to fix the frame rails so you don't set the car on fire while welding, see where I'm getting at?
It would have made things a lot easier to do had you done the frame first.
Just sayin'.

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Old 07-17-2011, 05:48 PM   #129
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so being a genius i forgot to mark how my distributor was set. so now ive done a little reading and it seems the steps to reinstall distributor is:

1. crank engine until piston #1 is TDC (i have heads off so i just crank till piston 1 is at top?)
2. point clip on dist. toward plug 1 and insert into opening (i dont get this step).
3. attempt to start engine, check timing with timing gun.

is this right? and do i crank the engine clock wise or counter clockwise?
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Old 07-19-2011, 01:38 AM   #130
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yeh i made a few mistakes so i needed more sanding and thus more coats to hide stuff

do you guys think that since my tail light trim is black and i have a black vinyl roof should the side "scoops" also be painted black?
No way, that looks terrible. I have seen those done in chrome too. It never looks right. Those along with the turn signal hood vents have to be body color. The only exception is if the hood has the dual stripes from the vents to the cowl.
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Old 07-19-2011, 01:41 AM   #131
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Man that sucks that the frame rails are so bad. I say fix it. I'm with the other comments though about fixing that before paint so you don't have to worry about the paint getting damaged.
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Old 07-19-2011, 04:28 AM   #132
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i guess i would have to see it in person but if their is weldable steel on that front rail could just cut out and weld some steel in. Then that frame section that goes under the floor their is only 30 dollars or so. Too hard for me to see how bad it is by the pictures.
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Old 07-19-2011, 01:22 PM   #133
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yeah, i decided im going to use a angle grinder with a steel brush on it and remove the surface rust since the floor pans are good, them cut out parts of the frame rail and patch it. theres just a couple areas, then im going weld the frame rail back onto the floor pan, it was coming off a bit. this should be done in the next 2 weeks.
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Old 07-25-2011, 06:40 PM   #134
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so it seems when my dad attempted to remove the broken bolt from the block he drilled it offcenter pretty bad. took it to a shop and they wanted to 500 bucks to strip the block tap it, put insert, change piston rings and clean all of it, he claims it needs to be completely cleaned to do it.

now there is a 95 mustang 5.0 convertable that was vandalized and he is parting it out, the engine as 75k miles on it an is all there.
i could probably get the engine for 150-200$ what will i need to make this work with my 67 with a c4? i know ill need a 50oz balance. i want it to be carbed.

i will also call around see if i could get a cheaper quote.
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Old 07-27-2011, 11:15 AM   #135
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got my block back today, i tried turning the engine to get it to TDC but it seems to hit a wall halfway there, the second piston is at the top and the first is all te way at the bottom, is it just hard to turn further or is there something i have to do?
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Old 07-27-2011, 11:56 AM   #136
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nevermind, i have it on an engine stand so its interfering with the flywheel.
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Old 07-27-2011, 11:56 AM
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